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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 1437 miles on one tank and still going

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) transmision woes

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haha. . yeah I don't fuel up in Temecula EVER! Fuel around there is usually 10 to 15 cents higher than San Marcos. I work in Carlsbad, so I fuel up in the morning on the way to work. I've been waiting for fuel to drop to fill the big tank up.
 
Really, that much cheaper in San Marcos ? The best in Temecula we've seen is at the AMPM or Shell at the Hwy 79 exit on the I-15.



Are you going to post pics of your tank set up ? I have a goosneck connection in my bed - how far back does you tank go ? Curious about overall dimensions. I did research a while ago on tanks - they're not cheap to find or install - probably they'd be half of what they are if not for regs and liability issues that affect their manufacture..... take care



David B.
 
Yeah, that's why I'm thinking of just making one. About 1 foot deep, 16" high and across the length of the bed. I'm guessing about $50-100 worth of materials.



I'm just trying to figure how to connect it to the stock tank. I'd like to just run a smallish hose (1/2" or so) down to the tank and put a valve of some kind so I can open it if I need to. Keep the tank in the bed as a reserve tank so to speak.
 
I got my 90 gallon tank when I was going to Alaska a lot, it cost $300. 00 then. I could drive from Tok, Alaska to Dawson Creek, Alberta non stop, saved a lot on fuel cost and on time. I have goose neck and fith wheel hookup, no problem, tank comes right up to the rail on the pickup bed and back about 2. 5 feet have not measured.

I have not seen a decrease in fuel mileage with the tank full, the Dodge Cummins does not even notice the wieght, the tank has baffles but sometimes I can feel it sloshing at a stop.

It saves me a lot of money on fuel as I can fuel when the price dips now, I am not running long distance, I am now teaching at a local Community College.

I am also looking at doing some biodiesel, thought I could do 35 gallon batches and dump it in the small tank and blend it into the big tank.

So, I think I will keep the tank, it does not owe me anything.
 
I bought a kit for mine, it tees into the filler neck for my stock tank, and has a floater valve. I also have a manual valve to shut off in emergencies or when I don't want the back tank filling the stock one. I'll get some pictures this weekend, I need to wash my truck first though... It's a tad messy right now.
 
I'm running a 40 gal under my tool box and got my valve set up from Northern Tool for about 70 bucks, tank was free from a buddy that works at a recycling plant. Someone bent the fill inlet and trashed it. Lucky me.

It came in real handy on a recent run, and I do mean run, from LA to Nashville and back, pulling the toy hauler, in 4 days with one day in Nashville to load up all my junk in storage (1,000 miles a day x 4, 4. 5 stops on the return). About 11k lbs going and 16. 5 lbs returning. I didn't use it heading east as the prices dropped at every stop but coming west it was nice to load up and not have to stop.

I do need to contact the company that makes the valve/tee as it is much smaller diameter than the fuel inlet hose. I had to use some smaller dia. hose the make up the difference for a short term fix for the trip. I cut pieces and put them on the valve/tee and then slid that into the inlet hose and clamped it. It leaks a little while filling. i think it was just packaged/labeled wrong.

I've become friends with the owner of my local fill spot and he let's me know when he's going to be raising his price or when it's going to drop and I fill or not fill the aux based on timing.

I love my CTD!
 
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Yes more info about those valves would be appreciated!



Does anyone have an idea how to place baffles in a tank if I would make one?
 
Nate said:
Yes more info about those valves would be appreciated!



Does anyone have an idea how to place baffles in a tank if I would make one?



If I was going to build one like your thinking, I'd just make the box like you are planning, then every 4'' or so put a plate in with holes along the bottom, lets say 1/4'' in size and an inch appart do that up 2'' up from the bottom. Then as you go up spread them out to 6'' appart, and again lets say 2'' from the top and up to the top go back to the one inch appart. Lots of holes, but it would cut the sloshing down quite a bit. I'd immagine you could use bigger holes if you wanted.



I'm no engineer, but I would think that would work.



Josh
 
To run an in bed fuel tank, DOT states the tank has to have a 'flip over valve' in the filler neck. To prevent spillage in case of a collision and resultant inverted position of vehicles involved in a major traffic accident.



Be careful with 200 or more gallons in the front of the bed. 200 gallons will bend the Dodge frame rails right where the cab and bed meet. Not a 200 gallon in bed tank, a COMBINATION of 200 in the auxillary AND the stock tank. FWIW.
 
I was planning on using a filler neck I got from a Jeep, just welding it to the top of the tank. I haven't done the math, but I'm planning on the tank being maybe 50 gallons. (BTW anyone know how to take volume and convert it to gallons?)



Now to tie into the stock system, can I get some info on the best way to do that? I know a few people posted what they used, but a part number, picture, or explanation would help me out. Something simple and cheap would be the best way. I was thinking of just "T" ing off the stock lines and tying into the aux tank. Just would need to come up with a valving system.



Also is there a way to tie into the factory fuel gauge? I might just put a dipstick or sight tube if it's too much trouble.



I think I'm going to Can X the stacks idea and just put the fuel tank there.
 
Well I woke up at around 4 AM and couldn't sleep, so I did some reasearch...



This is the Northern Hydraulics kit, which I'm not sure is road legal?

I haven't found clear info saying yes or no.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200315501_200315501#productinfo



This is another way of doing it:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/faq/faq.php?display=faq&nr=167&catnr=10&prog=1&lang=en





I like doing something like that because it's cheap and it works without fancy extras.
 
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ThrottleJockey said:
To run an in bed fuel tank, DOT states the tank has to have a 'flip over valve' in the filler neck. To prevent spillage in case of a collision and resultant inverted position of vehicles involved in a major traffic accident.



Be careful with 200 or more gallons in the front of the bed. 200 gallons will bend the Dodge frame rails right where the cab and bed meet. Not a 200 gallon in bed tank, a COMBINATION of 200 in the auxillary AND the stock tank. FWIW.



Whoops! So filling the entire bed with water could cause an issue? :--)



Josh
 
Nate said:
Well I woke up at around 4 AM and couldn't sleep, so I did some reasearch...



This is the Northern Hydraulics kit, which I'm not sure is road legal?

I haven't found clear info saying yes or no.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200315501_200315501#productinfo



This is another way of doing it:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/faq/faq.php?display=faq&nr=167&catnr=10&prog=1&lang=en





I like doing something like that because it's cheap and it works without fancy extras.





That's the kit I bought. The northern tool one. Very easy setup.
 
No problems with the main tank over flowing?



What makes the valve not overflow the tank, as they claim in their advertising??
 
Ok, I have a few questions, hopefully someone will be able to help me out.



Now the stock fuel system as I understand, there is a supply and return. The unused diesel goes back into the tank.



Now when we add in this gravity feed aux tank, where does the return fuel go? The main tank is full to the brim with more fuel in the other tank. I'm guessing it just forces it's way into the main tank?? Should I run the return into the aux tank?



Also can anyone confirm that my fill cap/tank won't leak if I do something like on the DTR link I posted? I'd rather not find out after I build the tank if possible.
 
The previous owner of my truck had a aux. tank w/ an inline pump on a line to a filler neck T. The pump was just controlled by a toggle switch he mounted below the steering column. I'm guessing he just flipped the switch when he was getting low and let it fill up. Dont know if the pump acted as a valve to prevent gravity feeding though :confused: . The tank was pulled out of the truck when I bought it, but he left the whole set-up in there. When I build my tank/buy a tank I will probably use the same setup.
 
Nate said:
No problems with the main tank over flowing?



What makes the valve not overflow the tank, as they claim in their advertising??





The only time I have ever had a problem with over flowing the tank was when I filled both tanks and parked the truck on a warm day. Expansion pushed fuel past the floater valve and it forced fuel out my cap. So now if I'm going to fill up and park, I just shut off my manual valve. Otherwise, I can open my cap with both tanks full and see no spillage.



It's basically a floater valve
 
Nate said:
Now when we add in this gravity feed aux tank, where does the return fuel go? The main tank is full to the brim with more fuel in the other tank. I'm guessing it just forces it's way into the main tank?? Should I run the return into the aux tank?

Back into the tank, It pulls out more than it puts back in, and the top tank just keeps the tank topped off. It's the same thing as running on "full" everywhere you go.



On a side note, I don't run with the back tank full all the time. I usually use it when I'm going on long trips and I see fuel really cheap somewhere. So I don't know if there are any long term problems with always running the stock tank full.
 
I've got a 55gal aux tank and tool box combo in the bed.

I tied it into the vent tube on the fill neck and use a 12volt pump to transfer. When the rear tank is full and has a good,clean filter, it will siphon through the fuel pump and overflow the front tank if left sitting. My solution was a shut-off valve.

I've had this exact tank setup in one F**D and three Dodges and it has done the same thing in every truck. I've learned not to leave the shut-off valve open when I'm around town.



Ian
 
JL penner said:
Nate said:
Now when we add in this gravity feed aux tank, where does the return fuel go? The main tank is full to the brim with more fuel in the other tank. I'm guessing it just forces it's way into the main tank?? Should I run the return into the aux tank?
Back into the tank, It pulls out more than it puts back in, and the top tank just keeps the tank topped off. It's the same thing as running on "full" everywhere you go.

It's not quite the same thing.



With a gravity-fed aux tank above the main tank, the main tank is, in effect, always "pressurized" (presuming that there is no closed valve between the two tanks).



A return line that dumps fuel into the "empty" space at the top of a tank is a bit different from one that tries to force fuel into the middle of a tank. The latter has to overcome the pressure that exists below the surface of the fluid. Whether that actually makes a real-world difference in this application...
 
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