14CM non-gated

[Ian]

Bob,

I've felt for quite some time that due to the delicate nature of the transmission, I wasn't working the engine very hard. When it will go to about 24 lb boost at WOT which is approc. 190 hp on a dyno a couple of years ago, 10 lb boost may be < 100 hp at the wheels.

Looks like I'm in need of at least a servicing/band adjustment, plus also maybe a new fan clutch as it's been some time since I last heard it engage.

Thanks.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Ok, I did a followup with a guy who knows these trannys pretty well

He suggests checking your trans. oil filter to see if it's plugged, and, as I mentioned, check to see you you have any problems with cooler lines, like crimps, collapsed rubber connections, etc.

It is likely in those areas that the problem is being created.

At least that's the first, and easiest area to go over.

If you have no luck there, then more digging is needed.



Bob.

 

[Ian]

Bob, found the solution to the high transmission temperature problems with my 1993 D250, comes in the form of 24 valves.

Have been thinking of making this change for some time, a truck I've known since it was brand new suddenly became available so made the move.

Cheers.

 

[AlK]

Ian,

Congratulations on your new ride. Gives us some details on the 24 valver.

---

Al

 

[RDBuck]

turbos

There seems to be some confusion-at least on my part-about the HX35 turbo. I've been told there is no performance advantage of an HX35 over an H1C turbo. The difference between the two is the center housing and related components design. The HX35 is actually an inferior design in order to be cheaper to produce. The H1 has a bolt-in thrust bearing and backplate, which makes the turbo more durable and easy to rebuild. Are you guys using a stock HX35 or a hybrid H1/HX40 with a 60 mm inducer compressor wheel? Am I misinformed about the HX35? The more I read the more I'm confused!