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16 cm or 12 cm housing? Actuator questions..

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Hello.

I'm running a big H1C turbo with a 18cm housing in a E350 towing a 8500# toyhauler.. While towing two years ago, I struggled shifting from 4th to 5th at 55 mph , 3.54 D60. If conditions were perfect, I could get into 5th. But if I had any unfavorable conditions, I just couldn't run in 5th very long and was lugging the engine.

I finally blew the head gasket going up a steep pass in Colorado, and started blowing allot of white smoke on startup after that. Failure might have been due to lugging in 5th.

So I barely made it home to Iowa as the head gasket failure pressurized the oil gallery and starved the rear mains of oil. My machinist was surprised I didn't spin a main bearing.

So fast forward to today. The motor is rebuilt and running great, but I need more towing power next time I try to tow my toy-hauler.

I considered smaller stock tires, but was told I need a smaller exhaust housing.
I have a 12 cm gated, and 16 cm non gated to choose from. Should I first try the 16 cm? Iv tempted because its so easy but only slightly smaller than my 18. Or do I jump straight to the 12 cm and custom fabricate the waste gate bracket as the stock bracket wont fit my ford van?

And if its the 12 cm, I need some suggestions on the actuator and how to use it as I don't have a HX35 actuator yet.

Thanks!

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1990 block, 1993 IC head, 90hp 5x.012" vco 155°, H1C turbo. VE pump, nv4500 3.54 D60 FF
 
Anyone trying to answer this needs to know EGT's and RPM.

At the time I had Post egt's around 900 occasionally creeping close to 1000, but that was at less than 3/4 throttle. I have a pre turbo probe now, but haven't run it.

I didn't have a tach, but rpm was calculated at 1829 rpm at 65 mph in 5th, if I got it there as most of the time I was lugging in 5th at 60 mph. Egt's skyrocketing if I pushed harder. I remember I had a tail wind at night on the plains of colorado, and it ran 75 mph great. Shifting occurred at 55-60 mph. I have a tinytach installed now, but haven't used it.
 
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I suggest a 12 cm housing. Wastegated of course and set it around 30-35. No higher.
Keep EGT's below 1200 pre-turbo.
You won't believe how different it runs with earlier boost.
 
I suggest a 12 cm housing. Wastegated of course and set it around 30-35. No higher.
Keep EGT's below 1200 pre-turbo.
You won't believe how different it runs with earlier boost.

That's what I keep hearing, and I'm trying to install the 12cm. But space limitations prevent me to use a perpendicular wastegate. I just learned I can adapt a parallel w.g. to my housing, but the clearance will be very close if it does fit.

I did build a J-hook deal, but I'm not optimistic. Can I use a HY35 actuator I was given and fabricate a mount and clock the lever? Whats the best actuator to keep the wg closed until 30 psi and maintain?

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If staying with the stock turbo, the 16 is good. 12 is OK if you haven't increased fueling much if any. With a little more fuel, I have heard good results with the BD Super B turbo. If you have a lot of miles or otherwise the stock turbo may be due for rebuilding, I would definitely consider the Super B.
 
Personally I always liked the 16cm as a great for being versatile, but I never ran at high altitudes.

I'm more interested in flat land performance, but the winds and hills are killers. My toyhauler has a 4" lift and its tall.

Your comment makes me want to throw the non gated 16 cm in , advance the VE 1/8" and be running soon.

If staying with the stock turbo, the 16 is good. 12 is OK if you haven't increased fueling much if any. With a little more fuel, I have heard good results with the BD Super B turbo. If you have a lot of miles or otherwise the stock turbo may be due for rebuilding, I would definitely consider the Super B.

Second one to recommend the 16.. How much more boost will see over my 18 cm? I see maybe 25 psi now, but still breaking the engine in.

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I would expect 3-5 psi more boost than the 18.5 cm2 you have now. Check you exhaust manifold carefully; they usually shrink lengthwise over time. Also, while apart, I hope you tabbed or otherwise contained the dowel pin inside the gear case, and loctited the bolts inside that hold the case to the block.
 
I would say if you have the 18 on there now a 16 would help you with just enough increse in power that it will give you the umph you need . do you have a fuel pin ?or any mod's to pump ?And show us a pic of the Rig. :)
 
I would expect 3-5 psi more boost than the 18.5 cm2 you have now. Check you exhaust manifold carefully; they usually shrink lengthwise over time. Also, while apart, I hope you tabbed or otherwise contained the dowel pin inside the gear case, and loctited the bolts inside that hold the case to the block.

Yes, the manifold IS 3 mm shorter roughly measured at the holes. Does that mean #1 and #6 ports don't aline perfectly, or more than that? The KDP is tabbed and I assume my machinist followed the fsm for the short block, as I assembled the remainder in the van.

Thanks for taking a guess at the boost increase. That combined with the three elbows I eliminated from my hot pipe, and bumping the timing 1/8" may give "the umph" I need.

I would say if you have the 18 on there now a 16 would help you with just enough increse in power that it will give you the umph you need . do you have a fuel pin ?or any mod's to pump ?And show us a pic of the Rig. :)

I'm unaware if anything has been done to the pump and its still on the mark. The injectors are bigger I believe and it feels like I have to much fuel for the air.

It feels like "if I could just draft this semi and get up to 75, I could hold it" which I did, but always got cut off or slowed by wind and hills and EGT's, never fuel. I know 4:10 gears would do it because I dont need to run as fast as it will go which is at least 90 mph, but decided to mess with my turbo after allot of recommendations.
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1990 block, 1993 IC head, Intercooled, 90hp 5x.012", big H1C turbo. VE pump

This is before I blew it up..

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We all missed something!!
You need a gov. spring installed that will let it run up to 3200! I bet it will not run past 2500 rpm now.
This is a great fix for those old engines.
 
We all missed something!!
You need a gov. spring installed that will let it run up to 3200! I bet it will not run past 2500 rpm now.
This is a great fix for those old engines.

You might be right and I will find out soon as I have a tinytach. But I did think the rpms sounded plenty high..

Very nice job . good looking Van . What made you want to do a ford Van ?

Vans just work better and are more secure and protected for me. I can full time in one.. They also tow better!
I didn't build it. I bought it at the drop of a hat when I found it, but should have changed out the head gasket.

The PO knew many talented people and this friend who built the van was one of them. He mentioned the VE was tweaked because he has had it rebuilt a few times. Along with turbo change outs.. The PO had it built, and used and abused it for years. Now it mine. His mechanic told me about once where it was towing a big boat and got stuck in 5th at a stop light. Made me cringe after the sale of course.
 
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Second one to recommend the 16.. How much more boost will see over my 18 cm? I see maybe 25 psi now, but still breaking the engine in.
I was seeing about 35 psi but that was with a non intercooled engine. Most of the time just cruising at 70/75 on the interstate it would show 5 to 10. What was nice it that it eliminated most of the turbo lag plus made the boost come in at lower rpm. Never came close to having an egt issue even being non I/C.
 
5th gear towing issues come more from low rpm in 5th than load.

Never run in 5th with rpm below 1800-2000 rpm.

Yea see I knew it just listening to the engine struggling. My gearing is to high if I'm at 1850 rpm at 65 mph in 5th. That's why it ran so good at 75 at night with tailwind.

I wish Id had found the illusive E350 D70 I need to justify dropping money into it. My D60FF isn't really worthy, but.. I may have no choice
 
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