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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 1693 code, Truck won't start.

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) anti defuel boxes?

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I also posted this on the 911 forum, but figured there's more "traffic" here. Tried to start the truck this morning. Cranks, but no start. Ran fine on Fri. evening when I shut it down. Threw a 1693 code. Batteries were a little tired. Had repalcements in the garage. Replaced them and cleaned everything. Reset the throttle. It cranks and acts little like it wants to catch, but no joy. FP guage reads 15+ PSI. I know a 1693 is a companion code, but what do I check now? TIA
 
Tmacc, I am not sure what to say, but I had a simular problem with my 2000. It stoped running, as I was pulling away from a light. All I got was a P1693 code on the odometer. :confused: Turned out it was the VP44, my shop guy plugged in his laptop and came up with a "Rotor Failure" code out of the Cummins ECM, $1400. 00 :{ & it Runs great now Oo. Moose00
 
Might be time to crack some injector lines and see how much fuel if any is there. Be careful as high pressure could be present. If you get dribbles while cranking it is most likely the Vp44.



Dave
 
:{ Thanks guys, but I found out that Autozone rents/loans OB-IIs, so I got one and it read a 1688 code which is a 'internal fuel injection pump controller failure' according to the shop manual. Weird for it to just die like that. In between running fine on Fri and dead this morning. At 191K, I guess I was lucky it lasted this long. Not that I ran it hard or anything. Hardly ever set the Comp above 3 or so. Out here in UT, I leave it on 1 since it smokes so bad at 6-7000' of elevation. Now to find a reman pump. Any suggestions?
 
Sorry to read your bad news. .



Mine basically failed the same way a couple months ago. Truck ran fine, pulled it into the back yard to change the fuel filter. Change went normal. Purged air from lines. Wouldnt start back up. Cracked injectors, only dribbled fuel. Went to autozone, rented scanner, pulled a 1688 code. Dead pump. Damn! Hell of a way for them to die, didnt even to get to abuse it. Guess its better that they fail at home, instead of out on the road. it went at 130k + 8% for bigger tires means about 140k. Just what Bob4x4 predicted (140k miles average). Hey, doo happens.



Got a new standard pump from Industrial Injection. Good customer service, their VP44 runs fine.
 
Dielselman24, Thanks but I've got one coming from Bob Wagner/Rip. It will be here today. BTW we just ran the Colorado R. thru the Grand Canyon on private trip w/ a bunch of rafters from Joplin area. Great bunch of guys to spend 3 weeks w/. Trip of a life time.



Shortshift, I'm down w/ the whole, if it has to die, let it die at home deal. If it had been a week earlier, We'd have been coming back from northern AZ and been just poop out of luck. There didn't appear to be a whole lota sources for repair on 89 in southern UT.



FG, he was out of stock and it had to come from CA. Took an extra day for the reman shop to send it. Guess they (reman shop) couldn't figure out that 'next day' doesn't mean 'ground ship'. According to Bob, these d*mn things are dying right and left. The shop here in SLC was 15 pumps behind when I called them on Mon.



I was lucky to get 191K out of it as it was, but it goes to show you that a fuel pressure gauge is invaluable. I know I've replaced the LP at least 7 times because I noticed a drop in fuel pressure. I've gotten as little as 12K out one and about a max of 30-35k out of others. I ran over a tree branch last summer and it pulled the connect off the lp and I got 0 psi in a hurry. The connector failed a few more time and I got 0 psi. I finely soldiered it. End of that problem, but it could have contributed to the IP dying. Last August, when we moved from MD to UT, we were pretty loaded. Prolly 4k over GCVW. (I know, I know, "if your ever in an accident... ... liability... blah, blah. We drove 65 the whole way. ) The truck was smoking pretty bad when we hit Park City and has since we got here. So, it may not have been just the elevation. Oh well, w/ the new pump we'll run it another 100k+ miles.
 
It's in. Took about 6 hrs from gettting tools out to cleaning up. Getting the gear off was prolly the most difficult part. That sucker was on there! The Sears puller that I bought was too long for clearance w/ the radiator. Fortunately, I had a 30 yr old one w/ a shorter bolt. Had to really crank on it. Lining the key way up was not as bad as I expected. After a few bumps of the starter to bleed the lines, it fired right up. I didn't re-tap the pump wire. It would have been a piece of cake w/ the pump out of the truck. I'm not sure I will. We'll have to see. It smokes so bad at 6-7K', I can't set it over 1 on the Comp anyway. The install instructions that Bob sent were very helpful. I had the shop manual open, but never looked at it. Here's the link. http://www.nwbombers.com/membersites/kent/vp44.html
 
tmacc said:
Weird for it to just die like that. In between running fine on Fri and dead this morning.



Not really, Mine did that with no warning and I have never tapped the wire :confused:

Luckily I was only 1/2 mile from home when it just shut off after leaving a stop sign, no warning what-so-ever.





tmacc said:
The Sears puller that I bought was too long for clearance w/ the radiator.



That is so funny :-laf , I'll bet we both have that same puller. I bought a brand new one just for this purpose at Sears too. I went to the the fastener warehouse to get a short grade 8 bolt to make mine work.
 
I bought a "special" VP-44 gear puller from II the same time I bought my spare VP-44 from them - damn good thing too, 2 months later (last weekend!) my original VP stated tossing P0216's and got swapped out. That simple little gear puller gadget yanked that gear off with no trouble at all - and the new pump/key lined up perfectly first try - took me about 6 hours too - with lots of extra engine cleaning in spots I'd not (HOPEFULLY!) be getting to for a long time - plus tapping the pump wire while I had the dern thing sitting on the bench!
 
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