180 Amp Altenator or 220 Amp Altenator?

[Flash1034]

So, what's the benefit to the dual alts? Does one stay off until the pcm detects that it's needed? Are there any drawbacks to having dual alternators?

Thanks,

Flash

 

[mpaulson]

So, what's the benefit to the dual alts? Does one stay off until the pcm detects that it's needed? Are there any drawbacks to having dual alternators?

Thanks,

Flash

I'd like to know as well on the side of if one is "idle" and the current isn't used at all when not required. As well I've always wondered what will happen if one fails, does the ECM just avoid it and the truck will function fine running on the other one? With a "check engine " light of course.
The only negatives that I can think of is 1-little more drag on the belt(less MPG) possibly, 2-extra up front cost, 3-twice as many to fail or have a bearing fail to take out your belt, 4-more potential for maintence cost once warrentee is done. Otherwise, at least you can do anything you want in the future as far as draw goes like hydraulic pumps, compressors, converters, lights to light up like a stadium etc.

 

[TJJEEPER]

One use for the additional power would be if you use a winch for anything. A good winch can draw 400 amps under full load. The dual alternators could conceivably keep up. Electric air compressors will draw a fair bit as well especially if you get a 100% duty cycle compressor.

If you're running a CC and it's been up fitted to a tow truck you need the extra power to run everything.

 

[jhenderson]

Ram is getting a bit more of the fire and rescue market around here. The dual alternators are a selling point for all the extra load of lights and equipment in the back of a rescue.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

It is also good that Ram offers the VSIM (vehicle system interface module) aka electronic monitoring module for easier, safer upfitting when building a rescue vehicle or ambulance.

 

[HorseMan-AR]

Ordered my 3500 with dual 220 alternators. Tow a fiver. Probably a waste, and it'll decrease my mpg a bit. Figured why not...as someone said, it did not cost that much more. When we travel with fiver, kiddo usually have DVD player plugged in and charging, wife plugs here ipad in, and has even plugged in a heating pad while traveling (into the electrical plug thing). I'll usually have my phone plugged in...just figured it couldn't hurt.

Might add a nice light bar when I get new truck in - guess I'll have the juice for whatever. Does the dual alternators necessarily hurt anything, except a bit more draw on engine?

 

[HorseMan-AR]

Ordered my 3500 with dual 220 alternators. Tow a fiver. Probably a waste, and it'll decrease my mpg a bit. Figured why not...as someone said, it did not cost that much more. When we travel with fiver, kiddo usually has DVD player plugged in and charging, wife plugs here ipad in, and has even plugged in a heating pad while traveling (into the electrical plug thing). I'll usually have my phone plugged in...just figured it couldn't hurt.

Might add a nice light bar when I get new truck in - guess I'll have the juice for whatever. Does the dual alternators necessarily hurt anything, except a bit more draw on engine?

 

[RVTRKN]

If I was buying a new 3500, I would order it with dual alternators, what do you care about MPG, if your pulling heavy. One thing I don't think was mentioned is, if your dry camping the ability to quickly charge your 5ver/TT batteries is a big plus. I had a situation in 08 with my older 5ver when I was dry camping at Phoenix International Speedway for a NASCAR race, I didn't realize my batteries were dried out from storing it in the desert heat.(lessen learned) I had to plug into the truck for power (no generator) and had to be careful not to drain my truck batteries.

 

[Mingoglia]

My current rig is a 2001 dually. I believe it has a 180 (or maybe it's a 160) amp alternator. I can say in the 14 years I've had it, I've never wished I had more power. I tow a pretty typical 30' trailer, with the typical lights. I often will wear down my truck batterie's running various 12' accessories (ie electric blankets when camping with the kids), and the alternator charges everything back up on the trip home. With all this being said, I see the 220 option as a bonus, even though I don't need it.

With all this being said, I'm pricing out a 2015 this week and will likely order the dual 220's for the same reason others have ordered it... just because I can, and just because it's a "cheap" option, so might as well. Unless I'm running an ambulance, there's absolutely no way I could ever even get close to needing this much power, but it's cheap. I do actually have a battery operated MIG welder I use on my Jeep on the trail and technically speaking with all this power I could technically weld without worrying about using up the batteries... but I've never done enough welding with two batteries to ever find myself without enough power to start my rig so again, this is a non-issue.

Like I said, I plan on ordering my truck so I will check this option. If my dealer finds the truck I'm looking for WITHOUT this option, but with all other options I'll happily buy it with whatever alternator option it has. I believe it's a non showstopper for 99% of us who own these things.

Mike

 

[Dutch & Di]

Dutch definitely wanted the 220 amp and are very happy with our decision. Hugs, Di

 

[slingshot383]

You could add a really nice 110V inverter and have all sorts of homey comforts!

 

[Mingoglia]

You could add a really nice 110V inverter and have all sorts of homey comforts!

Yeah, last night my mind was going a bit wild thinking of the possibilities. I was thinking on my current trailer, my A/C pulls about 11 amps when running. I plan on getting rid of the trailer and moving to a slide-in. I live in AZ and when I travel I typically leave my genset running and the A/C on going down the road on my travel trailer. This is so it is already cool for when I stop (in summer months). The issue with a slide-in is the gensets are typically propane, with a limited amount of run time. I was thinking if I had say a couple of Optima Yellow tops in the truck, and a couple in the slide-in I could link them up with a hefty power cord/plug. Then run a big inverter to run the A/C. I was thinking 11 amps at 120 is 110 amps at 12v. Let's call that number 150v since it's not 100% efficient.... I think you know where I'm going with this... if I had the dual alternators I could in theory have my truck power my A/C unit of a slide-in while going down the road, without having to use a genset.

Mike

 

[rynosback]

The usual charge rate pf an RV battery from a tow vehicle is below 10 amps because of the resistance of the long cable going back there and the small differential in voltage between the 2 points, Actually I rarely see over 5 amps. Increasing the current capacity of the Alternator won't make any difference. Increasing the voltage would but the regulator won't allow that as it is getting it's information from the truck batteries.

I agree. I did not order mine with the 220 alt. just the standard 180.

 

[Bill Stockard]

Yeah, last night my mind was going a bit wild thinking of the possibilities. I was thinking on my current trailer, my A/C pulls about 11 amps when running. I plan on getting rid of the trailer and moving to a slide-in. I live in AZ and when I travel I typically leave my genset running and the A/C on going down the road on my travel trailer. This is so it is already cool for when I stop (in summer months). The issue with a slide-in is the gensets are typically propane, with a limited amount of run time. I was thinking if I had say a couple of Optima Yellow tops in the truck, and a couple in the slide-in I could link them up with a hefty power cord/plug. Then run a big inverter to run the A/C. I was thinking 11 amps at 120 is 110 amps at 12v. Let's call that number 150v since it's not 100% efficient.... I think you know where I'm going with this... if I had the dual alternators I could in theory have my truck power my A/C unit of a slide-in while going down the road, without having to use a genset.

Mike

I use a much simpler and easier way to cool/heat my slide-in truck camper while traveling. I use my truck's HVAC!
My slide-in camper is equipped with a sliding pass through window and I have a sliding rear window in my truck. I use a Lance closed cell foam window boot made specifically for a Ram truck to seal between the truck and camper. With both windows open, the cool or warm air from the truck's HVAC keeps the camper comfortably cool/warm even on 100 degree days or when traveling in cold weather. An added benefit is the dry conditioned air from the truck cab dries the towels in the camper bathroom quickly while driving.

Bill

 

[Mingoglia]

I use a much simpler and easier way to cool/heat my slide-in truck camper while traveling. I use my truck's HVAC!
My slide-in camper is equipped with a sliding pass through window and I have a sliding rear window in my truck. I use a Lance closed cell foam window boot made specifically for a Ram truck to seal between the truck and camper. With both windows open, the cool or warm air from the truck's HVAC keeps the camper comfortably cool/warm even on 100 degree days or when traveling in cold weather. An added benefit is the dry conditioned air from the truck cab dries the towels in the camper bathroom quickly while driving.

Bill

That's interesting. I wouldn't think it would be enough, but then again the air blowing out of a vehicle is much colder than an RV A/C and does blow at a pretty good CFM that on long trips it would probably eventually get the temp down in the camper.... at least enough that you have a good head start in cooling down once you get to your destination.

 

[Bill Stockard]

That's interesting. I wouldn't think it would be enough, but then again the air blowing out of a vehicle is much colder than an RV A/C and does blow at a pretty good CFM that on long trips it would probably eventually get the temp down in the camper.... at least enough that you have a good head start in cooling down once you get to your destination.

It's comfortable enough to not have to start the generator and turn on the camper A/C when stopping for lunch when traveling during a 100+ degree day. It won't be cold enough to "hang meat", but it is comfortable considering the outside temperature. We start out in the morning with the A/C cooling the camper and it remains cool all day while traveling. With the truck setting stationary with the engine idling and the truck's A/C on the fresh air setting and high fan speed, I can feel cold air exiting the rear camper door. While driving down the highway at highway speed, there is enough air being forced through the truck's A/C system that we only run the A/C fan on the next "click" above low. Our truck's A/C system has quite a large cooling capacity running at highway speed.

Bill

 

[RVTRKN]

I found a 12VDC fan at the back window openning, if the glass is removed or in my case the slider was open, would cool down my Camper Shell going through 120*F, with the fresh air openned forcing air out with the shells cracked openned window. My daughter and her friend was cool the entire trip.

I would imagine if your going to convert the extra amperage the other alternator is outputting to 120VAC your going to have to run a seperate set of heavy wires back to the RV and that would include plugs heavy enough to hadle the amp draw.

On edit, running the fresh air setting on the truck, would put a possitive pressure in the cab forcing cool air into the Camper Shell, the fan was to help in improving the direction of the air, and the cracked openned window in the Camper Shell helped in pulling the air through it.

 

[JPM]

I am thinking that size of converter if they make one to handle it, would be expensive

The idea of using the truck AC works, you gotta get a window seal donut, Northstar sells them, and the donut can dislodge , , so you gotta keep an eye on it.

Yeah, last night my mind was going a bit wild thinking of the possibilities. I was thinking on my current trailer, my A/C pulls about 11 amps when running. I plan on getting rid of the trailer and moving to a slide-in. I live in AZ and when I travel I typically leave my genset running and the A/C on going down the road on my travel trailer. This is so it is already cool for when I stop (in summer months). The issue with a slide-in is the gensets are typically propane, with a limited amount of run time. I was thinking if I had say a couple of Optima Yellow tops in the truck, and a couple in the slide-in I could link them up with a hefty power cord/plug. Then run a big inverter to run the A/C. I was thinking 11 amps at 120 is 110 amps at 12v. Let's call that number 150v since it's not 100% efficient.... I think you know where I'm going with this... if I had the dual alternators I could in theory have my truck power my A/C unit of a slide-in while going down the road, without having to use a genset.

Mike

 

[jray]

This is an old thread, but I'll add to it. As others have pointed out the older Dodge/Rams had 134 amp alternators which provided more than enough power to service my needs. I recently ordered a new truck and although the 220 amp alternator was only a 100 dollar upgrade I decided against it. My rationale was if ever broken down in a remote area with alternator failure, it might be easier to locate a much more common 180 amp over a 220 amp.

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

My itsy bitsy 180 amp alternator has successfully towed our 18 k 5th wheel through all of the lower 48 States, and it hasn't let me down yet. 75K on the clock, and still going.