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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 180 v/s 215 pump when upgrading?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission american eagle fuel

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Super B, Dodgezilla or?

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Cooker, it really isn't important, because its NOT in the cam, its in the cut of the helix and the plunger itself. If you want to know the diffence in the cam go pull the bosch book out and find out instead of asking people you don't believe. If you want a reliable 500 HP and don't want to crank the timing too high then the 215 is the way to go. Air will be your next hurdle. The reason the 215 is better than the 180 is in the cut in the helix and the shape of the plunger. The 215 in a way advances itself even though it has no mechanical advance. That is why the 215 is the best, and that is why Piers' went through 20 different 13mm plungers to find the right one.
 
Reb. B said:
Cooker, it really isn't important, because its NOT in the cam, its in the cut of the helix and the plunger itself.



Reb, I agree the differences in the plunger (helix and "groove" in the top) is the main reason the 215 is so special.



It appears we are on the same page with this topic. I'm just still caught up why Piers says the 215 cam is different than the others? It's not a huge issue but it is just one of those things that irritates me because I was lead to believe it by what I consider to be a reputable source.
 
DBrickel said:
Don't want to hijack the thread but am considering 180 delivery valves for my 160 pump. Just wondering if it is worthwhile? I am running dd2s, 3000rpm springs and 10 plate now. My truck is a 95



Mine made 325hp on a dynojet with stock DVs, turbo, #4 plate, and 16. 5 degrees timing. I got more power with 191s but never dynoed. Now I can't say - still apart, the trans is starting to go, and I don't know how much "160" is left in my pump...
 
I was talking to one of the guys at PDR about getting a stupid pump. I asked if I should send the pump housing up minus the cam or any other parts not needed to save on shipping thinking that they use a diffrent cam in the build. I was told they needed it as a core or somthing like that. I wonder if they are just grinding the orginal cam.
 
Piers buys about 200 pumps at a time and builds the stupid pumps out of those. The original cam is reground, at least it was. The stupid pump is an awesome pump and really flows the big numbers if you can get a pump stand that has enough power to run it. The stupid pump puts it soo much fuel when you want it, its crazy, and the nice thing is that you can have 350-450 hp with no extra movement from the rack when the boost hits the afc, or if you are running a valve that cuts the air going to the afc, you can have 350-450 hp, then when you need the power just hit the switch and you're gone.
 
Jim Fulmer said:
It works because the rack will bottom out in the stock cap before it will hit the pin at 21mm of rack travel, but all of this is after you get the AFC working right to get it that far. The AFC is a good piece of equipment if you know how to manpulate it to work for you. Go to pump shop and get the cap, it goes on a Mack with a 7100.



The cams are different between the 180's and 215's, that's why a 215 makes a good race pump, all you have to do is add a plate, 4k's and 13mm's.



Jim





OK Jim, What's this all about... Can the cap be changed while the pump is on the truck? Where exactly is this cap?
 
yes it can be changed on the truck. You need two more washers to give you three more millimeters and you need longer threads or another set of threads to hold the rack bushing from falling out in front of the rack, which would turn off the truck. I think it takes like a 15/16" wrench to get it off in front of the pump and the case has a dent in it to give room for the removal.
 
Along time ago!



Surround yourself with allot of people and you will have knowledge, it comes in numbers! No one knows it all, but a group will know allot if shared... ... ..... they teach you that in the Navy!



Jim
 
A little off the main topic but here we go.

What about the P-pumps in the RVs? Mine has a 190hp pump and IIRC they offered some 230-240(?)hp P-pumps. Are those good pumps for high HP?
 
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