Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 180hp to a 215hp pump?

[snowracer69]

I was just wanting to know If It is worth it to find a 215 pump to switch with my 180hp pump, and how much more hp it would give me over my 180 pump. If so what is the deferens between the 913 pump and the 877 pump? Are those the only two 215hp pumps out there that are worth putting on my pickup? I think that a piers stupid pump is a little over kill for what I want. I’m looking for around 540-600hp with just #2. I just thought that it would be easer to get if I went to a 215 pump.



I have a 1997 with a DTT Trans, 4000gov. with 60lbs valve springs, DD3 injectors, #4 fuel plate Hx-40, afc spring kit, (Stage 2 Snow Performance Methanol System in the mail) and dyno’d the other day at 370hp. I know that 370 is low but I think that part of the problem is the way I dyno’d it. When I looked at the dyno sheet there was spikes on it, I dyno’d it with the O/D off. What is the right way to dyno a pickup? Do I need to get a mystery switch to dyno it the right way?



Thanks, Lucas

 

[chrleb1]

215 are a nicer pump. The piston in them is a different design and they are tyically capable of hp than a 180 pump. I'm sure a lot more people will chime in on this and help you out a great deal.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Unless you find a smokin deal it's not worth it, you could sell your pump to a 160 pump guy and get his in return then use it for a core on a race pump, a 215 new is about the same price as a race pump then you have to do all the mods to it. Don't be fooled by the race pump, it's very streetable! I drove from here to Canada and back with mine and 370 injectors (as always) and burned 8 tanks of fuel driving normal 70-75, the mileage was 19, 19, 20, 20, 20, 21, 22 and 20. You could still run a single in valet (or with the plate back) till you get Twins but you will blow it up in full fuel with that pump.



Jim

 

[esommer2500]

JMHO, but I would take care of the other areas you know you are going to need to address first, like air. You know to get the hp you are looking for you are going to need more turbo, and possibly some head work. A set of delivery valves wouldn't hurt either, maybe a stronger plate, more aggresive injectors... After you have done most everything else you are going to have to do anyway, and can't seem to find anymore fuel, then and only then would I think you might need to look at a totally different pump, whether it's stoopid or not is up to you.



Eric

 

[snowracer69]

Thanks, for all the help guys, I’ve been looking at new turbos for the last 2 months or so and doing research on them. I know that I don't want this Stock Hx-40/16 on there any more and don’t think that any 40 will be right for what I want. I think I’m going to go with the Bell USB turbo, have any of you had any experience with this turbo? I’m not ready to invest in a set of twins for now.



As for the DV I was thinking about getting a set from Enterprise Engines what kind would you think is right for me. I talked to them and they said that they had 3 different stages. I think they were 191, next step up what they are called I don't know but they flow more then 191 and are still a bosh part, and then Laser cut. I was thinking about going with the step above the 191. I will defiantly be getting a new turbo after the first of the year. I know that this stock 40 will not hold the boost that I’m going to be running with my new water/meth system. I’m already getting 42 pis out of the 40/16 and was told that the water/meth is going to add 4 or so more pounds of boost.



Oh ya I forgot to say that my timing is at 16 degrees and I have a valet switch from piers. I had piers set my timing last spring, but I think that it slipped. I can get in the pickup when it is cold and if I rev the motor up to say 1600+ it starts to cut out and blue/white smoke comes out the tale pipe. Do I need to have my timings set again? Again thanks for all the input.



Lucas

 

[scramblin]

Originally posted by snowracer69

I have a 1997 with a DTT Trans, 4000gov. with 60lbs valve springs, DD3 injectors, #4 fuel plate Hx-40, afc spring kit, (Stage 2 Snow Performance Methanol System in the mail) and dyno’d the other day at 370hp.



Thanks, Lucas

Is your plate in the middle? Was it 370 to the rear wheels? Oo.

 

[snowracer69]

No my plate is all the way to the front of the engine then backed off just a tad. Yes it was 370hp to the rear wheels.

 

[scramblin]

How much torque?

 

[esommer2500]

I know it's apples and oranges with dyno's but I put down ~360/860 at Schied's this fall with the setup in my profile. Seems you should be well above what I am at.



Eric

 

[snowracer69]

I don't remember what the torque was. I never got a print out from him. I plan on putting a different turbo, DV on there after the first, doing some adjustments and maybe going to a different dyno and see what I can get for numbers.

 

[Sled Puller]

Last year, 97, 180 pump, with EEPs cut D valves, Piers race plate, stock 370 injectors and a small set of twins, 40/H3, I made about 530hp at the rear wheels. 21 degrees timing.



I wouldn't waste time/money on a 215. Besides, when you need to go real big, you junk all the stuff inside the pump anyway.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

I wouldn't waste time/money on a 215. Besides, when you need to go real big, you junk all the stuff inside the pump anyway



Agreed here too, on a race pump they use the little pumps because all they need is a shell, everything else goes in the trash, run the 180 pump! My power was about like Gene's with my 180 pump except I added Water/Meth to it on top of that.



Jim

 

[JDailey]

I wouldn't waste your money. Find a good pump shop that knows P pumps and have them recal it and set your fuel and rpm where you want it. The pump shop I use charges about $350 labor if you R&R the pump yourself.

 

[Hammer]

I have seen quite a few 160hp pumps put near or over 500hp on a jet. One thing I was told along time ago is pump size does not matter and is a moot point once they are done by a quality pump man... ... Andy