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18k trailer in the mountains = 230 temps?

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Help with weight distributing hitch setup.

Pulling my cyclone loaded into the mountains today. Temp pushed the 230 mark. I get pretty nervous when I see anything over 210. Anyone else see temps this high (and higher) ?

Truck is a 03 with mild intake,exhaust, and smarty. 4:10 rear gears but slightly taller tires-245 70 19. 5's.

I run my smarty S06 on 4 (no timing). EGT's never go over 1000-taken at the elbow on my pac brake. I have a 6sp and drop to 5th and run about 50 on long grades. Maybe I need to run a little slower and run 4th ?

Tomorrow I go from 8000' pass's to 11,600. YIKES ! :eek:
 
Is there a history to compare your temps to?



Not really, truck has slowly evolved with changes here and there, add this-change that. Biggest change lately was going from flex a lite electric fans back to stock fan and shroud. Hated to do it but I would run up temps of 220 on big hills in the mid west with the electrics. stock one seems to be working good, sounds like it locks up around 220,which I thought was high ?
 
What rpms are you at when in 5th and at 50? If I was pulling an 18,000 trailer up steep hills, I wouldn't be afraid to run high rpms if I had to. These motors are built to handle full rpms all day long. It's actually much easier on them than lugging them unnecessarily. I would drop to 4th and rev her up! It'll be good for her!
 
I think MChrist is in the right frame of mind, my 07 with 22K GCVW climbing steep grades like the Grape Vine here in SoCal at 50 in 5th would be to low in RPM for my liking. I run 21-2300 RPM climbing, even if that means I have to be in 3rd. :eek:
 
Don't know about the '03, but on my 00 and the 05, never recall seeing over 210, even on a hard climb in the rockies with the fifth wheel. Both trucks were modded and running significant extra power.
 
What rpms are you at when in 5th and at 50? If I was pulling an 18,000 trailer up steep hills, I wouldn't be afraid to run high rpms if I had to. These motors are built to handle full rpms all day long. It's actually much easier on them than lugging them unnecessarily. I would drop to 4th and rev her up! It'll be good for her!



Been over the top of a few today (rockies) 10k-12k, ran 5th a lot running about 2500 rpm down to 1800. Rarely had to drop to 4th but when I did I was only doing about 45 mph and she was wound up. Good news is, never busted over 215 degrees even on a 7 mile pull to 11,600 with 7% grade. Of course the outside temps were only about 42 degrees when up high.

I know some people say they never see temps over 200 or 210, but until I started pulling heavy ( over 16,000), I didnt either. The extra weight and a trailer thats 13' (13'6" at the AC) really is what taxed the truck.

You guys are on the money, keep it over 2000 rpm and it chugs along without getting too hot. Oo.
 
With engine temps over 230 degrees, what were your EGTs?



As mentioned- (taken at the elbow on my pac brake) they never go over 1000. Which I have been told you can add about 1000 if you were at the manifold (pre turbo) . So that would mean 1100. does that sound correct ?

And I should be safe still, I believe.
 
I'm still not sure exactly where your EGT probe is located, but the difference between placement in the exhaust manifold and placement just after the turbo is usually around 300* when running her hard.
It may seem hard to believe the temp can drop 300* in just a few inches, but it does!
 
Is your radiator clean? In my own experience and reading years of TDR posts it is rare for a stock to mildly modified Cummins engine in a Dodge Ram platform to overheat.

My old '01, stock with the exception of Bosch RV275 injectors never heated much beyond 200*, even when EGT was 1300* on long grades unless the radiator was getting blocked by crud. A quick removal and pressure wash of the radiator fins always cured it.
 
Is your radiator clean? In my own experience and reading years of TDR posts it is rare for a stock to mildly modified Cummins engine in a Dodge Ram platform to overheat.



My old '01, stock with the exception of Bosch RV275 injectors never heated much beyond 200*, even when EGT was 1300* on long grades unless the radiator was getting blocked by crud. A quick removal and pressure wash of the radiator fins always cured it.



Good point. And I wouldn't recommend much more than a strong garden hose pressure. I once had to drive my 98. 5 through a field, maybe 500 feet. Truck started running warmer than normal. Turns out I had a perfect fan-sized circle of fluff stuck in the radiator from dandelions!! Blew it out with an air hose, and was back to normal.
 
Yes, you are absolutely correct. The pressure washer my mechanic buddy and I formerly used to "pressure wash" the radiator was a car wash pressure washer which was low pressure.

A home owner or commercial pressure washer will blast all the fins over flat eliminating the need for radiator cleaning but not the need for a new radiator!
 
Do you have one of those stainless screen fronts on the grill? I've never had one because I feel it looks like it would add too much restriction to the airflow for my liking. Fine for grocery runners, but not at the loads you are working with.
 
Do you have one of those stainless screen fronts on the grill? I've never had one because I feel it looks like it would add too much restriction to the airflow for my liking. Fine for grocery runners, but not at the loads you are working with.



Funny you mention that. I removed that a few months ago. My father was talking to me and asked what I had for protection up front, I told him what I had - "its about 70% open" LIGHT GOES ON- 30% less flow:eek:

I am going to wash out the radiator with a standard hose and maybe some type of cleaner. I would suspect water going from inside out would be the best direction to clean. Sadly it was only a month ago I had my fan and shroud off, I was in a campground that didnt like the hood of the truck up a lot so I didnt take the time to wash it up, dumb move on my part.

Funny- when I was struggling with electrics I had people say they wouldnt worry till it went over 230 :confused: . I know if I as watching the stock dash gage I wouldnt even be worried at all. That thing shows 240 as the danger zone.
 
All I use is aluminum window screen from the local hardware store. Maybe $10 bucks. Put it on the first week I had the truck, stays on year round and I don't have to mess with is come winter when the winter front goes on. I just wrapped the front of the rad and tie wired it on. It's not that noticable through the grill. I can't imagine staying in a campground that would comment on the hood being up, I park in the bush litterally, I like my freedom, silence and the price. Where I camp, I even weld my quad frames back together and no one knows. :D
 
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. I can't imagine staying in a campground that would comment on the hood being up, I park in the bush litterally, I like my freedom, silence and the price. Where I camp, I even weld my quad frames back together and no one knows. :D



I hear ya. But it is where we lived and worked so we did we respect the owners of the park (campground). We dont call it camping, we full time RV and when we go camping its motorcycles and a tent, (nearly once a week year round :) ) so I know what your saying about being in the bush ! Cracks me up when people pull in with their hughass motor homes, put down the auto leveling, crank up three ac units, power up the dish and "camp". Guess we all have a different view of roughing it :-laf
 
1000 post turbo is warm ~ probably around 1300 pre-turbo. Not hot enough to melt pistons but our 03's had a habit of dropping valves seats if run too hot for too long.
Personally, I would move that pyro probe to a more accurate position.
 
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