1978 Ford F350

[Kickin Y2K]

Making good porgress

Making some good progress now, all the welding on crossmembers and mounts is completed, the frame is painted and the firewall has been painted and undercoated/sound deadened. The engine is bolted in place.

Next step is some fuel system plumbing, exahust, some minor wiring and route some hoses and do the exhaust. Then bolt on the front clip and fiddle with the intercooler and radiator. Also need to mess with the 4x4 shifter and install the front axle.

 

[Kickin Y2K]

Okay, wiring is 1/2 way there now, exhaust is done, front clip is back on. Just about all that is left is intercooler, install the Dodge radiator and do the fuel supply.

 

[Kickin Y2K]

#ad

 

[Scot]

I finally set up my gallery and put some pictures in. Might set the body on this weekend.

 

[Nordby]

Keep up the progress diary on this rig guys! Probably speaking for a lot of folks that are watching this, by all means keep posting info and photos.



I'm doing a 1978 F250 CC 4x4, likely with a cummins. When things get serious, I'll provice all the info here I can to help others - because I am gonna need some help!



I have the frame and axles sandblasted and painted (swapped D60 up front), the 460 is out (60 psi compression in one cylinder), the front clip is off, and starting to look for donors. I may use my 2wd 1992 dodge parts for motor, fuel system, etc, but looking for a rolled one first.



It may be a while, but you guys convinced me that I should post all this. Thanks for your effort,

jon

 

[Nordby]

Hey scot and kickiny2k,



what transmission/transfer case setup did you use? I'm thinkin nv4500, and adapting to my 1978 np205 transfer case - hopefully avoiding the custom driveshaft length expense.



Any wisdom to share here?

thanks,jon

 

[Scot]

I am running a NV4500 with the stock '78 NP205 using an Advance Adapter. Replaced the mainshaft with fully splinned one and the input shaft on the t/c. I spoke to AA and they claimed their unit would hold the power. We will see.



I ended up moving the transmission mount back exactly the distance between the holes. (~7") You are going to have to change the driveshaft anyway. A d/s out of a '99 Dodge duelly quadcab fit exactly. It uses 1410 series joints. Highangle Driveline supplied the yokes.



You will want to go to bigger u-joints. My '75 F250 4x4 with a 6. 9 would knock stock ones every 25K miles.

 

[Kickin Y2K]

We used the Getrag transmission, it was brand new and came with the engine so was well worth it. If we start to have trouble with the transmission we will swap it out. An adapter was made to use the stock Ford transfer case.

The motor should/will be running this weekend

 

[Kickin Y2K]

IT'S ALIVE!! Motor is up and running as I type! Still have a few things to do, we need the seal where the hydraulic line attaches to the slave cylinder for the clutch, drivelines need to be finished, and the intercooler needs to be plumbed, not much and this thing will be on the road. Oh, fuel tank needs to be dropped and a return line plumbed in. One more full day and this thing will be on the street for it's first test drive!!!!!!!!!

 

[britannic]

Way to go! Your enthusiasm is contagious, I feel more incented to get my engine mounted and fired up!!!

 

[Kickin Y2K]

Cool, where in Northern CA are you, Bob and I would be more than willing to give any help we can. You gonna keep that 1028 mil-spec? If so we have the paint for you!!! Bob and I are military vehicle "nuts"

 

[Kickin Y2K]

Just posted another group of photos.....

 

[ranger1]

Originally posted by Kickin Y2K

Just posted another group of photos.....

Kickin. . That is real sweet. You were lucky enough to find a 79 without the big AC box on the right side of the firewall. Or, did you take the box out and put in a plate? Man that's nice. Anxious to know how it runs and what kind of fuel mileage you'll be getting... Good job, dude. Al

 

[britannic]

Originally posted by Kickin Y2K

Cool, where in Northern CA are you, Bob and I would be more than willing to give any help we can. You gonna keep that 1028 mil-spec? If so we have the paint for you!!! Bob and I are military vehicle "nuts"

I'm just down the road from you guys in Georgetown...



I'm going to keep it milspec, 'coz I'm a military vehicle nut too - ever since saw my first "Sugger" (Swedish 1940's half track that looked like monster Chevy coupe from the same era).

 

[Kickin Y2K]

Ranger1 thanks for the compliments, I know Bob will apprecite them. He's done 99% of the work himself, I haven't been able to get over there and help as much as I'd like. Nope, didn't have the A/C in it luckily!

britannic, you're right in between us, this truck is actually over in Mountain Ranch. Are you a member of the MVCC? I've got a bunch of CUCV parts if you need anything let me know.

 

[britannic]

Thanks Kickin! I've selling of a ton of them myself, to finance this project.



I'm in a holding pattern for my power upgrades, since PDR had to back order the 4GSK.



I'm working on a hybrid 1997 Dodge/ 1985 CUCV Chevy core support right now, that way I can use the stock radiator with the CTD hoses and intercooler.



I'm still looking for a decent CTD radiator - Marv at All Dodge is a bit on the steep side, but I may just have to lump it, if nothing shows up soon.

 

[Nordby]

fuel system (tank, lines)

Again, this is a great help - thanks for spending the time to post in here.



What did you folks use for the fuel system. ? The tank, the lines, etc. Can you get away with the stock tank and partial metal, partial rubber lines, gauge sending unit, etc. , or will the diesel eat this stuff up.



Some of the aftermarket tanks that bolt into these 73-79 F-series that displace the spare specifically say "NO DIESEL" is why I am asking this.



Thanks! Jon.

 

[Kickin Y2K]

Well, Bob's truck the front tank is steel while the rear tank is galvanized. If you don't know, diesel fuel will cause the galvanizing to flake off which if course is going to clog stuff up. Some plastics are the same way and flake apart.

Right now we're just running off the front tank, but we plan to replace the rear tank with the high capaicity steel one from a full size Bronco. The sending units are fine, all the guages in the truck are functioning perfectly except pyrometer and boost which haven't been installed yet.

We used steel brake line tubing for the return lines, stock feed line was used but relocated at the engine compartment end.

I don't remember where Bob got the switching valve but it had to be a six port unit for use with the return line and will use the stock switch.

A note on return lines, since this was a non-efi truck there was no return line. I've seen many cases where people simply plumb a return line into the top of the tank or into the filler neck. The problem with this is that it can foam up your fuel which at the very least will cause your guage to read fuller than it really is. The best way is to make sure your return line is plumbed into the tank about 2" or so from the bottom of the tank and I always put a 90 degree fitting on it so it returns well away from the senders float.

 

[Kickin Y2K]

Word is he drove the truck Friday!! Have been too busy to make it over there. He picked the intercooler up saturday. By next weekend if he don't have it installed already it will be fully operational and ready to roll. Not too bad a time frame, my first post on this was made Feb 8 considering this conversion has been done on nights and weekends. If we'd have had the money, parts and time to do it all at once it could have been done in one week easily.

 

[willyslover]

Bill. . I'm head'in out to Couer d'Alene tomorrow morning... after I get home would love to see this rig. . maybe we'll get together for a beer some time in the middle of the month when I get back. . [around 6/11 is when I should get home]