Attention: TDR Forum Junkies First Gen Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel
1992 Dodge Ram W250 CCLB
4spd (OD) Auto w/ Triple Disc Locking Torque Converter!
Intercooled
CLEAN Title In Hand
Approx. 250k Miles
$5750
Pictures
Use keyboard arrow keys when moving between larger pictures
Video - Walk Around/Engine Running
-- email address removed --
Overview:
I purchased this Gen1 Cummins from a local guy who purchased from older neighbor. I am the third owner of this Gen1 Cummins. The last owner did quite a bit of restoration/upgrade to the trucks, frame, body, and drivetrain. The truck is really a good deal for this asking price even though it’s rough outwardly appearance and little nagging issues. If for some reason the truck doesn’t sell for a while I will considering parting out the built transmission and engine, I hope that doesn’t happen as it is a good working truck as is.
The transmission is really the big item in this truck cost wise, I have invoice in labor and parts of 4k to retrofit in a Triple Disc Locking torque converter. I know a lot of folks will say it is impossible to have a Locking Auto Transmission in a Gen1, but all you need is 2nd gen starter, adapter plate, and shortened drive shaft. I know it locks as you can stall truck by stopping with locked toggle engaged. The ratcheting shifter really puts it together and makes the truck a blast to drive. If you want to a build a fast Cummins this is your rig, the low weight of the Gen1 combined with this transmissions means you could scoot down the ¼ mile pretty quickly if you do some engine work.
With the transmission and fuel modifications, the truck pulls very hard for a Gen1. It quickly builds about 19-20 PSI of boost which means it is right at 200 rear wheel HP. Not bad for a truck that came from the factory in 1992 with 160 Crank Horse Power.
Reason for Selling:
Even though I had planned to do a full restore on this truck (frame off), I have decided that is not the best course of action for me at this time in my life. I really can’t afford to go without having a working truck/4x4 in the next coming months so putting my truck out of commission for the months required to do the full restore I want to do just isn’t a possibility. I have purchased another truck that has a more user friendly interior for a car seat/family trips. My fully restored Gen1 Cummins will have to wait a few years.
The Good:
Previous Owner:
“Rebuilt Automatic Transmission by Brooks Transmission INC in Tremont, IL
I told Brooks that I wanted the transmission to hold up to 350-400 horsepower and he went from there. He is an ASE certified mechanic and specializes in rebuilding automatic transmissions. He said that before the economic downturn about 50% of his transmission jobs were performance or towing diesel trucks.
Triple Disc Lock-Up Torque Converter (from later transmission using thicker adapter plate from 2nd gen truck to fit the thicker converter & 2nd Gen Starter)
B&M Ratchet Shifter for Manual Shifts
Lock up Converter Comes on with switch along with overdrive (hydraulic switches or aftermarket controller to make locking completely separate)”
“Engine Mods
-Denny T Stage II Fuel Pin
-3200 RPM Governor Spring
-ASA Modifieds Intake w/ AFE filter
-Boost and Pyrometer Gauges
-4” Turbo Back Exhaust From Source Automotive
-The fuel pump settings were never changed. Honestly, I wanted to turn up the fuel a little more but never got the time to do it. “
Sheet Metal
-The truck was a bit rusty when bought. Eckstein Autobody in Pekin, IL patched in new metal in the bed and the rocker panels. The truck was never completely repainted. The darker red paint seen in the pictures was old paint from the autobody applied to protect the metal before the truck got a complete paint job which I planned to due myself but never got to it.
Frame/Suspension
-During summer 2011, rear spring hangers on rear axle were replaced due to rust. Front hangers on rear axle were rebuilt removing all rust (could not find N. O. S. rear axle-front spring hangers from Dodge). The frame did have some rust holes next to the fuel tank along the driver’s side frame rail. Dirt had built up where the frame rail is against the fuel tank and caused it to rust out because water and dirt wouldn’t drain. Roughly 3 feet of 2 or 3 inch angle iron was welded in to add back its strength (I’ll try to add some pictures of it so it doesn’t seem like a mystery). Then the rear half of the frame was painted with Chassis Saver to prevent more rust.
What I have done/fixed since purchasing truck:
-Killer Dowel Pin (KDP) Fix installed (pin hadn’t moved but some bolts were finger loose), so that is no longer an issue.
-Gates Radiator Hoses
-Gates Heavy Duty (green) Accessory Belt
-Gates Water Pump
-Gates Thermostat
-Proliance
432460 Radiator
- Better than stock
-Tires a 60% tread life is left the A/T 285’s
The Ugly:
-Check Engine Light is on most of the time. This is due to an external voltage regulator being put on after the engine’s ECM. The gauge in the cab will read very high as well but when you put a volt meter on the battery the alternator is not overcharging.
-Transfer case is difficult to get into 4 high but works properly when in each gear.
-Fuel Sender unit is faulty, so fuel gauge does not read accurately however low fuel light does work
-The body is pretty “ugly” but that doesn’t mean it isn’t sound there is about $2k invested already in rust repair. Unfortunately the repaired areas were just primed red so they do not match. The only areas of need of work is some patching in the floor of the bed. The rest of the truck is in good shape body wise. Right front fender is dented and the front grill has typical crack from someone leaning over the truck.
The Bad:
-The Rear Main seal is leaking; this is the major mechanical issue with the truck. You drive it somewhere and park it and you will have a pretty good size oil spot underneath of the truck. The engine does not lose enough oil to be seen of the dipstick for a long while, but when the truck does idle it will drip (no leaking if engine is off). I have gotten quote locally to fix for $750 bucks.
-Cab Heat/A/C Fan works but does not blow very hard. The heat and A/C work very well but fan doesn’t move much air, per my research it is related to bad contacts on the controls just haven’t had time to redo dash.
-Odometer doesn’t work and hasn’t worked for an unknown time. 1st owner who was another farmer in our town said it hadn’t worked for a “couple years. ” So I’m guessing actual millage may be about 250,000 miles. The truck was he primary truck for most of the time he owned it but during the last few years he had bought a newer truck to drive daily and had a half ton 2 wheel drive truck to check irrigations in our area during the growing season.
- Fuel Pickup, there appears to be some leaking at the fuel pickup at the top of the tank, if you over fill the tank some will spill out.
- Steering Shaft is in need of replacement, in my opinion as there is slop in the steering right now. I have purchased heavy duty Borgeson Steering Shaft (943 double U Joint) but have yet to install in truck. This cost me about $250 shipped from Geno’s Garage. I will include with the truck for install if asking price paid, but can be removed from deal to lower price.
Misc
-Truck has DMI bumper, Gooseneck hitch, and brake controller, so it is ready to tow.
-3. 55 limited slip differential
-Locking Front Hubs, got to love locking front hubs J.
-I have the original rubber molding not on the exterior of the truck, was waiting till it got painted.
Currently there has been about $7500 invested into restoration cost alone between me and previous owner.
My thoughts
Truck is very drivable as is if you don’t mind dripping a bit of oil, and steering being a little lose (truck tracks straight). In my opinion if you fixed just those two items the truck would be a very good as is for many miles to come if someone just wanted a basic daily driver but there is also a lot of potential there. Fully restored these are pretty attractive and sought after trucks.
Contact me via -- email address removed -- if interested.
1992 Dodge Ram W250 CCLB
4spd (OD) Auto w/ Triple Disc Locking Torque Converter!
Intercooled
CLEAN Title In Hand
Approx. 250k Miles
$5750
Pictures
Use keyboard arrow keys when moving between larger pictures
Video - Walk Around/Engine Running
-- email address removed --
Overview:
I purchased this Gen1 Cummins from a local guy who purchased from older neighbor. I am the third owner of this Gen1 Cummins. The last owner did quite a bit of restoration/upgrade to the trucks, frame, body, and drivetrain. The truck is really a good deal for this asking price even though it’s rough outwardly appearance and little nagging issues. If for some reason the truck doesn’t sell for a while I will considering parting out the built transmission and engine, I hope that doesn’t happen as it is a good working truck as is.
The transmission is really the big item in this truck cost wise, I have invoice in labor and parts of 4k to retrofit in a Triple Disc Locking torque converter. I know a lot of folks will say it is impossible to have a Locking Auto Transmission in a Gen1, but all you need is 2nd gen starter, adapter plate, and shortened drive shaft. I know it locks as you can stall truck by stopping with locked toggle engaged. The ratcheting shifter really puts it together and makes the truck a blast to drive. If you want to a build a fast Cummins this is your rig, the low weight of the Gen1 combined with this transmissions means you could scoot down the ¼ mile pretty quickly if you do some engine work.
With the transmission and fuel modifications, the truck pulls very hard for a Gen1. It quickly builds about 19-20 PSI of boost which means it is right at 200 rear wheel HP. Not bad for a truck that came from the factory in 1992 with 160 Crank Horse Power.
Reason for Selling:
Even though I had planned to do a full restore on this truck (frame off), I have decided that is not the best course of action for me at this time in my life. I really can’t afford to go without having a working truck/4x4 in the next coming months so putting my truck out of commission for the months required to do the full restore I want to do just isn’t a possibility. I have purchased another truck that has a more user friendly interior for a car seat/family trips. My fully restored Gen1 Cummins will have to wait a few years.
The Good:
Previous Owner:
“Rebuilt Automatic Transmission by Brooks Transmission INC in Tremont, IL
I told Brooks that I wanted the transmission to hold up to 350-400 horsepower and he went from there. He is an ASE certified mechanic and specializes in rebuilding automatic transmissions. He said that before the economic downturn about 50% of his transmission jobs were performance or towing diesel trucks.
Triple Disc Lock-Up Torque Converter (from later transmission using thicker adapter plate from 2nd gen truck to fit the thicker converter & 2nd Gen Starter)
B&M Ratchet Shifter for Manual Shifts
Lock up Converter Comes on with switch along with overdrive (hydraulic switches or aftermarket controller to make locking completely separate)”
“Engine Mods
-Denny T Stage II Fuel Pin
-3200 RPM Governor Spring
-ASA Modifieds Intake w/ AFE filter
-Boost and Pyrometer Gauges
-4” Turbo Back Exhaust From Source Automotive
-The fuel pump settings were never changed. Honestly, I wanted to turn up the fuel a little more but never got the time to do it. “
Sheet Metal
-The truck was a bit rusty when bought. Eckstein Autobody in Pekin, IL patched in new metal in the bed and the rocker panels. The truck was never completely repainted. The darker red paint seen in the pictures was old paint from the autobody applied to protect the metal before the truck got a complete paint job which I planned to due myself but never got to it.
Frame/Suspension
-During summer 2011, rear spring hangers on rear axle were replaced due to rust. Front hangers on rear axle were rebuilt removing all rust (could not find N. O. S. rear axle-front spring hangers from Dodge). The frame did have some rust holes next to the fuel tank along the driver’s side frame rail. Dirt had built up where the frame rail is against the fuel tank and caused it to rust out because water and dirt wouldn’t drain. Roughly 3 feet of 2 or 3 inch angle iron was welded in to add back its strength (I’ll try to add some pictures of it so it doesn’t seem like a mystery). Then the rear half of the frame was painted with Chassis Saver to prevent more rust.
What I have done/fixed since purchasing truck:
-Killer Dowel Pin (KDP) Fix installed (pin hadn’t moved but some bolts were finger loose), so that is no longer an issue.
-Gates Radiator Hoses
-Gates Heavy Duty (green) Accessory Belt
-Gates Water Pump
-Gates Thermostat
-Proliance
432460 Radiator
- Better than stock
-Tires a 60% tread life is left the A/T 285’s
The Ugly:
-Check Engine Light is on most of the time. This is due to an external voltage regulator being put on after the engine’s ECM. The gauge in the cab will read very high as well but when you put a volt meter on the battery the alternator is not overcharging.
-Transfer case is difficult to get into 4 high but works properly when in each gear.
-Fuel Sender unit is faulty, so fuel gauge does not read accurately however low fuel light does work
-The body is pretty “ugly” but that doesn’t mean it isn’t sound there is about $2k invested already in rust repair. Unfortunately the repaired areas were just primed red so they do not match. The only areas of need of work is some patching in the floor of the bed. The rest of the truck is in good shape body wise. Right front fender is dented and the front grill has typical crack from someone leaning over the truck.
The Bad:
-The Rear Main seal is leaking; this is the major mechanical issue with the truck. You drive it somewhere and park it and you will have a pretty good size oil spot underneath of the truck. The engine does not lose enough oil to be seen of the dipstick for a long while, but when the truck does idle it will drip (no leaking if engine is off). I have gotten quote locally to fix for $750 bucks.
-Cab Heat/A/C Fan works but does not blow very hard. The heat and A/C work very well but fan doesn’t move much air, per my research it is related to bad contacts on the controls just haven’t had time to redo dash.
-Odometer doesn’t work and hasn’t worked for an unknown time. 1st owner who was another farmer in our town said it hadn’t worked for a “couple years. ” So I’m guessing actual millage may be about 250,000 miles. The truck was he primary truck for most of the time he owned it but during the last few years he had bought a newer truck to drive daily and had a half ton 2 wheel drive truck to check irrigations in our area during the growing season.
- Fuel Pickup, there appears to be some leaking at the fuel pickup at the top of the tank, if you over fill the tank some will spill out.
- Steering Shaft is in need of replacement, in my opinion as there is slop in the steering right now. I have purchased heavy duty Borgeson Steering Shaft (943 double U Joint) but have yet to install in truck. This cost me about $250 shipped from Geno’s Garage. I will include with the truck for install if asking price paid, but can be removed from deal to lower price.
Misc
-Truck has DMI bumper, Gooseneck hitch, and brake controller, so it is ready to tow.
-3. 55 limited slip differential
-Locking Front Hubs, got to love locking front hubs J.
-I have the original rubber molding not on the exterior of the truck, was waiting till it got painted.
Currently there has been about $7500 invested into restoration cost alone between me and previous owner.
My thoughts
Truck is very drivable as is if you don’t mind dripping a bit of oil, and steering being a little lose (truck tracks straight). In my opinion if you fixed just those two items the truck would be a very good as is for many miles to come if someone just wanted a basic daily driver but there is also a lot of potential there. Fully restored these are pretty attractive and sought after trucks.
Contact me via -- email address removed -- if interested.
Last edited by a moderator:
