1992 W350 wiring

[jeff77indy]

My '92 CTD has a switch installed by a previous owner that will kill the power to one side of the ignition switch. The best I can tell from my '89 manual.

I traced the wiring to the positive side of the battery and a #12 red wire coming from the firewall. Which at one time went thru a fuseable link to the juntion of two # 14 or #16 red wires one going to the front of the truck the other back towards the firewall. The switch supplies 12v to the #12 red wire going to the ignition.

I cut the link out and spliced the larger and two smaller wires with no luck.

My '89 manual does not show this splice. Where do the two smaller wires go to?

I would like to make a permenant repair but do not have a '92 manual.

I am also looking for a grey fuse panel cover, a pair of stock black door lock pulls and a backup light plug for a NV 5600.

Thanks.

Jeff

 

[jeff77indy]

Got it figured out.

Well I got this one figured out I believe.

Next thing is when I turn my parking or head lights on with the ignition off the temp. gauge maxs out.

With the key on or the truck running the gauge works fine.

Could this be a dash ground problem?

 

[Philip]

I would check both the body and dash grounds. On your 92 the dash grounds are behind the lower panel to the right of the steering column. Drop the panel under the steering column out and look up towards the radio. You will see the wires. There should be three of them going to a metal brace behind the dash.



I would check the body ground on the battery first. That is the small wire coming off the battery - terminal. It is held on by a self tapping sheet metal screw. The wiore was installed after the raditor support was painted at the factory. So it will have paint under it. Remove the paint and see if your problem goes away.

 

[mattfultz]

Found out that the computer was bad! Also the first new rebuilt computer was also bad and had to get another from Advanced Auto Parts. They were more than willing to return the bad one and order a new one. Had to take the truck into a shop and do a diagnosis and mechanic had no communication with new computer and he called Advanced Auto to verify exchange and that computer was bad. Compter cost about $135. Not bad when you consider that after replacing two sensors (thinking they caused the problem) costs more than the computer. Thanks to everyone for all the advice. Hopefully this will help someone else in the future.