1993 D250 performance with new Bosch Performance Injectors

[hwebster]

Leak

It seems to be located at the front passenger side of the engine, just under the connection for the top rad hose. That being said, it is underneath this fitting and difficult to determine if it is the head gasket or the fitting.



I did call the Cummins shop that did the work, and they have an office in Edmonton. I'm heading there tomorrow and will have them resolve it!... I am spitting nails right now tho!>>>



BTW Thank You All!!!!!!!!!

 

[hwebster]

quick update

Drove all the way to Edmonton and when I got to the Cummins Dealer and the leak disappeared... must not be there when its hot...

 

[tugboatphil]

Harrison,



I battled a leak in the same general area on my 90. It was around the small jumper hose on the right front of the engine. Kept tightening clamps and finally got a new jumper hose. That seemed to stop it. But up until then, it was usually noticed after running a long time and then parking overnight.



The mystery leak!

 

[hwebster]

Mystery Leak

Thanks for the info Phil,

I'll look in that area. Won't be going too far for a day or so, winter has finally arrived 6 icy inches arrived last night...





Harrison

 

[hwebster]

Performance

Well I finally made it back! Old man winter kept me in Calgary for 3 extra days. The roads were so rough I had to turn back and wait for a couple of days n the hopes that the plows would have scraped the trash off. No Luck. . lost a wheel cover and turned into a "Road Etiquette" instructor.



I'me having the timing checked on the pump and looking for 1. 5 - 1. 6mm (15 - 16 degrees) on the pump. Also having them take a hard look at the leak near the thermosat housing.



I just purchased the service manual CD and I'm going thru it, howeer I noticed the optional tach is not included. Mine died, does anyone have a schematic of the components and wiring? (Cruise control isn't working either, I think they are related to a single problem with a sensor. . best guess...



H

 

[Philip]

Check the RPM sensor on the front of the engine. If your wiring has not been rerouted the wires are run over the top of the injector lines. Some people have had problems with the terminals coming loose in the plug by the thermostat housing for the RPM sensor. This thread talks about that problem.





https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=72958&highlight=rpm+sensor

 

[hwebster]

Update........

Well things seem to be improving. I went back to Onan Cummins after my horrendous trip back from Calgary... (I've never turned back on a trip but you wouldn't believe the state of the roads)



The pump timing was way off. They've put it back to spec and I managed 475k on 1/2 tank... Much betterer!



I lost a wheel cover on the way back from Calgary. Any one know of a used parts dealer that might have one? No one has any used Dodge parts around here. Trucks just keep on running.



I'm still running down my Tach problem. Thanks for the pointer to the thread. I've had a problem with the Check Engine Light coming on continuously. The problem went away when the tach stopped working, as did the cruise control. Now the Check Engine light is coming back on and lo and behold, the tach and cruise work! Obviously a short or interrmittent problem with the RPM Sensor. Will keep digging. .



Again Thanks for all the help!!!!!!





Harrison

 

[hwebster]

DTC Code

Well Blow Me Down. .



I was just reading about the DTC codes and how to get them with the CHeck Engine Light.



I tried it and got the following series of flashes...



1-2-4-1-1-1-5-5 I think. I'm looking up the DTC's in the manual so I think it is saying:



12 - No Such Code

41 - Generator Field Not Switching Properly

11 - No Crank Reference Signal at PCM

55 - End of Codes



Am I close? I know it can't contain 41 - I drive a manual transmission. .



Harrison (or Mongo

 

[dpuckett]

No crank referance to PCM could be a bad sensor or a sensor gap that is out of spec. . 049" to . 051" seems to stick in my head for clearance between h-balancer and sensor.

Generator field not switching properly could be a result of getting no signal from the RPM sensor- thus it thinks the engine is not running, and shuts off the alternator (why they refer to it as a generator in the books still baffles me). Or it could be a bad volt reglator in the PCM. New PCM or bypassing it and installing a regular regulator is in order if that is the case. I'll stop by the shop that did mine last winter, and see if they'll show me what they did to fix my 93. There are 3 wires coming out of the alternator that they used; cant be that hard to figure out.



Daniel

 

[hwebster]

Thanks Daniel...

This sure beats scratching my head!!!





Got to love the web...





Harrison

 

[bflood]

Re: Update........

Originally posted by hwebster





. . . . . I'm still running down my Tach problem. Thanks for the pointer to the thread. I've had a problem with the Check Engine Light coming on continuously. The problem went away when the tach stopped working, as did the cruise control. Now the Check Engine light is coming back on and lo and behold, the tach and cruise work! Obviously a short or interrmittent problem with the RPM Sensor. Will keep digging. .



Again Thanks for all the help!!!!!!



Harrison

Check out this thread on the forum:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=71203&highlight=wipers



I had shorting problems from the harness under the dash being chaffed by sharp metal gussets. Although you have problems with different wires than I did it could be the same problem. Worth checking out or being aware of this calamity.

Bruce

 

[hwebster]

Could be..

Thanks for the pointer Bruce. I've also notice a few wires in the harness that goes to the door chaffed. Will follow that up too...



thanks again... . H

 

[hwebster]

Still working things out..

Well the Cummins guys who working on baby probably weren't the best choice. They did solve the secondary coolant leak, but I'm still not happy with my performance (which is a balance between power and fuel economy to me)



I've contacted another diesel shop in town who seem to be much more knowledgeable about "performance" and after a 1/2 hour chat, will give them a shot at getting the set up right. It would be nice to know how to do this myself, is it very difficult?



I've been looking at the wiring coming from the front of the block, near the crank, which runs along the side of the head. WIll try and determine if this is the problem. I ran into some wiring issues with my stock trailer yesterday and it looks like I have a ground fault I need to run down. THe good news is that the temperature has only been -1 to -5 degrees C, instead of -20 !



The Grey Cup (Canadian PRofessional Football Championship) is being held here today. Should be interesting. Lots of people partying it up.



Take Care Out There..... H



Oh Ya, GOt a pyro on the way!



Night Y'all

 

[hwebster]

Pump Timing

Well,



I gave the local Cummins guys a chance to set up my pump and see where my performance would go, and I think it is safe to say they failed. I took my into the DSG shop in town and gave them the low down.



1st they took a quick look at the pump position and explained the timing marks on the casting. My pump seemed to be fully retarded and when we timed it, we had 3 degrees! I can't believe this is spec, and I'm still wondering about this. Is it possible for a pump to shift over time IF it isn't properly tightened up?



We then set the timing to 9 degrees as a first step in sorting out the issues. Much perkier, but I'm going to run a few tanks thru and see what happens. .



BTW the injectors I put in were the 1991 - 93 BTA 35hp PN1040175.



Its -32 out with the windchill today so I have to find a warm place to work on the tach. I think I'll replace the wiring in the circuit from the CPS connector back to the splice and see what happens.



Cheers... H

 

[hwebster]

Tach and fuel

Well, I got energetic yesterday and decided to try and track down the issue with my tach, I decide to splice in some new wiring from the connectoer at the front of the block (to the CPS) back to the first slice. The loom that contained the wiring was all cracked and falling apart and it seemed to be the logical plce to start.



Well after all that I did manage to get the tach to stay off almost completely. I think I need to change the connector!



How does this cable connect to the CPS and is it difficult to rewire to the whole circuit???





Fuel economy - Still haven't worked this out to my satisfaction. I now have the pump set to 9 degrees - it was at 3. Still don't know why it was at 3. (this shop attached a timing light to the truck and also a connector to the fuel line to set the timing. Not being a too knowledgeable here I think it is better that just using the pin.



I now have much better pickup and power. still watch the fuel comsumption but I need to get onto the highway a cruise for a tank to get a good feel.



I am installing a pyro and a boost guage, any recommendations on type and best place to buy?



Got to go play carpenter for the day... Have a good day all. .





Harrison

 

[hwebster]

Engine Speed Indicator = Crankshaft Position Indicator

Well It Has Been A Trying Day. I touch it, it Breaks.



Tried to build some furniture and ending up putting my Table Saw out of action. Dare I try the truck?



There seems to be a sinister plot by the authors of all service manuals to confuse and befuddle plain speaking folks like me.



I finally found the picture and the instruction for servicing the CPS only it's called the Engine Speed Sensor in the diesel section...



Now that I can see it, I can check it out...



Now I really feel like a dolt!!!!!



Cheers all, looks like -25c Tonight... Love that 0-40 oil. .





H