Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 1996 Fixing Things!

[SLangone]

In December I have a date set to repair the head gasket that has been slowly leaking since I bought the truck in May 2009. I will also be replacing the exhaust manifold with a three piece and servicing the KDP, along with replacing the rubber fuel lines with the marine type Larry sells. Do you all think there is anything that I missed? I have removed the pre-filter a few months back. During Christmas weekend I will be installing a pyro and a boost gauge. I don’t plan to BOMB my truck anytime soon or ever I would be happy with around the horse power that the new Cummins produce.

 

[kcv67]

Replace the tappet cover gasket behind the fuel pump it is easier when you have the head off and all the fuel lines off already.



Casey

 

[SLangone]

I think I found what you are referring to at 5. 9L Cummins Diesel Tappet Cover Gasket

Is there some where else that sells it cheaper?

 

[hsmith]

Even with the head off I'm sure you can't replace the side cover gasket without removing the injection pump.

 

[MLee]

Ya! check out which pyro gage your going to use 1/8 or 1/4" then if you need to, drill and tap it before you install the manifold and then clean out the filings. Plug it till you get the gages. Be sure that you use some anti-seise on the plugs. The rear most plug on the manifold boss is where you'll want to put the prob. Oh and soak the manifold bolts and turbo bolts with a good rust buster on the old manifold your going to remove.

 

[tp0d]

If yer gonna mess with the fuel lines at ALL, change them all the way back to the tank. I had multiple pinholes in mine, not to mention cracks in the stainless flex hoses under the drivers feet.

On my old 96, I replaced both supply and return all the way up to the fuel filter/overflow valve, and never had a leak after that. . Used high quality marine grade tubing from this site:

Trident Marine: Fuel Hose

was model #365. Pretty sure supply was 3/8" and return was 1/4". I bought 25' of each and had a few feet left over, its come in handy for lawnmower fuel supply/etc etc. .

good luck

-j

 

[SLangone]

Is there a write up on replacing fuel lines? I have the service manual but its very brief to say the least.

 

[mnick]

Is your head gasket leaking around the right front?

 

[SLangone]

No towards the rear. I had a shop charge the radiator and check for leaks in the guy had to get on top of the hood to finally find the leak near the #6 cylinder. I also seem to add antifreeze (maybe about less then a cup) about 2-3 weeks.

 

[Hammer]

IF the head is leaking back towards the number 6 cylinder you may want to prepare yourself to replace the head. Its a well known fact that the heads tend to crack between number 5 and number 6 cylinder on the exhaust side.

i do not think you will find too many places that sell parts as cheap as Garrett Shields at Pure Diesel Power,top shelf shop run by a couple of very nice people... ... . Andy

 

[Crowhurst]

Is there a write up on replacing fuel lines? I have the service manual but its very brief to say the least.

JoeG does a great write-up on renovating the whole fuel system with excellent detail and part numbers. You can PM him and ask for it, or PM me your email address and I can send it as an attachment. I would think he'd be okay with that. He's been a tremendous help to a lot of us over the years.

Nick.

 

[SLangone]

Alright just completed a Boost/ Pyro Gauge install. I want to thank My brother-n-law for all his help and Bob Benze from Silverdale (TDR Issue 41 pg 17), WA for giving me a good location for the two gauges. Sorry for the poor image it was taken from my camera phone. The most difficult part of the install was drilling the holes into the wood (which was used as a backing and drilling the hole into the aluminum).

#ad

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

Nice gauges! Would there have been room for a 3rd gauge there if you'd wanted?



thanks!

kevin

 

[SLangone]

Thank you! When Bob did the install he did say there had been room but he did have to modify some of the plastic. I left space in case I decided to install a rear ARB locker but now that I have given it some thought I will just install a Detroit Locker instead. But use that space to possibly put a switch for heated mirrors.

 

[SLangone]

Update!

I went to TRE Diesel in Norfolk this passed weekend and had the KDP taken care (which was getting ready to fall) of and fuel lines replaced, he also installed 60lb valve springs and while working on the truck noticed a few items and replaced my fan hub, and noticed my starter was not in all the way and fix it as well. I did not have the head gasket replaced because it seems that the leak has been taken care of by stopleak. Later down the road if my truck needs servicing I will be using Tim at TRE he did a great job I would recommend him to anyone.

 

[SRath]

You'll be wanting to set aside a fair chunk of change for a complete frontend rebuild/upgrade if it has not been done recently. There's nothing but junk up there from the center section on out if it is a 4x4.



You can also fix that idiotic parking brake pedal to work like a normal one and not pop off all the time.



That's the beauty of the Cummins Dodge: The cummins gives you reliabilty and the dodge gives you a place to spend all your time and money.

 

[SLangone]

What parts did you have in mind for a complete front end rebuild?

 

[SRath]

Everything!

If it is found under the front end of a cummins dodge and it moves, it doesn't last. The popular upgrade from Y-style to T-style steering linkage is definitely worth doing when your current front steering gives out, imo. There are lots of threads here covering it. The most popular replacement parts are from Moog. Such as ball joints and t-steering linkage.



Mark, Cumminspower98 here on TDR, has a nicely detailed webpage of that mod and many other very practical ones. Here ya go: My Ram His website is chock-full of great ideas and details.



I copied his very clever greaseable hub mod when I rebuilt my frontend, too. Other worthy upgrades would have to include a 3rd generation trackbar (I opted for the adjustable one). Adjustable poly-bushed control arms. Definitely the steering box/steering shaft support. You'll find it all on Mark's page and here.



The parking brake mod is one I came up with and it cures the very unreliable '96 p-brake and also makes it function like a normal p-brake by staying down as well as set. You should be able to find it with a search.



The list of upgrades that can be done is very long indeed. There is also the list that 'should be done' to any '96 you plan to keep and drive much. Very little of it involves doing anything to the Cummins aside from the kdp and fuel lines, etc. The engine is not the problem generally. But do not skimp on the steering, suspension, and brakes; all of which leave much to be desired. All the reliable diesel power in the world is worthless if you cannot get it to the ground and keep the truck safely between the fenceposts. And the term "Death Wobble" is very much a "dodge thing". You will never mistake it for anything else short of a magnitude 7 earthquake or category 5 tornado.

 

[MBNicholson]

Hi mnick,



We're down in Lake Havasu City, AZ for the winter, I have a 96 Ram 3500 5 spd w/ 5. 9 since new with @149,000 on it. It has the full Banks Power Pack, BD exhaust manafold, and Gear Vendors OD. Most of the miles have been pulling trailers 12 to 14,000 lbs. I have been awfully careful in not overheating the turbo.



Today, I had the temp gauge go almost to redline for the first time ever. Doesn't seem to be any water in the oil and the dipstick shows the oil at normal level. I added about a gallon of fluid to the radiator. I discovered stains from a pretty good water leak at the front right corner of the head gasket. In searching head gasket in the forums, I see you asked if it was leaking from the right front corner. Since mine is, I'm wondering what you were going to say?

 

[mnick]

All I was going to say is that this is a known weak spot in the headgasket. I slowed down the leak in mine by using a lower pressure radiator cap and some Irontite stop leak by Kiwk Way which is sold at NAPA stores. I ran the truck this way for almost 3 years then changed the headgasket. The headgasket is not fun!! Good luck.