1996 with 124K miles update - I need 10 more psi of boost

[Scotty B]

Still going through my newly acquired 1996. Installed Isspro gauges. Decided to tap the air horn for the boost sending unit. Discovered a #6 plate in the AFC. Not sure who made it. Any suggestions? The truck clearly behaved like it had a plate in it. Once I had the Isspro gauges installed EGT's were not too bad, but I could get 32psi at 1100 degrees going up a hill in town (about 5700 elevation). However, I took it up Eisenhower - unloaded - today. Engine did not overheat as reported by the PO, but I am still going to remove and clean the radiator next week before towing the trailer. Now, if I could only get about 10 more PSI without turning up the fuel, it will probably tow pretty well and not over temp the turbo. Any suggestions on how to get another 10psi at 10,000 feet? It has the stock HX35 turbo on it. It also has a turbo back 4' exhaust. Somebody was trying to think this through. Stock governor springs. Stock air box, which I plan to keep. I use to visit with Joe Donnelly (Is he still alive?), back in the day at dyno shoot outs in LV when he was making a million HP's and torque. He said stock air box was fine.

Finally, I found a receipt from 2007 in the glovebox whereby a local transmission shop installed a shift kit and RV torque convert. What the heck is an RV torque converter? I called them and did not have any records back then and only suggested those converters were used frequently in the 5.9 diesels. I was thinking of installing a DPC low stall converter. Not sure if I need to do that. Any input appreciated. On the other hand it shifts well and locks up appropriately in both normal and OD off modes.

After adjusting valves, pump idle, changing oil, fuel filters, etc, the motor purrs like it should.

See pictures below:

Boost sensor - please do not throw tomatoes. I am sure there is a small difference between here and the manifold access port - but not much room to work.

Running gauges:

Hard to photo watching for bone heads pulling into left lane going 40, passing a semi going 30, while I am pushing 70.

 

[BigPapa]

I wouldn't push the HX35 any more. I'd put some Governor Springs in it and call it a day.

 

[GAmes]

At sea level 30 psi of boost is pushing the limit of HX-35 rotation speed. At 10,000 feet it is turning considerably faster, well over it's design. If you want more air at that altitude you will have to pony up for a different turbo.

 

[Scotty B]

At sea level 30 psi of boost is pushing the limit of HX-35 rotation speed. At 10,000 feet it is turning considerably faster, well over it's design. If you want more air at that altitude you will have to pony up for a different turbo.

I am thinking about a spoologic HX35 stage 2. Drop in replacement. It should give me the 10psi and quick spool for towing I am looking for. The HE351CW looks like a good option, but requires a little effort to install. Anyone with experience with the Spoologic? BTW, I am trying to avoid valve springs and new head studs.

https://prosourcediesel.com/shop/br...r-for-1994-2002-dodge-ram-cummins-5-9l-black/

 

[GAmes]

Just their ad turns me off. Pimping oil leads me to believe their claims are more hype than substance. As an FYI, heavier duty valve springs on the exhaust valves are required for exhaust brakes. and both valves for high rpm conditions. (I've read 3200) Increased boost doesn't blow head gaskets so you don't need to worry about studs.

 

[Scotty B]

I did not find a lot of information or reviews for people who have used the spoologic turbo. This appears to be a new product in the last year. The oil thing at the bottom is not as big a turn off to me. Some additives are useful, but not a replacement for regular maintenance (which is suspect on most vehicles).
I found one helpful review at dieselarmy:
https://www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/drop-in-power-are-spoologics-drop-in-turbos-what-they-claim/

 

[BigPapa]

I run an HE351CW. I had to buy pipe and an adapter to clamp up my HX40 down pipe I already had when I ran a Sledpuller 66. Really wasn’t a big deal. The 351 works very well for me and my use.

As Gary said, no need for studs or exhaust springs at your power level or RPM. A good set of governor springs will give you all you’re looking for and they’re not nearly as expensive as a new turbo. I’d suggest doing that first and see what you think.

Also, since it has the plate in it, I’d be interested to know where you’re timing is at and what injectors are in it. I don’t think the stock 160hp injectors would perform as you say the truck does.

 

[Scotty B]

I run an HE351CW. I had to buy pipe and an adapter to clamp up my HX40 down pipe I already had when I ran a Sledpuller 66. Really wasn’t a big deal. The 351 works very well for me and my use.

As Gary said, no need for studs or exhaust springs at your power level or RPM. A good set of governor springs will give you all you’re looking for and they’re not nearly as expensive as a new turbo. I’d suggest doing that first and see what you think.

Also, since it has the plate in it, I’d be interested to know where you’re timing is at and what injectors are in it. I don’t think the stock 160hp injectors would perform as you say the truck does.

Thanks very much for the input. You may be very correct to get the RPM's up, but I do believe I am really stressing the HX35. I have installed 3K governor springs before. The procedure gives me the hebegebees. I have lost about 50% use of my right hand from nerve damage in my neck. I drop stuff constantly. Drives my wife crazy and scares the dog. I do not want to drop anything in the pump. I may have located a good 12V diesel tech that could help.

The timing is a good point. Somebody marked the harmonic balancer with white paint about 15 degrees BTDC. I noticed this when setting the valve clearance (which was way out never adjusted). I have the miller timing tool dial gauge. I guess I need to put that on my list of things to check.

My overall goal here is to make this a bullet proof towing/daily driver for the rest of my retirement. Fully loaded truck and trailer will be about 7k lbs. I will be going to the high country a lot and want cool egt's with reliable towing power. I do not like any of the later generation models.

 

[BigPapa]

It’s next to impossible to drop anything in the pump if you do it through the round hole on the side.

 

[Scotty B]

It’s next to impossible to drop anything in the pump if you do it through the round hole on the side.

I have not used this method. I will have to think about it. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[GAmes]

I did not find a lot of information or reviews for people who have used the spoologic turbo. This appears to be a new product in the last year. The oil thing at the bottom is not as big a turn off to me. Some additives are useful, but not a replacement for regular maintenance (which is suspect on most vehicles).
I found one helpful review at dieselarmy:
https://www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/drop-in-power-are-spoologics-drop-in-turbos-what-they-claim/

"The oil thing at the bottom is not as big a turn off to me." I'm the guy who believes if someone utters a falsehood that nothing he says can be believed. Their statement "Most Turbo replacements are due to premature failure and or poor quality fluids and extended drain intervals" is patently false. I've been doing 30,000 mile oil drains for quite some time yet my 500,000 mile HX-35 turbo works just fine. Oil brand isn't relevant, it is oil filtration that protects engine parts. Even at 30,000 miles the oil analysis comes back with good numbers, I only change it because I can't completely let go of the 3000-5000 mile oil change mentality I grew up with.

Nothing is bulletproof but my experience has been that the more the engine is modded the less reliable it becomes. A 7000 pound trailer doesn't require huge HP to be pulled over a mountain. You won't do it at 70mph, but you'll get to the top. Besides, you're retired. What's the rush?

 

[Scotty B]

@GAmes I respect your opinion with all of your high mileage experience. I have never taken the time to perform oil spectro analysis on a diesel. 30K intervals is impressive. That gives me more confidence in the lack of PM on this truck. I also agree that mechanical failures on a turbo may be due to a variety of reasons. Among those reasons may include poor PM. I am not defending their statements, every website has a sales pitch, but I see your point.

I laughed at your comment on what's the hurry. I am not necessarily interested in going faster, but having the truck make reliable power for the long term - based on the mods that were already installed. On the other hand I like the pulling power when the boost climbs.

I am going to look into governor springs as the next move, as well as pull and clean the radiator. I still need to service the transmission and will probably install a deeper pan.

Have replacement headlights from Geno's on the way. The old ones are very opaque.

Updates to follow.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Goerend builds a decent deep transmission pan. https://goerend.com/goerend-47-48re-transmission-pan/#product-reviews