Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 1998 12v Oil Pressure Sender Disconnect???

[RProvost]

I'm trying to replace my sender. Have replacement from Cummins and special socket. Problem is getting the wire harness off.



There is a red locking tab on bottom of sender that is holding up the works. How does this unhook? Does it slide out, pry out, knock out or what?



I'm about ready to break the damn thing in half.



BTW I've searched this forum until I'm blue in the face and can't find info on disconnecting harness from sender. All people say is to "disconnect" from sender and unscrew sender like it's a walk in the park. Even factory manual has nothing on it.



If anyone has a picture of the connector it would be nice. You can PM me.



Thanks,

Rich Provost

 

[Bob4x4]

Generally the red lock tabs slide out to allow the lock to be depressed. They can be brittle with age/heat so may break. not a big problem,when did connectors fall off before they added the secondary lock???

 

[fest3er]

I don't know if the red lock must be completely removed, but they usually do pop out all the way. They slide out sideways. Apply a short screwdriver to the 'bulbous' side and gently coax it out. Then work the connector off.

If you have a brass fitting between the sender and the block, be sure to insert the fitting *first*. *Then* insert the sender and tighten it. If you try to do both at once, you may split the brass adapter/fitting.

They're NPT threads and shouldn't need any form of sealant. Yet since there's no electrical connection to the block, a tiny bit of pipe dope probably wouldn't hurt.

 

[fest3er]

I don't know if the red lock must be completely removed, but they usually do pop out all the way. They slide out sideways. Apply a short screwdriver to the 'bulbous' side and gently coax it out. Then work the connector off.



If you have a brass fitting between the sender and the block, be sure to insert the fitting *first*. *Then* insert the sender and tighten it. If you try to do both at once, you may split the brass adapter/fitting.



They're NPT threads and shouldn't need any form of sealant. Yet since there's no electrical connection to the block, a tiny bit of pipe dope probably wouldn't hurt.