2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 1998.5 Frame Splice ?

[MEby]

HI,

I am trying to figure out the proper procedure to cut, splice and shrink the frame so I can can convert it to a single wheel w/pickup box, and so I can make sure my local weld shop does it right if I get them to do it. I talked to a non local frame shop, they said they would cut it (frame) vertically, bring it together, weld the frame then weld a 20" plate over the outside of the joint, and lastly, ? diamond plate the inside of the frame..... is this the right procedure? Any help would be appreciated. Would I be better off selling it as a flatbed and buying a 2500? I dont really need a 3500.





1998. 5 3500 4x4 reg. cab, flatbed, '92 12 valve transplant, 5spd, K&N, lost muffler,

 

[BigEasy]

Sounds like a safe bet... I've been repairing racecar frames for years...

 

[stacerbob]

Doesn't the frame have a factory joint right after the cab? If so why not take apart there & reassemble? I had a front frame section installed like that. Right under the cab where the frame is welded together they ground all the welds down & slid it apart, slid the straight one back in & squared up. Couldn't tell it had fell off a train... then got hit by another!!!

 

[MKline]

When a repair is made to big trucks, it is usually better to bolt the splice together with a piece of frame that either fits inside or outside. Welding might be ok as long as they don't weld the verticals at both ends of the splice plate. If they do, the frame will eventually crack where the splice plate stops.

 

[Nate]

If the frame is the same width, I would bevel the ends, and but weld the 2. . grind the weld flat.



Then over that a plate that's like this < > at the ends, run that about 12-16", both sides if you can

 

[HGreen]

Where you said Diamond Plate, I have always heard the term "fish plate" like overlapping scales on both sides of the joint. I have also heard that never weld a frame vertically as it will crack at the weld, and that the welds on the "fish plate" should not be continious. They should be skip welded. I seen this done on dump trucks and trucks used in the coal fields.

 

[TGroves]

before you okay the work on the frame ,make sure the shop has a frame jig to mount the truck on and gives you a frame spec sheet on how the frame looks to square ,,, or you will have crapy bed to cab gaps and the suspenion will be off

 

[Alphacowboy]

I actually want to do the opposite of you, and extend mine to accept a long box... I know it would take some time and money, but would it be worth it? I really hate the short box, and since the truck is paid off, I hate to sell and buy another and most likely end up with payments again.

 

[ata]

Always cut a Frame at an angle when Splicing. 45 degrees is best if you have the room to do it. Fish plate the outside side of the rail only and skip weld it to spread the heat. But weld it all the way around. Round the corners or angle them on the fish plate.

 

[MEby]

thanks for all the replies. I haven't checked for a splice in the frame, but it does have about a 3' section behind the cab thats straight. It would be easiest to splice there. By the way, the truck was a cab chassis model. The frame is approx. 8" longer than a extended cab long box truck, this is a regular cab with a 10' flatbed.

 

[MEby]

alphacowboy,

The frame shop would have shrunk my frame for me for $1,500. 00. They would have taken off the flatbed, I would have to put on the new box myself

 

[Alphacowboy]

alphacowboy,

The frame shop would have shrunk my frame for me for $1,500. 00. They would have taken off the flatbed, I would have to put on the new box myself

where do you live and are you selling the flat bed? I know a local guy that bought my 12v engine and is putting it in his '00 2500 gasser LWB. He is looking for a flat bed for it.

 

[MEby]

Alphacowboy,

I live in southwest Michigan. would definitely be interested in selling flatbed if I decide to go through and do a frame job. it might even be a factor in helping make up my mind

 

[Alphacowboy]

Alphacowboy,

I live in southwest Michigan. would definitely be interested in selling flatbed if I decide to go through and do a frame job. it might even be a factor in helping make up my mind

send me pics of the flat bed, -- email address removed --



thanks!

 

[Alphacowboy]

talked to my buddy tonight, he might be very interested in that flat bed if the price is right!

 

[MEby]

alphacowboy,

will try and get you some photos. I will say its not the nicest flatbed around, but it is a heavy duty one. it doesn't have a header board. I don't have any idea on price yet.

 

[PGunther]

there is a procedure in the FSM for splicing the frame.



you cut the heads off the rivets at the joint behind the cab and drive out the rivets. when joining the new section of frame, the FSM recommends lining everything up and then match drilling thru both frame sections with a 9/16" bit. then you bolt everything together with 9/16" fine thread bolts and lock nuts. i've done this and it works pretty well.



as far as i can tell, the rear frame section on all the trucks is the same. you should be able to find one and splice it to your front frame section.

 

[Alphacowboy]

so, how hard would it be to make mine a long bed? Could MEby and I swap the rear frame rails after seperated at the cab and essecialy I would get a LB and he would get a SB?

 

[MEby]

Alphacowboy,

my frame is 8" longer than a long box Quad Cab. I've got a regular cab. you would end up with a approx. 8" gap in between cab and bed



let me rephrase, if you took my rear clip, you would end up with approx. 2' betwewn bed and cab. I would end up with a 6' bed. I am trying to shorten it to a 8' bed. my wheel base is longer than a long box quad cab model

 

[PDM]

I think you can download the "Body Builders Guide" from Dodge for free.

I saw the procedure in a hardcopy of this manual, and it describes the

angled splice discussed in many replies.