Attention: TDR Forum Junkies Great site here. I have a 1998. 5 24V, one owner, reg cab, long bed, 5 speed, 3. 73 limited slip rear end, 2500, with about 190,000 miles. Problem/upgrade history is: replaced starter at perhaps 150,000; replaced fuel lift pump at about 75,000 miles; had to replace the original air filter at about 100,000 miles when a red squirrel got in, chewed it up, and filled it with a winter's supply of walnuts - a new filter and my . 22 corrected that problem; otherwise no other problems I can think of - oh, the windshield washer reservoir has a minor drip. Anti-freeze changed a couple times, and differential fluid too, all oil changes between 3000 and 3750 miles, and greased. Recent fluid changes completed or planned include transmission (I used the GM fluid - old fluid looked pretty good), differential (again - 3rd time), brake fluid (I might do the brakes at same time), power steering fluid (showed need back in cold winter weather up north). Truck still has original brakes and clutch. The differential drive-shaft seal needs changed - doesn't look hard in the shop manual so I plan to do this myself. Replaced fan belt recently - old belt still looked good - saved for spare. I replaced the original batteries a couple months ago. Fuel filters get changed as soon as a high speed miss is detected - approx 50,000 miles between changes - I carry 2-3 spares. Only mods are ALCOA wheels and recently removed the duct connecting air filter plenum to fender and drilled a couple holes in bottom of plenum box - seemed to increase torque/mileage a little - I can just detect turbo whine now. I added a couple auxilaray headlights - Dodge's highbeams are a joke - not 1/4 as good as GM's old 4 bulb system - I rigged them to a relay I jury rigged to the factory HighBeam relay. Jordan electric brake controller. I sometimes haul a fairly light-weight in-bed camper and sometimes also pull a trailer with it of maybe 4-5,000 lbs. I live on US east cost - do a mix of city and long-haul driving - make annual trips to Yukon Territory - 4th and even 3rd gear do not provide adequate retard on long/steep western hills. Brakes (still originals) are getting worn but would probably pass inspection again this year. Exhaust system shows sign it may be rusting through pipe at exhaust outlet.
I tend to drive the truck easy (cruise and hill climb up to about 2150 RPM if I'm in a hurry - somewhat less normally (down around 55 mph on short highway trips, or 1500-1800 rpm in 4th/3rd up the worst grades) - normally shifts are made between about 1500 and 1700 RPM, higher on up grades under load - drive train runs smoothly down to 1100 RPM (less if I'm carefull with the throttle) since I set the valve clearance at about 150,000 miles - not a bad job to do - couldn't stomach the shop quote - gentle/slow rolling stops/starts help with fuel/brake/clutch economy. I seek good fuel economy - on good interstate highway I often draft 16-wheelers - empty with tail gate down this gets 25-28 mpg at 70 MPH - better is possible if I draft closer than safe and find a rig doing 65 mph; drafting with camper at 65 mph yields about 19 mpg; non-drafting empty, with tailgate down it comes in between 22 - 24 mpg on highway - overall unloaded mix of city/highway driving, with cap on truck it's always around 20-21 mpg. Also, I seek great reliability - it's a little of an exageration, but its 200 miles to a fuel stop and service, from my place in the Yukon, and my few Murphy moments have all occured far from home and civilization. US fuel is CHEAP compared to northern Canadian prices - I hedge some with a spare 80 gallons I take to my base of Yukon operations. Mileage with camper-only (ie, without trailer) averages about 17 mpg, over 9,000+ mile trip with highway driving held to 60. Mileage doesn't seem to change much on dirt roads at slower speeds in lower gears running down to about 1100 - 1200 RPM - still about 16. 5 - 17 mpg on near thousand mile dirt road trip to North West Territory. I'm headed back to Yukon in June. I recently started adding my old crankcase oil to my fuel tank - about 2 quarts at a time - and sometimes I haul red fuel into canada and burn it there - heck it was what was being sold for onroad fuel around here (I85 in SC) right after Katrina. I carry a come-along and heavy tow strap and rope in case my go motion stops someplace I wish it hadn't. Also on some trips I carry a second spare, and tire sealer/inflator - oh, I also carry a small electric tire inflator, and some basic tools, and enough survival gear I could survive anyplace in any weather for at least a couple weeks. I'm looking for any thoughts anyone might have, especially on: You wondered if I'd ever get to my questions, huh?
1) Exhaust system replacement and exhaust brake: I figure a 4" (stock system is 3") turbo back, system would be the proper replacement; it should add some low/mid range torque, and improve mileage - I don't care about (won't use) the higher horsepower available in the upper RPM range. I figure an exhaust brake (if it has a good long reliable life would add a measure of safety, reduce the high rpm and heavy brake use on long-steep downgrades, while at same time allowing faster decent speeds - my interest is safety and driveability - the brakes last long enough that any brake life cost saving from an exhaust brake is trivial. I'm not locked to it, but my research led me to think a PACBrake (not one of the new/fancy/expensive models) would be the right exhaust brake for me - but local dealers listed as carrying/selling them don't have them (or any other brand either) and know nothing about them. My search for exhaust systems has been similarly futile. What I think I want would be a pacbrake with a 3" inlet and a 4" outlet, and a 4" exhaust that bolts to the packbrake "elbow/housing" - I'm unable to determine if the pacbrake is (I could call them, but I've learned parts in hand communicate better than salespeople (or maybe it's me) over the phone) in fact 3" inlet and 4" outlet, and what 4" exhaust systems are compatible with it. It appears 4" systems for this truck mostly bolt directly to turbo and expand to 4" in the pipe itself - or perhaps they bolt directly to the existing 3"/3" elbow. The JEGS 304 Stainless looks like a great buy, but I think it won't fit the pacbrake setup - it appears to bolt straight to turbo; a system that used a cast 3" to 4" elbow seems like it would be ideal but I know of none. Aluminized steel is probably ok if that's all that is available with a 4" exhaust brake boltup - or... . well, there's lots of possibilities, but which ones are real? Which best? All comments/suggestions/experience/ hearsay on this subject are appreciated.
2) Lift pump: As I understand it getting the "$70 lift pump" is good insurance to prevent problems, and as prevention of damage to the expensive VP-44 (I think NAPA may have a Carter fuel pump that is the same as the lift pump for $60 - 70 too). However, are lift pump problems occuring to everyone, or just those running at high horsepower/fuel demand levels? What is best choice for upgrading fuel system - mostly I'm aware of the cummins 4090046 campaign bus kit, the Vulcan kit, the option of just drilling out the banjo fittings, and Bully Dog Big Fuel Kit, which seems to also make fuel filter change air bleeding easier - although I don't know why I shouldn't just crack outlet at fuel filter, wrap with rag to contain fuel, bump the lift pump to purge most air, tighten line, start engine, and crack injector line to finish air purge. Or maybe I do lnow why - I once had a devil of a time starting it - pulled the turbo inlet hose and started/ran it on WD-40 until it settled down. Again, all thoughts appreciated.
3) Clutch: I know of no practical way to inspect clutch - is it time I start to carry the replacement parts - is the South Bend MU0090 CON O the right one to carry. Can I install this single-handed in the middle of no-where without special tools? Should I bust a tooth on that proverbial ol'bullet and just replace the clutch now?
4) I wonder about the universal joints - should I carry one or more as spares?
5) What other reliability, fuel-saving, things should I consider?
I tend to drive the truck easy (cruise and hill climb up to about 2150 RPM if I'm in a hurry - somewhat less normally (down around 55 mph on short highway trips, or 1500-1800 rpm in 4th/3rd up the worst grades) - normally shifts are made between about 1500 and 1700 RPM, higher on up grades under load - drive train runs smoothly down to 1100 RPM (less if I'm carefull with the throttle) since I set the valve clearance at about 150,000 miles - not a bad job to do - couldn't stomach the shop quote - gentle/slow rolling stops/starts help with fuel/brake/clutch economy. I seek good fuel economy - on good interstate highway I often draft 16-wheelers - empty with tail gate down this gets 25-28 mpg at 70 MPH - better is possible if I draft closer than safe and find a rig doing 65 mph; drafting with camper at 65 mph yields about 19 mpg; non-drafting empty, with tailgate down it comes in between 22 - 24 mpg on highway - overall unloaded mix of city/highway driving, with cap on truck it's always around 20-21 mpg. Also, I seek great reliability - it's a little of an exageration, but its 200 miles to a fuel stop and service, from my place in the Yukon, and my few Murphy moments have all occured far from home and civilization. US fuel is CHEAP compared to northern Canadian prices - I hedge some with a spare 80 gallons I take to my base of Yukon operations. Mileage with camper-only (ie, without trailer) averages about 17 mpg, over 9,000+ mile trip with highway driving held to 60. Mileage doesn't seem to change much on dirt roads at slower speeds in lower gears running down to about 1100 - 1200 RPM - still about 16. 5 - 17 mpg on near thousand mile dirt road trip to North West Territory. I'm headed back to Yukon in June. I recently started adding my old crankcase oil to my fuel tank - about 2 quarts at a time - and sometimes I haul red fuel into canada and burn it there - heck it was what was being sold for onroad fuel around here (I85 in SC) right after Katrina. I carry a come-along and heavy tow strap and rope in case my go motion stops someplace I wish it hadn't. Also on some trips I carry a second spare, and tire sealer/inflator - oh, I also carry a small electric tire inflator, and some basic tools, and enough survival gear I could survive anyplace in any weather for at least a couple weeks. I'm looking for any thoughts anyone might have, especially on: You wondered if I'd ever get to my questions, huh?
1) Exhaust system replacement and exhaust brake: I figure a 4" (stock system is 3") turbo back, system would be the proper replacement; it should add some low/mid range torque, and improve mileage - I don't care about (won't use) the higher horsepower available in the upper RPM range. I figure an exhaust brake (if it has a good long reliable life would add a measure of safety, reduce the high rpm and heavy brake use on long-steep downgrades, while at same time allowing faster decent speeds - my interest is safety and driveability - the brakes last long enough that any brake life cost saving from an exhaust brake is trivial. I'm not locked to it, but my research led me to think a PACBrake (not one of the new/fancy/expensive models) would be the right exhaust brake for me - but local dealers listed as carrying/selling them don't have them (or any other brand either) and know nothing about them. My search for exhaust systems has been similarly futile. What I think I want would be a pacbrake with a 3" inlet and a 4" outlet, and a 4" exhaust that bolts to the packbrake "elbow/housing" - I'm unable to determine if the pacbrake is (I could call them, but I've learned parts in hand communicate better than salespeople (or maybe it's me) over the phone) in fact 3" inlet and 4" outlet, and what 4" exhaust systems are compatible with it. It appears 4" systems for this truck mostly bolt directly to turbo and expand to 4" in the pipe itself - or perhaps they bolt directly to the existing 3"/3" elbow. The JEGS 304 Stainless looks like a great buy, but I think it won't fit the pacbrake setup - it appears to bolt straight to turbo; a system that used a cast 3" to 4" elbow seems like it would be ideal but I know of none. Aluminized steel is probably ok if that's all that is available with a 4" exhaust brake boltup - or... . well, there's lots of possibilities, but which ones are real? Which best? All comments/suggestions/experience/ hearsay on this subject are appreciated.
2) Lift pump: As I understand it getting the "$70 lift pump" is good insurance to prevent problems, and as prevention of damage to the expensive VP-44 (I think NAPA may have a Carter fuel pump that is the same as the lift pump for $60 - 70 too). However, are lift pump problems occuring to everyone, or just those running at high horsepower/fuel demand levels? What is best choice for upgrading fuel system - mostly I'm aware of the cummins 4090046 campaign bus kit, the Vulcan kit, the option of just drilling out the banjo fittings, and Bully Dog Big Fuel Kit, which seems to also make fuel filter change air bleeding easier - although I don't know why I shouldn't just crack outlet at fuel filter, wrap with rag to contain fuel, bump the lift pump to purge most air, tighten line, start engine, and crack injector line to finish air purge. Or maybe I do lnow why - I once had a devil of a time starting it - pulled the turbo inlet hose and started/ran it on WD-40 until it settled down. Again, all thoughts appreciated.
3) Clutch: I know of no practical way to inspect clutch - is it time I start to carry the replacement parts - is the South Bend MU0090 CON O the right one to carry. Can I install this single-handed in the middle of no-where without special tools? Should I bust a tooth on that proverbial ol'bullet and just replace the clutch now?
4) I wonder about the universal joints - should I carry one or more as spares?
5) What other reliability, fuel-saving, things should I consider?
