1ST generation BRAKES?

[ButchJ]

I can not find any information on anyone trying differant upgrades to 1st Gen. brake system to improve the braking. I see a add in TDR for a conversion to all disc brakes front and rear, is it worth the money? Have heard of changing rear brake drums from 2. 5" to 3. 0". I do know how Dodge got away selling vehciles with such poor breaking.

This truck has 42000 miles on it and is on it's third set of brakes along with new discs and drums Truck is caring spare fuel and diesel tanks but is not exceeding MGVW.

Any Ideas or help on lowering my blood pressure?

 

[Midnite]

I'm surprised this one hasn't seen any replies yet. Improving the rear drum brakes is relatively quick and easy. Going from 2. 5" to 3" shoes by itself doesn't do a whole lot--you need to also go to larger wheel cylinders. With the 1st gens, the 350s (the one-ton trucks) had larger wheel cylinders than the 250s. If you have a 250 you have the option of going up to those along with the 3" shoes (and turning the drums or buying new ones). You can also go to an even larger wheel cylinder for mid-90's Chevy/GM trucks, which I think is 30mm. If you have a 350 truck, then you should already have the 3" shoes, but you can still do the 30mm wheel cylinder.

This is much cheaper and easier than a rear disk conversion.

Mike

 

[pepecat]

I don't have an answer for you if you are burning through pads a lot. Just make sure you get GOOD pads, not autozone 20 dollar specials. I know there was some info on good brake linings here from mysteryman. He also mentioned getting custom rotors build from a machine shop that built rotors custom for nascar. I might search his past posts to get this info. Also there is another mod where you can take a hydroboost brake setup/master cyl and get rid of the weak vacuum module. You can retrofit a chebbie unit on there or you can scrounge around for a 1978 Dodge diesel full size ram setup. (yes 1978) It came from teh factory with a hydroboost setup. You will notice much much less pedal force needed to stop.

 

[SRadke]

3" pads in your factory drums with Chev wheel cylinders makes a huge diffrence. The chev wheel cylinders are 1 3/16" rather than 1 1/16" dia. The drums are the same, just be sure they are new or the old ones get turned out all the way to the inside.



Chev part numbers here:



First gen - NWDiesels.com

 

[rubberneck]

On my dads old 92, we machined the drums and put in the 3" shoes along with the chevy cylinders. It was a nice upgrade, but not nearly as nice as adding the hydroboost. It made a huge difference. That truck would outstop my 01 by leaps and bounds. I would say it stopped as good as the 06

 

[JApplegate]

ButchJ I feel your pain... . and that is why I have returned have so long away from the website. LOL i've had too and I am going to disk brakes on the rear. In the last 3 years I have replaces the rear brake drums 4 times and each time it is a different reason: wheel seal, wheel cylinder, broken brake line (yea in a snow storm... not funny) and last but my favorite... . RUST. yes i managed to rust my auto tension cables in 2 years which led to only the top of the pad getting used and don't forget the horrible master cylinder... . got a Bendix waiting to put it on. but back to the main problem... disk brakes... . is it possible (i'm really sick of working on drum brakes) and if so who do you guys recommend i go to for the kit???

hey there is nothing like the weird feeling of brake fluid on your hands... . LOL

 

[R C Cola]

Disk Brakes on 1st Gen

Been some good write-ups on this forum and others you can research. After reading them I was convinced they are the ultimate solution. The oversize wheel cylinders helped me a lot and getting rid of the rear anti-lock valve (also many write-ups) was the biggest help to me so far. With those 2 improvements braking for me was so good I could not justify the very high

dollar cost of the rear disks for now.

 

[PPeters]

I did this upgrade on my 92 some time back... you may see threads from me on this topic. It was a good solution, just understand you have a ******* child once you go down this path. Ford rotors, Cadillac calipers, and the emergency brake connection requires some tinkering. The guy who bought my 92 had some trouble getting parts for it 2 years ago.

 

[Midnite]

PPeters, I think it may have been you that I put up pics on my web server for back in 2002. Take a look at these and let me know if it's yours:

Index of /rear-disk

Mike

 

[Midnite]

Oops, nevermind--it looks like it was Nascar Mark. I found the original thread he posted here:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-ram-forum-1989-1993/52717-rear-disc-pic.html

and also:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ission-discussions/52718-rear-disc-pic-s.html

Mike

 

[PPeters]

Yup, not me.

 

[mysteryman]

brakes

Find some NOS asbestos brake pads and shoes. . That will solve your problem.

Your truck will stop better also!

I can not find any information on anyone trying differant upgrades to 1st Gen. brake system to improve the braking. I see a add in TDR for a conversion to all disc brakes front and rear, is it worth the money? Have heard of changing rear brake drums from 2. 5" to 3. 0". I do know how Dodge got away selling vehciles with such poor breaking.

This truck has 42000 miles on it and is on it's third set of brakes along with new discs and drums Truck is caring spare fuel and diesel tanks but is not exceeding MGVW.

Any Ideas or help on lowering my blood pressure?

 

[sdstriper]

Find some NOS asbestos brake pads and shoes. . That will solve your problem.

Your truck will stop better also!

Amen, and remove the anti-stop brake controller thingy.

 

[PToombs]

I can tell you the "anti-stop" thingy on my truck worked great! I couldn't stop worth a damn with it hooked up! :-laf

 

[mysteryman]

brakes

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that. . Bypass the anti stop brake valve located on the driver rear frame rail. . Then replace the factory plastic pistons in the front calipers with steel pistons... the plastic pistons swell over time . This causes the pistons to stick and or not release enough causing rapid rotor/pad wear...

Amen, and remove the anti-stop brake controller thingy.

 

[therabbittree]

where do you get the caliper steel pistons from? my last calipers were new from napa... Out of my first gens the biggest issue brakewise, I have is... . the front calipers. They don't have good slides ie that have that metal wedge . . and it takes effort to make the caliper float and not stick. . thats what I would like to change, get a pin or floating slide caliper setup, and add hydroboost.

Deo

 

[sdstriper]

Ask your local parts-geek? I scored a NOS pair a couple years ago on Ebay.

 

[SAndreasen]

[buying new ones). You can also go to an even larger wheel cylinder for mid-90's Chevy/GM trucks, which I think is 30mm. If you have a 350 truck, then you should already have the 3" shoes, but you can still do the 30mm wheel cylinder.



This is much cheaper and easier than a rear disk conversion.



Mike[/QUOTE]

what model and year of gm truck do i need to tell the parts store to get the larger wheel cylinders

 

[dpuckett]

Bypass the anti-lock/ anti-stop valve. These systems were designed without them, then added as an afterthought after the govt required them sometime in the late 80s. (and the Pres wants to make govt even bigger#@$%! ).



One other thing is a new rear brake hardware kit in the rear. "Self adjusting" means crawl under there yourself and adjust. Then crawl under there once a month and make sure they are staying adjusted. When mine gets to the point I need half pedal to stop, I get under there, tighten it all the way, and back it off the amount I determined I need to (I dont even have to lift it off the ground anymore), and presto, the pedal is back at the top.



One new master cylinders, ALWAYS get new, not reman. It failed once, and you have some $8/hr factory dufus putting it back together. But, then you probably have some $9 dufus building the new one..... The only brand I've had good luck with is the OEM Bendix. I got a new one from Rock AUto a few months back for ~$50 shipped.



Like mysteryman said, get good brakes. I cant believe you have gone through 3 sets of pads in 42K- that is about half my average life span for front pads. But if your rears arent doing their part, the fronts will wear quicker, along with warping rotors, etc, etc.



Good luck. If all else fails, they have 89-93 FOrd and CHevy diesls for cheap- drop a 5. 9 in there and call it good.



Daniel

 

[Midnite]

what model and year of gm truck do i need to tell the parts store to get the larger wheel cylinders

A 1995 3500 should get you the right part. You might want to do a search on this forum though--the actual NAPA part numbers have been posted in other threads before.



Mike