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1st oil change observations

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Turned over 5K, performed my first oil change , and rotated the tires on my Ram last night. Thought I'd post a few observations/comments from my first wrenching session on the new rig.
1. Weight: That $&%* thing is heavy! I don't remember the specs on my old floor jack, I think it's a Walker 3 ton. Anyway, I could tell a huge difference in the effort required to raise the front end of this truck compared to my old '72 3/4 ton Ford gasser.
2. Brakes: The calipers on the 2001. 5's are huge - both front and rears are floating, twin piston types with massive vented discs all the way around. Good lookin hardware, not as good as the 4 piston fixed calipers on my old 4 x 4 toyota though. I'm a little concerned about the routing of the brake lines for the front calipers - looks like they could get snagged pretty easily off-road.
3. Steering: This was the first time I've spent any real time rolling around under the truck checking things out, I don't have any steering problems, but looking at the length, geometry, etc. of the steering components, I'm sure it's just a matter of time... not very impressive design wise.
4. Hydraulic clutch: I was shocked when I saw this mickey mouse, Chevy Cavalier type setup; plastic master cylinder, plastic slave cylinder and line, no way to blead, at least no easy way. Looks like if anything goes wrong, you're expected to trash the whole thing. I guess as cheesy as it looks, it must give reasonably good service, havn't seen any posts here on the boards reporting failures.
5. Oil change: Yep, that filter was tight as he%%, I was able to remove it using just a conventional filter wrench - had to put every one of my 180 lbs behind it though.
Given that this was my first oil change, I was very meticulous; I let the oil drain the whole time I was rotating tires and looking around, I know I got every drop out. I then extracted 1 qt. of Rotella T from one of my jugs (very carefully - bet I was accurate to within a few cc's), I then prefilled one of my Geno's stratopore filters, installed it, and poured in the rest of the oil. I also checked my blow-by bottle & found just a few drops. After starting the truck and checking for leaks, I called it a night. When I checked my oil level the next morning (in the shop on level floor), it was barely into the "safe" range. The manual states that the save band encompases (sp?) 2 quarts, if this is right, putting in the full 3 gallons would put me more toward the middle of the band and I wouldn't have to screw with holding back one quart. Has anyone else experienced this? I imagine that my dipstick and dipstick tube are on the high/low end of the specs giving me a slightly false low reading - I didn't spill a drop, and I know put in exactly 11 qts. The truck came from the factory filled to the middle of the band, so I know Cummins or Dodge put in ~12 qts.
Drain Plug: I got a Geno's plug (drain hose type, it's a nice looking piece, I had thought that an aftermarket plug would be a necessity on this vehicle, that's why I got the Geno's part prior to doing my first change. For anyone who hasn't done their first change yet, it turns out you really don't need an aftermarket type plug as much as you might think, if you loosen the factory plug a couple of turns, you get a good volume of oil squirting out in a shower type pattern all around the plug. There's plenty of threads on the plug, so you don't have to try to loosen it till it's hanging by a thread, just loosen a few turns. By the time I had installed my filter and rotated the tires (~30 - 45 mins) the oil was almost all drained and not a single drop spilled on the floor. I put in my Geno's plug anyway... guess it would help if you're in a hurry.
Sorry for the long post, just wanted to share these observations and see what you more seasoned Cummins owners had to say.

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2001. 5 Flame Red 2500 4x4 Quad SLT SB ETH/DEE 3. 54LS 241HD
 
Did my first oil change at 2900 mi. Filter was a breeze due to my strong left arm from my right pull problem. It took exactly 11 quarts to bring me up to the top safe mark on the dip stick. I went ahead and just spilled some oil on her as soon as I opened the hood to keep myself from shaking and wondering when it was going to happen.

I used the stratapore and Delo 400 15w-40.

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2001 2500 QC 4x4 HO 6 speed, 4. 10 LSD loaded enough.
 
Thanks for the feedback, that's interesting. It looks like theres quite a bit of difference in dipstick calibrations. Paul says 11 qts brought his to the top of the safe range; 11 qts just barely got mine into the safe range, so there's practically 2 quarts difference in our dipstick calibrations. If the manual is right about the safe range being 2 qts wide, I would have to put in 14 qts to get mine to read at the top of the safe range like Paul's does with 11 qt. I'm not going to worry about it, believe I'll put in 11 qts at each change and add as required to maintain the same level on the stick.
If I can ever catch up with some of the SETDR guys, maybe I can borry one of their sticks & see how it compares.

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2001. 5 Flame Red 2500 4x4 Quad SLT SB ETH/DEE 3. 54LS 241HD
 
I thought I read in the manual somethere that the injector pump holds several quarts and take several hours to drain back into the pan. So if you turn off the truck, wait 5-10 minutes and check it should only be at the bottom part of the stick. And if you let it sit all night, you read the high end of the stick. Maybe this is my 12v, ???

A post in here brings an interesting question in my mind. If I run the truck 10 minutes then do the change, the oil maybe warm and drain better, but are you getting all the oil? Assuming there is oil in the pump that takes hours to drain.

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1997 2500 4x4, CC, Auto, 3. 54 LSD, 66K, Everything inc Leather, K&N, 4" BD cat-back, otherwise stock, Isspro Gauges(3), 285/75/16 on Alcola's, RS9000's, Canopy, BedLiner, and tons more.
 
Mine always takes a full 12 quarts to the fill mark, but is a 12 valve, if that makes any difference. One thing to remember when rotating your tires is to change the tire pressure if you are running different from front to back, which you should be for the best ride.
 
SlyBones,

The injector pump on the correctly valved engine does take about two hours to drain. The 24V does not. Being an evening shift worker, I like to roll in at midnight with the engine hot and idle it down a little longer than usual. While it is idling, I put my usual piece of cardboard and drain pan under it. Shut it off, flip open my drain valve from Geno's and go relax a bit. Next day, when I pull the filter, the oil apparently has siphoned off some so there is no spillage from the filter. Just need to keep your wits in case of an emergency.
 
1. I still need to rotate my tires so my truck hasn't been up. This time I only used a little bucket, but on our stock '89 a five gallon pail slides underneath without jacking and one still has wrenching room.

2. These brakes are awesome, but there are some things on the truck that are quite "cheesily" set up.

3. My steering is so good so far... but in relation to our '89, one thing I've noticed is the steering stabilizer waiting to get accidentally whacked off road instead of the axle housing.

4. That is a cute plastic master cylinder isn't it? Actually the owner's manual even states the whole clutch system is a complete throw away unit... no fixn'.

5. I think I have a 3 gallon system too... just like the '89 is designed for.

OK, easy first oil change!!! I have since read about this set up one here somewhere but thought at the time I really had something... You need a strap filter wrench with square tubing... I am not certain if they are all a standard size or not. However, ours allows perfect insertion of a 1/2" extention and ratchet. Plenty of leverage to compensate for the factory gorilla with that set up.

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Chris 01. 5 2500 ETH/DEE 3. 55 LSD 4x4 QC/LWB SLT Patriot/Silver Camper,Trailer,Snowplow prep...
 
Just a thought on the oil filter being so hard to break loose on the initial oil change, do they paint the engine with the clear coat after they put the filter on thus making you break the paint to loosen it?

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1998. 5 QC 2500 4X4 24 VALVE, INTENSE BLUE, 235-85 MICHELIN, BANKS STINGER,DD Stage1 injectors, BD ebrake, PE-EZ to replace the Banks ottomind box ,5 Sp, 3. 54
 
ANCIENT WOOD,apparently the problem was the wrong type of rubber used on the filter seal, they have since worked this problem out, but there are still trucks and filters circulating that have the old material.
 
i have changed my oil quite a few times and its always taken 11 qts ? i park my truck in the spot i want to change oil in the next morning and change it on a cold engine [ i change enough hot ones at work ] i don't have oil running out of the filter and only once found a loose filter.

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98 1/2 2500 4x4 standard cab long bed american eagle 16x8 no muffler roll pan was driftwood now 2000 galaxy blue after $12000. 00rear end job
 
Redram 1

Thanks for the good info.

I let the dealer change my oil at 750 mi. cause I had a free coupon, they use Delo 400, I didn't want to mess with the "welded" filter, and they allowed me to crawl around the truck with the tech.

Tech was very careful,and fastidious. He put exactly one quart in the filter, and then 10 more in the engine. The next day, after sitting all night, my dipstick read approx. quarter inch over the fill mark. Prior to the oil change I had checked it and found it right on the fill mark. Only thing I can think of is the dealer allowed drain time was only about 15 minutes. It was just down to a few drips, but it must take more time which they won't allow for, to all drain out. When I do my own I'm going to let it drain overnight and then see what I end up with on the dip-stick.

A Mother Cummins tech support told me that they run the engines for 10 min. and then drain the oil and remove the filter. The factory does the re-fill and filter install,so who knows how exact they are... 11 or 12 quarts??

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White 2001. 5 2500 ST, SWB, 4X4,QC, AUTO, 4. 10's, LSD, 285/75/16 On Weld Outbacks, PIAA 510's, Line-x, Tinted glass, Redline 85+, Blow-by-bye, RE-0880 & 25-0880,muffler fell off.
 
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