Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 1st post, got some ?'s on modding

[JBlackwell]

Well hello guys. I would like to start off by saying that I am a "mod"aholic. Not on my Cummins though... . YET, it is bone stock other then a drop in K&N, but I have a '00 Ford Lightning that making 520rwhp and 600+rwtq and I haven't gotten to spray it yet with a 100 shot.



But back to the point, I have been looking on here for a few months now and just got signed up yesterday. I have learned so much on this site and I haven't even gotten to ask questions yet. My truck is a '00 Automatic work truck, just a regular cab with a 8' bed, no carpet, no pwr anything. I bought it new with 500 miles on it(dealer demo). I just got the lift pump warrantied the other day(@ 67K miles). It was completely dead. I would have never checked it if I hadn't have gotten on this site. I appreciate that. I also had the dealership run the overhead too. I thought it was time. Every other maintenance that has ever been done, I have done it. Rear end, brakes, transmission, etc... I am actually a maintenance freak when it comes to my everyday driver.



OK, to the questions I have. I have read somewhere that the auto's come with a HY35 turbo with a 9cm housing. I went outside and looked on the tag on the turbo housing and it says that it is a HX35W. Now, what does that mean? Shed some light on this subject for me please. I know the HX's were on the manual's.



Also, I do want some more power, but I don't want to much because of the automatic. So I just want to get enough power to tow my Lightning and I bet it weighs about 6,000-6,500 for truck and trailer. I know, I know, you guys are going to say I will want more power and I will, but not now. That will come a few years down the road I imagine. I have my Lightning to play with right now. The Cummins will pull really well on flat ground when towing my Lightning, but falls on its face on hills.



So what do you guys say about me starting off with a set of 275's and a 4" exhaust? I found a full exhaust w/ downpipe and all in Summit for $300. I think I will go with that since money is a concern. The 275's I found for $335 on TST products' site.

I would like to note that the louder the better and I LOVE black smoke. lol



I know a few people might say to start off on the transmission first. Well, I just want to see how many miles I can actually get on the transmission. I don't beat it or anything, so I figured it may last a while. I do hate the dang torque converter though. It is like a woman, it can't make up its mine when to lock up or not. LMAO

I also saw on the TST site that I can rig up a toggle switch to lock up the converter manually in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. It takes away from haveing a "automatic", but I don't care. I would do it if I new it wouldn't hurt the transmission. Any opinions on that thought?



OK, about a fuel box now, this will come later, but I was looking on a diesel site or something like that and I found the new Superchips tuner for the 24V for like $320. It says it adds 70hp and 140tq, but has 3 programs. Would that ever work with the injectors? I really don't want an adjustable fuel/timing box because all I would do is play with it to much and just start tearing it up. There is not too many people that would admit that.



And I know all about the guages. I am trying to work on that right now. I believe I am going with the 3 guage pillar w/ Autometer 0-35 boost, Pyrometer kit, and elec. trans. temp. As for the fuel pressure, I was thinking of a outside mounting cup with a mechanical guage.



Again, I am wanting the best bang for the buck. I appreciate all of your guys' help.



Later,

JD

 

[Bob Wagner]

the hy's started on 01 trucks



welcome aboard

 

[Oil Burner]

the hy35 turbos were replaced by hx35 turbos in autos. manuals had HX35's as well. only older autos had HY35's. Your exhaust housing is smaller than an HX35 in a manual, i believe. you will be urged to do your transmission first. most swear that a full transmission upgrade makes the truck feel like a different vehicle. I have a manual so I can't comment on that. go for the 275's if you want a nice towing, mild injector. You can find them used on this site for less than $250. Most say that the superchips tuner does not add the horsepower it claims, has higher egt's and more smoke. It does allow you to change tire sizes and scan for codes. If you want a good, non adjustable box go with an edge ez or equivalent. just a better box... period. also, with 275's you will need a boost fooler to be able to use all available power. the edge ez has that built into it.

-Jason

 

[Oil Burner]

bob,

sorry, i had the hx's and hy's mixed up. old ones were hx's, I guess.

 

[JBlackwell]

So, since I do have an HX35, what housing size do I have? Where do I look to find out. I know the model number said HX35W. What does the "W" stand for?



Thanks for the comments so far.

 

[pwr2tow]

Welcome aboard,

It sounds like you already know what you want and how to use it. I would recommend the stage 1 or even stage 2 injectors over the 275's, there really isn't that much more out of the 275's and if your already haveing trouble on the hills the 275's are not going to make a huge difference, some, not alot.



From what your recommendations are I would start with the super chips and if it does not do what you expect then send it back and get the injectors. With the superchips programmer you also get speedo correction if you ever put different size tires on and you also get a code reader.



Injectors are easier on the injection pump than the boxes are and maybe even the superchips programmer, anything that changes the fueling through electronic enhancements is going to be harder on the injection pump than injectors. Like they say six of one, half dozen of the other.

 

[Hohn]

Welcome JD! I trust you will find TDR membership as rewarding as I do!



Here's my input to your situation:



For power upgrades, I would just install larger injectors and a boost fooler. A Stage 2 injector is a good starting point. I Would HIGHLY recommend Formula 1 diesel or Diesel Dynamics. They are the leading edge companies in injectors. The F1 injectors are EDM (the ultimate, and a little pricey), while the DD injectors are extrude-honed.



I have the DD2 injectors-- great bang for the buck. Injectors make SMOOTH power that is a LOT easier on your engine and driveline. AND they will generally have a little lower EGT per hp to boot.



Since a larger injector will require a boost fooler, you might as well get a fueling box of some kind. I recommend the Diesel Dynamics True Torque Power Module, or a Van Aaken. The Edge EZ is too aggressive on timing. If you want a box that will move some fuel (i. e. , a wire tap box), check out the TST powermax 3 or the DD Universal Fueling Module.





With just injectors, your trans should live a happy life if you don't get too pedal happy. Add a mild box and you are near the limits. Add a wire-tap box and you will shred your stock auto transmission if you dial it up.



If I were you, I would get some DD2 injectors (or Mach2 injectors if you want the premium) and just a simple boost fooler-- no "fueling box" at all. Here's some links for you:



Formula 1 Diesel -- for injectors

diesel dynamics -- for injectors and fueling boxes

Practical Solutions-- cheap boost fooler and some other cool stuff

TST, inc. -- fueling boxes for serious power



As for transmissions, those discussions get pretty heated. As a stick shift guy, I can tell you that I favor the approach used by DTT transmission. Check them out here. There are MANY good trans builders out there. If you play your cards right, you might not need one-- just a Torque converter and valve body.



Do a search for more auto transmission info. PM me if you want more info on power upgrades and/or recommendations.



Justin hohn

 

[MCummings]

Originally posted by JBlackwell

I have a '00 Ford Lightning that making 520rwhp and 600+rwtq and I haven't gotten to spray it yet with a 100 shot.

Hey, I have a '98 12 Valve Cummins that does 519rwhp and 1076rwtq

I have read somewhere that the auto's come with a HY35 turbo with a 9cm housing.

. . tag on the turbo housing and it says that it is a HX35W.

HX-35W. The Exhaust size is 12cm, and the "W" stands for Wastegated.

I just want to get enough power to tow my Lightning

. . falls on its face on hills...

This might be a programmig file in the trucks computer, limiting power in O. D. I think there might be a reflash to fix the low power in O. D.

So what do you guys say about me starting off with a set of 275's and a 4" exhaust? I found a full exhaust w/ downpipe and all in Summit for $300. I think I will go with that since money is a concern. The 275's I found for $335 on TST products' site.

I would like to note that the louder the better and I LOVE black smoke. lol

Don't expect much, if any HP from the 4" exhaust, the 275's will improve the HP, but I think you'd be better off with a Power Edge COMP, installed as an EZ.

when to lock up or not.

There is a reflash for that also. Erratic Torque Converter lockup. Also make sure the connections on the batery terminals are squeeky clean, and you might need a happi box, or reset the TPS.

I also saw on the TST site that I can rig up a toggle switch to lock up the converter manually in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. It takes away from haveing a "automatic", but I don't care. I would do it if I new it wouldn't hurt the transmission. Any opinions on that thought?

Don't do it, please. It will only shorten the lifespan of the transmission. Alot. Fix it right.

Superchips tuner for the 24V for like $320. It says it adds 70hp and 140tq, but has 3 programs.

TDR, and DTR Members have found that this chip adds, at best, 40RWHP on the highest setting, and runs hotter than a Power Edge EZ, and supposedly cannot be "stacked" with other boxes/chips. I don't think it has a boost fooler wither, which you will need, and teh EZ includes.

Would that ever work with the injectors? I really don't want an adjustable fuel/timing box because all I would do is play with it to much and just start tearing it up. There is not too many people that would admit that.

Just put the COMP on as an EZ, and leave it alone. It's not hard to do, and it will save you about $795 (keeps you from buying a Superchip, ten an EZ, and finally a COMP) The COMP can be run like a SuperChip, EZ, or COMP.

And I know all about the guages. I am trying to work on that right now. I believe I am going with the 3 guage pillar w/ Autometer 0-35 boost, Pyrometer kit, and elec. trans. temp. As for the fuel pressure, I was thinking of a outside mounting cup with a mechanical guage.

Sounds good, but if you plan on more power in the future, you might try Autometers 0-60 boost gauge. (I'm glad to see you don't want a vacuum gauge )

Again, I am wanting the best bang for the buck. I appreciate all of your guys' help.



Later,

JD

Hope I was of some help.



Merrick Cummings Jr



EDIT: If yo uturn up the power, you really should turn up the pressure on the transmission. You'll have to give a transmission vendor a call to do that. www.dieseltrans.com

 

[JBlackwell]

Thanks for the links guys. It looks like I shouldn't have joined up. I can sense a whole lot of money fixing to be spent on the Cummins.





Got another question... . if I go with injectors first, will I feel a difference without a boost fooler? Just wondering. Didn't know if I could do the injectors without the fooler, then go back with a fooler when I want more power.





Also, I think I am sold on some 275's because of the price, unless I can find some used injectors cheap when I get ready to buy. But which injectors are prone to smoke more?

 

[MCummings]

Originally posted by JBlackwell

Got another question... . if I go with injectors first, will I feel a difference without a boost fooler?

Yes, but EGT's might be high. The boost fooler will allow you to run more boost, keeping the EGT's cool.



As you may know, the A:F ratio works reverse in a diesel.

More Air = Cooler EGT

More fuel = Higher EGT



You've added more fuel, now you need more air.



Merrick Cummings Jr

 

[Ram4Sam]

lookee here!

Blackwell, check these out!



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2440272626&category=46098



Sam

 

[JBlackwell]

Another question

If I go with DD II's with a boost fooler and no box, how is the smoke control with them?



After your guys suggestions and more reading, I may like these the best.

 

[JBlackwell]

Oh, and how do you reset the TPS on these trucks?

 

[Hohn]

Smoke control with the DD2s is VERY easy. In fact, even WITH a non-wire-tap box, I can easily control the smoke and I am over 6000 feet elevation.



You should have NO smoke problems with the 2s and a boost fooler.



To get the most out of larger injectors, you need 1) a boost fooler to "hide" the higher boost from the ECM (so it won't set codes), and 2) and boost "elbow" to delay actuation of the wastegate, and allow higher boost levels.



If you just get DD2 and a boost fooler, you will have plenty of power for towing, no smoke issues, controllable EGTs (even with stock turbo). Plus you aren't running excessive timing or tapping the pump wire. The DD2 injectors are the ticket to affordable, streetable hp that's really easy on the expensie parts (inj pump, trans, etc... . ).





Do give DTT a call about raising trans line pressure. Merrick and I both linked to them above. transmission upgrades on the auto trucks are the most expensive, but probably also the most worthwhile upgrade you can make to any part of the truck.



HOHN

 

[JBlackwell]

Originally posted by Hohn

Smoke control with the DD2s is VERY easy. In fact, even WITH a non-wire-tap box, I can easily control the smoke and I am over 6000 feet elevation.



You should have NO smoke problems with the 2s and a boost fooler.



To get the most out of larger injectors, you need 1) a boost fooler to "hide" the higher boost from the ECM (so it won't set codes), and 2) and boost "elbow" to delay actuation of the wastegate, and allow higher boost levels.



If you just get DD2 and a boost fooler, you will have plenty of power for towing, no smoke issues, controllable EGTs (even with stock turbo). Plus you aren't running excessive timing or tapping the pump wire. The DD2 injectors are the ticket to affordable, streetable hp that's really easy on the expensie parts (inj pump, trans, etc... . ).





Do give DTT a call about raising trans line pressure. Merrick and I both linked to them above. transmission upgrades on the auto trucks are the most expensive, but probably also the most worthwhile upgrade you can make to any part of the truck.



HOHN

Hey thanks for the heads up on the scenerio Hohn.



I have one more question... . what about III's in the same situation?

 

[Hohn]

in my amateur opinion, i would think that 3s with nothing but a boost fooler would be a great setup. Temps might get a little hot when towing, and I would only go that route with a manual trans which would allow you to drive around the heat a little bit.



Also, you are starting to get to a point where atomization quality will suffer with the 3s. If you want that much injector, I would recommend stepping up to an EDM type injector. Then you can have BOTH high fuel flow AND good atomization.



Powerwise, a set of DD3s is about the same as DD2s and a timing (non wire-tap) box, althought the latter will have more bottom end grunt and lower EGT.



Honestly, you're not giving up that much (just smoke and heat) by settling for the DD2s.



I would suggest a Diesel Dynamics True Torque power module and their DD2 injectors. This is probably THE perfect towing combo. The timing on that box is custom tailored to work with those injectors. This will put you right around 350hp at the wheels, and you won't need big exhaust, or a new air intake system, or a new turbo, etc etc to run them.



The DD2 injectors and a mild box is about the most aggressive you can really go while still keeping mostly stock parts-- which means LESS MONEY spent on the truck.



I would say the 2s are what you want, not the 3s. You only give up a tiny amount of power, and get a good, clean, efficient efficient injector with reasonable EGT.



IMHO, there's never a reason to tap the wire on a truck used mostly for towing. If you tap the wire, it's cause you WANT to, never cause you NEED to.





Justin

 

[JBlackwell]

Thanks for your opinion. I am thinking I will save up my money for the DD2's and boost fooler. Since I have an automatic, I am going to hold back on the fueling/timing box. Probably get the valve body upgrade after the injectors. In the meantime of getting $$$$ together, I will look around this site a bit and see what else I may want.





Thanks,

JD