2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 1st post, shopping for a 2nd gen 24v

[CStansbury]

Hi Guys,

I've been lurking here for quite a while and finally ponied up the dough and joined. I was actually here a few years back when shopping for a 2nd gen 12v. I had a real bad experience with a used truck dealer which put off buying a truck for a couple more years. Now, my daily driver is kaput and I am shopping for a 2001 or newer Ram 2500 4x4 with the HO and 6 speed. I look forward to sharing the trucks I find with you guys and getting your feelings on them. The one I am looking at right now is a 2001 Quad Cab short bed with the HO and 6spd. It has 54k miles and is loaded to the hilt with leather and power everything. The dealer is looking for $26,900. I'm not sure what their rock bottom will be. The guy is supposed to be calling me tomorrow to set up a test drive. Do you guys have any suggestions on what to look for and if it is as nice as he says it is, what's a good price? $25,000? $24,000? There's a photo of it below. Thanks for any info and I look forward to hearing from you all.



Chris

 

[BluMtnRam]

Chris



Sounds like you're a step ahead of me. You found this site

before you started looking for a truck. I found it after my purchase. A few things I'll bet you've already picked upon

by lurking ? Get a lift pump pressure check. Run the VIN at

DC for maintence history. Understand gearing 3. 54s vs. 4. 10s

and the trade offs mileage vs towing. Check for possible

steering wander and brake issues. Is it disc or drum. Check

for signs of the mad bomber. Any extras ?? boxes, injectors

fryed clutch ? The jurys still out on my 4. 10 gears. Great for climbing outa the mtn valley where I live but 3. 73s sure would

be nice. If you would have asked a week ago I would have told you that a 5 speed shifts better. I'm getting used to the sixer now. Good Luck !



Just prurchased:2002-QC2500, 4x4SLT, SB with HO, 6speed,

4. 10s LSD. in the process of triple pillar gauges and

BHAF



Work: 1998. 5-3500, 4x4, SO, 5speed, with 4. 10 LSD, service

body with 200 gallon tank BB-4 pump, Hanny live reel

Code 3 light/siren package, 044 stihl, GP-35 shindy

1500 ft mixed hose. (Agency Wildfire Engine#9261)

 

[JaMan]

Paid 27,700 for mine brand new, work on the price or buy mine, and I'll buy that 98 12v some one posted is for sale

 

[DBCooper]

You can find what it's worth, or close to it here. www.kbb.com

 

[zstroken]

[you sure it was $27,700, what was the deal? repo? demo? what?

 

[CStansbury]

Originally posted by DBCooper

You can find what it's worth, or close to it here. www.kbb.com

Thanks! KBB says it's worth about $27,590 retail. So, the price seems close, but I would still want to talk him down to $25,000 if I could. What I really want to know is how to get a brand new one for $10,000 less than retail. What's your secret JaMan?

 

[TnLRacing]

For that kind of Money Cstansbury I would Check with TDR Member... tomeygun



He work at a Dealership in St. Louis, but he get killer deals for the TDR member on brand new 3rd Gens. I friend of mine got a 03 3500 SRW with a 6sp for around 31. He is Definitely worth talking to

 

[JaMan]

Mine was brand new at a dealership near the house here in Texas, it was 8800 of msrp they gave it to me at $500 under invoice and all the rebates at the time, total came out to be right at 28600 with a front ranchhand replacement bumper included. I was satisfied with the deal.



Jared

 

[CStansbury]

Holy smokes! What a great deal! I could definitely go for one of those.

 

[CStansbury]

I just found a '02 2500 4x4 quad with 15 miles on a local dealer's website. Dang, that would be great to have one that new without paying a '04 price. No price listed so I sent them an email. We'll see what they say. Rear discs would be nice and it's the graphite metallic paint so it looks sweet too.

 

[CStansbury]

Wow, this thread is a blast from the past! I was just searching for info on 24v trucks and found this. "Hey, that's me!!"



Funny though, because I am again looking at 24v trucks. Since writing this thread I have owned a 2004. 5 2500 QC and then later on a 1995 2500 4x4 EC.



My current ride is a 2000 Powerstroke Excursion. It has been great for family travel, but man I miss my 8' bed!! Anytime I want to grab something at the Lowes I have to hitch up a trailer



So, now I am truck shopping again. I would like another 12v, but the quad cab would be easier to load the dog and the baby in the back. I don't see me being able to afford a 12v QC so it looks like it is 24v time.



I found one not too far from here that is definitely in my price range, $7500. It is a 1999 2500 4x4 SLT QC, auto, long-box with high miles. It has brand new MT tires on it. It has a new turbo on it and the dealer is including a set of new intake boots because one of them has a hole rubbed in it. I am not looking forward to that project He said the only other issue is the QC door cables are getting a little worn and it takes a little jiggling to get them to work sometimes. Is that a common QC issue? It has a new VA state inspection so it must not be too much of a basket case.



Please see pics attached below.



I think I might go look at it this weekend or early next week. Other than the dreaded LP, are there other things 24v specific or QC specific that I should look out for?



I saw a LP test kit in Geno's. I am thinking about making one up to test it on the lot. It doesn't look too hard to make one. Do most 24v folks go to a FASS or Airdog LP system rather than chance the stockers or are one of the after-market LP's like the Vulcan sufficient for stock power?



Thanks for any tips gang! It's going to be great to get back in the CTD saddle again!Oo.

 

[DCreed]

stock style pumps (even relocated) aren't as reliable as the FASS or AIR DOG. Its not just a power issue. Also remember that this truck may be a "53" and will need the KDP tabbed. Also it has the front discs inboard of the hubs making service an expensive pain! How many miles? the VP44 is quite expensive and hard to insure longevity. radiator of that year will be copper and need to be looked at. Check the rear for damage as the bumper is sagging at bit. Mine has a weak rear door release handle too. Climb under and look at the fuel/brake line above the rear axle where it goes behind the tank as it tends to rust out. If its an auto ,figure on a rebuild at some point, and take out the check valve and install a better cooler and inspect the lines especially the one to the heat exchanger. I think thats it for now! LOL! Good Luck!!

 

[CStansbury]

Hey DCreed! Thanks! I forgot all about the crack-prone 53 blocks. The truck has 250k on it. If it had a 53 block, wouldn't it have cracked a long time ago? From the posts I read, it didn't seem like there was any certainty with the 53's one way or the other. Hmmm. That's definitely something I'll check though!!

I guess with that kind of mileage it could be on its second or third lift pump. Maybe even a VP?

I have the VIN. I need to check the Dodge service records. Too bad they just closed the Dodge dealership in my town

 

[Joe Mc]

I saw a LP test kit in Geno's. I am thinking about making one up to test it on the lot. It doesn't look too hard to make one. Do most 24v folks go to a FASS or Airdog LP system rather than chance the stockers or are one of the after-market LP's like the Vulcan sufficient for stock power?

The test kit shouldn't be hard to make up at all. You should be able to find anything needed here Grainger Industrial Supply a 25# gage, 36" refrigeration hose (already has the knurled and threaded ends) then all you'll need are the fittings to adapt the gage to the hose. You should be able to connect to the fuel filter housing, on top it should have a shrader valve, the fitting on the hose will thread onto, the refrigerant hose has a tab in the end to depress the valve so pressure can be read.



As far as the Vulcan system being sufficient for stock power HA! my GFS-392 holds a firm 20# at "any" throttle position - note my latest HP/TQ readings from a spin on the dyno last years "Spring Fling" Vulcan/Glacier system is more than sufficient. You should run the vin through the local Dodge dealer's service desk asking for a service/recall history. Hopefully the stock LP wasn't replaced with the DC fix - dreaded "in-tank" pump.



Good luck looks like a nice truck. Oh, I'm sure you'll "never" do any power mods :-laf

 

[zstroken]

Look at a kit with the Walbro pumps.

 

[CStansbury]

Thanks Joe for the tips on Grainger. I will make up my own test kit. I went to the glacier site and the GFS-392 kit looks great. I was also looking at the AirDog 100 since it has the extra filtration and air separation built into it. Oh, I'm sure the truck will stay stock

Thanks zstroken.

 

[Joe Mc]

"I'm sure the truck will stay stock":-laf:-laf:-laf So "was" I . . . till the bug bit me. I went with the big line kit and the spin on fuel filter. Give Rich at Glacier a call - he'll take care of you and help you make the right choice "even if it's not his product!!!" Rare! Excellent customer service try me out . . . give him a call and see for yourself.



Good luck to you.

 

[CStansbury]

Thanks Joe. I will give Rich a call. Do you have to use the Draw Straw with the big line kit?

 

[KevinSmith]

Hey DCreed! Thanks! I forgot all about the crack-prone 53 blocks. The truck has 250k on it. If it had a 53 block, wouldn't it have cracked a long time ago? From the posts I read, it didn't seem like there was any certainty with the 53's one way or the other. Hmmm. That's definitely something I'll check though!!

It takes 5 seconds to check and could save you 5k. Some people never have a problem and others end up hating the bill to fix the truck. I seem to recall a thread about some of them cracking but not leaking but I couldnt find the thread.