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2.25 Series Shocks, look what the UPS Man brought today

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To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

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Laser etched shocks, It's almost like we've made the bigs... :-laf



Brian and the Boys at Sway-a-Way went way out of their way to make us Dodge guys happy. They had to re-engineer the top caps and the rod ends to allow for bigger bearings to accommodate the big metric bolts Dodge uses. Thanks Gentlemen.



Here's the skinny:

-Internal Floating Piston (IFP) Technology. No need for Remote Reservoirs and the hassle to mount them.

-21% bigger piston area than our 2. 0 Series

-A larger oil capacity than the 2. 0 Series

-NitroSteel Shafts that won't chip or rust.

-High flow pistons

-Electroless Nickel Plated smooth body cylinders.

-USER VALVABLE and REBUILDABLE

-Bottom line is they're race inspired and cost effective
 
I can't post prices on TDR, but I will say your looking at a 44% saving over the 2. 5 Series Remote Reservoir shock when comparing the shocks only.



Obviously your not buying a shock that you get from you local offroad shop or shock retailer. If you buy from us, your getting equipment that is specificly valved with the correct 1 off hardware to fit the front or rear of the Dodge/Cummins.



http://lorenzindustries.com/kits_swayaway225.html
 
Matt S said:
Nice looking shock. Do they come in only red?



We can anodized them any color you'd like for an additional charge. I was considering black early on, but have since fell in love with the red.



Sean, what are the pros and cons of link vs block?



Using the Drop Blocks allow the user to go back to stock. The links require a very small amount of drilling at the axel mount on pre 05 models. 06-present trucks have the axels drilled out already from the factory. After you open the axel mount, the OEM links won't work on the pre 05 models w/o using the 06 OEM link.

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The blocks decrease the approach angle a hair.



The links replace the suspect OEM ball joint/mild steel links with 4130 chromoly hiem joints and f911 hardware. The OEM's tend to clunk when the ball joint wears out. I've bent my OEM's early on, they tend to snap after they're bent.



The blocks are cheaper to manufacture and that's represented in the final cost to the end user.



Whats the application? By that I mean what conditions are they designed for?



In all honesty, the 2. 25 would be on my truck if I didn't own the business. I have to buy every kit for testing so I kept the best. (Though I may have to put them on for the next So. Cal. Rattlin Rams Glamis outing to show Bob4x4 that a system that cost 66% less can handle just as well through the drags. :-laf ) They can keep up in Glamis and the temps are very managable. Temps are higher than running the 2. 5 Series (175*) but still well within operating temp (<200*). They can hang suprizingly well. The 2. 0 Series Fox's fade under the same 30 minute run in the dunes.



They handle my slide in camper with heavy rebound valving and don't whimper. Then again so do the 2. 0's.



I would say they're better for chasing race trucks through baja than the 2. 0's but can't keep up all day like the 2. 5 Series shocks can through the rough stuff. All in all, most guys don't use the 2. 5 shocks to their potential and could easily get away with spending less $ on a System. The 2. 25 are for 90% of Cummins' owners.



Bilsteins are for the street, towing (not so great for slide in campers), and occasional fire road access'. Not user valvable or rebuildable, and I can't get them valved how I'd like because they'd overheat. The best OEM replacement on the market, PERIOD.



2. 25 Series cover the gamut from the street, to towing heavy, to towing slide in campers. They'll keep up with any offroading the sane can throw at them. If your the guy that doesn't run a 5 Point Harness, Racing Seats and a Roll Cage, then the 2. 25 are for you. The keys being the ability to valve them to customer preferences, a larger piston that can take abuse and can dissipate more heat, and the 2. 25 retain race inspired technology; Viton Seals, Nitro Steel Shafts, and spherical Hiem joints vs Neoprene Bushings.



2. 5 Series will do everything well. They can handle baja all day long, laugh at 3hr runs through the dunes, and require a full roll cage to be used to their full potential. Use Hydro bumps, and a heavy coil with these bad boys, and you could race Baja.
 
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Sean... those shocks sure do look good. Out of curiousity, they wouldn't work on the stock suspension would they? I've been hearing rumors of some Fox Shocks that fit stock application Dodges running around... know anything about that? Also, is the red going to be the stocked color?
 
Red is the stocked color.



I carry(ied) the OEM replacement Fox shocks. I'm fazing them out because the 2. 25 is a better alternative and can hang better off road. Using an Internal floating piston cut the cost down compared the Fox 2. 0 Remote Reservoir, and the 2. 25 IFP carries more oil.



Let me rephrase that. I carried the Fox shocks that used my Billet/laser cut Towers, the OEM replacements have stem tops and use the OEM stamped steel shock towers.
 
pwerwagn said:
So this IFP system, the nitro and oil are 100% seperated? Its not an emulsion shock, correct?



--Jeff

Exactly. It works just like a remote reservor shock with out the extra canister. There's a dividing piston in the body of the shock that seperates the Nitrogen from the Oil.



Would your 2. 25 shocks bottom out with the stock springs installed on the truck?

Bottoming out shocks metal to metal is a problem the other guy has to address. NONE, I repeat NONE of my systems will bottom out metal to metal on the shocks. The OEM coils will work but you will need our Shock Tower and a limit straps up front. The OEM coils will fall out at full droop with these shocks, a limit strap is needed to keep the travel down and the OEM coils in the buckets. Not so with our IR coils, they have a longer free length. We use the limit strap with the IR's to keep the shocks from topping out.
 
Lorenz said:
Bilsteins are for the street, towing (not so great for slide in campers), and occasional fire road access'. Not user valvable or rebuildable, and I can't get them valved how I'd like because they'd overheat. The best OEM replacement on the market, PERIOD.



2. 25 Series cover the gamut from the street, to towing heavy, to towing slide in campers. They'll keep up with any offroading the sane can throw at them. If your the guy that doesn't run a 5 Point Harness, Racing Seats and a Roll Cage, then the 2. 25 are for you. The keys being the ability to valve them to customer preferences, a larger piston that can take abuse and can dissipate more heat, and the 2. 25 retain race inspired technology; Viton Seals, Nitro Steel Shafts, and spherical Hiem joints vs Neoprene Bushings.



2. 5 Series will do everything well. They can handle baja all day long, laugh at 3hr runs through the dunes, and require a full roll cage to be used to their full potential. Use Hydro bumps, and a heavy coil with these bad boys, and you could race Baja.
Wow, sounds like overkill for me. I was considering the Bilsteins as an upgrade from OE but after installing a set for a friend i wasn't too thrilled with them being shorter than OE on the back limiting wheel drop. Might be ok though for me since my rear blocks are gone.
 
Lorenz said:
Though I may have to put them on for the next So. Cal. Rattlin Rams Glamis outing to show Bob4x4 that a system that cost 66% less can handle just as well through the drags. :-laf



You are just trying to get me to cage my truck so I can show you 44% more :-laf



Bob
 
Bob4x4 said:
You are just trying to get me to cage my truck so I can show you 44% more :-laf



Bob



:-laf I'm telling you, get that sand rail you were debating and both of us could cut the "broken parts list" in half. We'd both have a cage and 5 point harness' when one of us goes over...
 
Lorenz said:
:-laf I'm telling you, get that sand rail you were debating and both of us could cut the "broken parts list" in half. We'd both have a cage and 5 point harness' when one of us goes over...

You got that right :-laf



Bob
 
Sean, I keep wanting to call you Steve, my cousin's husband's name is Steve Lorenz, haha.



Anyway, can you tell me which lengths these shocks come in? I will need some for my air ride. My rears will be 3" shorter than stock and all I will need is normal travel range. Need to check on the fronts still... .



Nick
 
NPloysa said:
Sean, I keep wanting to call you Steve, my cousin's husband's name is Steve Lorenz, haha.



Anyway, can you tell me which lengths these shocks come in? I will need some for my air ride. My rears will be 3" shorter than stock and all I will need is normal travel range. Need to check on the fronts still... .



Nick

I think I sent you a sticker? There was another fellow who knew a Lorenz, we sent him a couple of stickers on the house. Email me you're address and I'll do the same. He'll get a kick out of it.



I can get the 2. 25 in 6",8",10",12",14" and 16" travels. What are you making?



Do you have a 2. 5 Shock that can be used with a 6" lift?

I can get you any size shock you need. Your on your own with fitting it onto a 6" lift. We don't do anything over 3" because of the snow ball effect. Cut the bucket out, extend the radius arms, track bar drop down, adjustable track bar, pitman arm, new drive shafts, and then cross your fingers, and hope your driveline likes the new arrangement. It's been done, but it's allot of work. "onesloryd" has done it using my towers.



onesloryd's truck





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