2 inch suspension lift

[JGrefenstette]

i just got a price quote on a set of leaf springs for the front of my W250. im planning on 2 inch lift leaf springs and then adding a 2 inch block to the rear.

my question is: is all i need longer u-bolts/bracketts for the rear? can i put a 2 inch block under/over, the already huge block in there? with only a 2 inch lift to i have to modify anything at all, as far as shocks, steering, driveshaft, ect. ????

thanks

jimmy

 

[Bob4x4]

I would never stack blocks. It is unsafe,but it will also add to the wheel hop problem. Much better off going with a new leaf pack. If that doesn't fit in the budget do an add a leaf till you can do the full leafs.



Bob

 

[MMeier]

i just got a price quote on a set of leaf springs for the front of my W250. im planning on 2 inch lift leaf springs and then adding a 2 inch block to the rear.

my question is: is all i need longer u-bolts/bracketts for the rear? can i put a 2 inch block under/over, the already huge block in there? with only a 2 inch lift to i have to modify anything at all, as far as shocks, steering, driveshaft, ect. ????

thanks

jimmy

Which springs are you going with... and you know about the different sized eye bolts used on the front springs of a '93, correct?

 

[Makaio]

Jimmy,



FWIW, I did a 2" Skyjacker front spring swap about 2 years ago. Having dealt with the front spring eye bushing issue, there was another problem. Some have done a moderate 2" lift and left the stock pitman arm with no ill effect. After having 2 drag links fail on me, I learned that there is a drop down pitman arm for 2"-4", 4" and 6". I have the 2"-4" drop down pitman arm with an adjustable drag link, both from Skyjacker. You make your own call. As I've mentioned, a few have done just an adjustable drag link and have been fine. Good luck with your project.



Aloha,

Matt

 

[JGrefenstette]

hmm... . this is exactly why i posted this question. thanks a bunch fellas.



and no, i didnt no about the different eye bolts on the 93's. whats the story there?



would it be acceptable to remove the factory rear blocks and replace with a single larger one? the rear springs are in fair shape, the truck to my knowledge never towed anything and probly didnt even see much weight in the bed.



matt, thanks for the help, im definantly going to look at the skyjacker kits and other products an do a little more homework on this. do you think i could get away with just an adjustable drag link? i really wanna avoid the pitman arm at all cost. having done a few before on trucks and jeeps less rusted than mine, i dont wanna touch mine, period... . if you know where im comming from. they can be a real b. . ch

 

[Makaio]

Jimmy,



As far as just installing an adjustable drag link, I can only suggest to do it see if it works for you. In my opinion, that moderate 2" lift will change your suspension geometry. Two inches is two inches. My local 4x4 parts stores told me I wouldn't need a drop down pitman arm for that moderate lift. I had two drag links go bad in less than a year which caused me to look further. I called Skyjacker and found out I should use a drop down pitman arm and there was a part for my application. I haven't had a drag link fail after installing the drop down pitman arm. I know other guys on the forum have just installed an adjustable drag link and have had no problems. I might also add that I don't even take the truck off road and my failures were from mere street driving; the incorrect geometry stressed the tie rod end at the pitman arm.



Aloha,

Matt

 

[boatpuller]

I've run the Skyjacker 2" springs on the front for approx 90,000 miles, no adjustable drag link or anything, did replace the upper plastic ball joints once, but nothing else seems to be wearing out. I just followed Skyjackers instructions on the front spring eyes and have not seen any problem running them without a bushing. I did rotate my steering wheel on the splines a few degrees to make it straight after doing the lift. A lot of people got the adjustable draglinks but I'm not convinced it is necessary.

 

[JGrefenstette]

boatpuller, did you get the add-a-leaf for the rear, or just get the front springs, as sort of a leveling kit?



my steering wheel is already cocked to the right a fair amount. i bought the truck from the origional owner and he said he got it from the dealer like that, and they couldnt adjust it? does this just mean somebody replaced the pitman arm in the past an never lined it back up right?

 

[mysteryman]

Words of wisdom

Many many years ago when I was young... I thought that I could improve most everything I put my hands on... Each time my dad would say. . "if something works... do not screw with it. leave it alone and if you are very lucky maybe it will continue to work in the future"

Well it took me about 25 years to understand what he was trying to get across to me... But I finally got the message...



The 2" of lift you are proposing will do nothing for you except screw up all of the chassis geometry!!!! If your front springs are sagging or worn out. Get a new pair of stock springs and put them in... . They are cheap . . Check out springsnthings.com... You will not need any new u bolts or drive shafts. Your drag ling will be level, and with any luck the steering wheel will be in the center.

The ideal arch for the front spring is to have no arch at all or slightly negative... This was done to keep the front end stable at highway speeds and in the corners... .



In conclusion: You will save yourself a lot of time, money and down time if you leave the chassis geometry as we designed it... . Or as my dad would say.

"if it works, don't screw with it"



Good luck...

i just got a price quote on a set of leaf springs for the front of my W250. im planning on 2 inch lift leaf springs and then adding a 2 inch block to the rear.

my question is: is all i need longer u-bolts/bracketts for the rear? can i put a 2 inch block under/over, the already huge block in there? with only a 2 inch lift to i have to modify anything at all, as far as shocks, steering, driveshaft, ect. ????

thanks

jimmy

 

[JGrefenstette]

hmmm...

words of wisdom. but being young a reckless like i am, 17 going on 30

you can besure im going to mess with what ever i can get my hands on.

besides, i have bfg 35" tires on and they rub much more than i like, so the 2" will help with that significantly, and besides, ive never liked the hight of our trucks, i think they look very sharp with a moderate lift of 2", its not to much, but it still gives you a little more than stock. i understand what your saying though. this next fall im goin to diesel school, so that should help you understand my desire to obsesion with getting into projects and modifing everything

 

[JGrefenstette]

oh and i forgot to mention, with in the next few months, i plan on building a front bumper replcement/cattle gaurd. which will more than likely weight on the heavy side of a few hunderd pounds. so that added weight and the factor that the tire bring into it, and the fact that i hate a saging front due to the weight of our little lead bellied cummins, the 2" lift is rather appealing

 

[boatpuller]

I just put the front springs on, the truck still sits slightly nose down when empty. I did the 2" lift not for the lift itself, but for the added suspension travel before hitting the stops, the stock springs may have been fine when my truck was new, but it had 35,000 miles on it when I bought it, there was less than 1" between the springs and the rubber bump stops, the rubber stops were being contacted all the time, which makes for a very rough ride, with the 2" front springs there is a little more clearance to the stops so it is not bottoming out all the time, it makes a world of difference in the ride, now it rides like a truck, before it rode like a buckboard