2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2" Level Kit, 1" rear add a leaf & Bilstein Questions

[josh]

I have searched most of the topics on this, but found no real specific answers to my questions. My truck is a 96' 3/4 ton 4wd with the factory heavy duty camper / towing kit. I am having a 2" level kit added to the front. Can I use a 1" block w/ longer U bolts in the rear? To avoid that soft / saggy rear look? The guys doing my 2" kit say no, & that a better alternative is to add a 1" leaf. Is this correct? I have seen some trucks on here with a 1" block added, thus I ask. Pros ? Cons? Also I will be replacing the shocks all the way around. Does anyone have the part # for the longer Bilstein shocks to use up front? And a good source to buy both front & rear. Any and all information would be appreciated.



Thanks... ...

 

[DBraunig]

Hey Josh,



That is exactly what i did to my 98 Q/C. 2" in front and 1" in rear. i really like the way it sets now. I haven't had any problems, drive it everyday, drag race occasionally and the 305s don't rub on tight turns. i like that it does not change my ride quality any, truck sits just right and ride is stock.



Dave

 

[josh]

Good to know

Dave,



Nice looking rig. I like the 305's... I wonder if 315's would rub? Did you have a suspension shop do the 1" lift in the rear?



Thanks... Josh

 

[Todd F]

I personally would never add any extra height in the rear with blocks. It just produces more axle wrap. Add an extra leaf and if your worried about the stiffness in ride get a new set of leafs. A new set of leafs are reasonably priced

 

[DBraunig]

Josh,



Thanks, i like it too. I did the lift in the rear. The pictures of my rig on the Dyno are with 2" steel front spacers only, stock in the rear. I just recently lifted the rear when i installed a set of LSfarm traction bars i had gotten used from a friend. I realized, with the rear axle dangling, that i needed longer u-bolts or loose the overload springs in order to install the plates for the traction bars. Truck had to run... . so i lost the overload springs and used the factory block that was between the main spring pack and the overloads, just to see how it would look. I liked it, so i put it back together, and the traction Bars made such a difference in the whole truck. Instead of the whole truck quivering when it changes gears, now it's real crisp and feel like it lifts the front on shifts. I really like the Bars.



Todd is right, i was worried on wrap too, I have been know to Boost launch in 4wd for no apparent reason Oo. . I thought i could get away with it because i was adding the bars. I am going have a local spring shop make me some longer u-bolts so i can put my overloads back on. I like the way the truck sits, has just a little rake to it now, and the LSfarm bars tightened up the whole truck. I would not have done the lift without the bars. Actually the lift was because of the Bars .





Dave

 

[tURBOdIEZEl]

And a good source to buy both front & rear.

i am running the bilstein shocks. . 2" longer up front and stock rear shocks. they ride and look very nice. i got mine for very cheap from http://www.eshocks.com/

 

[Todd F]

If you are using spacers up front, you should not go for longer shocks unless you add some extended bump stops. Even then you dont need longer shocks in the front with spacers.

Too bad you dont live near my area as I have a new Rancho 2 1/4"(spacers) with dual shock mount with and Rancho 5000s , upper and lower control arms and a set of add aleafs for the rear. This would fit your truck perfectly as I bought it when I had my 96 but never installed it

 

[josh]

All great information guys thank you. Here is the problem though..... I know just enough to get myself in trouble..... for example... . I have no idea what axle wrap is? I hate like hell to pay someone to do this job, espcially in light of the fact that I did all the mods under the hood to my truck as well as my jetta. And also I was quoted $800 for everything, including parts. I just dont know too much about suspension related work.



Thank you guys..... Josh

 

[Kwoolley]

Air Bag?

I have done exactly the same thing with the front of my '02. I now have a slight nose up attitude that I don't really care for. I am hoping someone can offer advice on installing air bags to overcome this upish rake. I was thinking that this will also allow me to level the truck when I have a heavy load in the box (rocks). I am planning on installing an Extreme Flow on-board air compressor as an air source for bags, front and rear ARB's, and general use.



Has anyone used air bags for this purpose? Can they be ran with a small amount of air for leveling? I realize that any additional suspension component will change ride and handling. Will unloading the stock 3/4 ton springs a bit make for a softer ride? My thought there is that the initial 1" of suspension travel will be more "bag" than "spring"???



Kevin

 

[TLanier]

i put in skyjacker D25 2" front spings. only 160 bucks, and way better than spacers. for the first few weeks, before the springs broke in, the truck did sit with a "nose up" look. but now the truck sits almost level with a 1/4" or so higher in the rear. with the D25's you dont need to touch the rear. ride is smoother too, as more weight is shifted to the rear.

 

[josh]

Now this is getting interesting

I am now curious about the spring option too. Why is it a better option than spacers? Do you need longer shocks as well?



Also for ToodF: Why dont you want longer shocks with the 2" level kit?



Thanks again guys, I didnt know this would turn into such a complicated task!



Josh

 

[Fishin Guide]

I have some D25's in the garage for my truck right now and I am getting some Bilstein 5100s for the front. 2" over of course. The stock shock can overextend on mild roadways, so it can destroy the shock. Not to mention, that's not the position the piston should be in for the day to day driving we all do.



I agree that some drop bump stops are a good idea. It would prevent bottom the shocks on a hard hit and I have wonderered if it can rein in death wobble in some cases by not allowing the axle such a large compression stroke.



In the rear, it seems that short beds set tail low and long beds sit perfect after the D25s. Some Firestone RideRites with the minimum 10psi seems to give just enough height to level the rear of any taildraggers and you have added some stability to the rear end if you do load up the rear of the truck.



I am not a fan of stacking blocks. I have seen them wear on each other and even some split. I would rather have nothing but springs, but the reality is, the full length add a leaf and the stock setup is a good comporomise. This will add a little harshness to the rear and the spring pack will most likely settle to it's original height years down the road. Maybe the fronts will have setlled a comparable amount by then as well.



I am also looking at the DT link arms up front. They have stock length and a +1/2" to help recenter the tire in the well. I am goin with the latter. And the final piece to consider is the track bar. For leveled trucks, an adjustable type seems the way to go to recenter the axle under the frame. There are a few makers out there, one of which is the DT. But, I am leanign towards the Solid Steel 3rd gen conversion and adjustable track bar. Hopefully, it'll last years to come.



Do lots of research and get some test rides in. IMO, the Skyjacker D25s are far superior to the spacers. And there is also the KORE system. High quality stuff, but may or may not be more than your budget allows. Check them all out and make your own decisions.





Dave

 

[josh]

Dave,



Sage advice, thanks... . all you said makes sense. At this point it seems like the D25's are the way to go. With these longer springs would you need new / differnet control arms? I like the idea of an extra leaf to raise the rear, would you need longer shocks for the add a leaf as well?



Thanks... .



Josh

 

[TLanier]

my truck is a short bed, and like i said, the rear sat a teeny bit low until the coils settled (about a month), now the truck is level. actually, the rear is probably 1/4" higher than front now.



this guy has the best prices on D25's and Rancho shocks, with free shipping



http://hotrodoffroad.com/



these are great links for track bars, steering, and control arms.



http://www.dtprofab.com/dodge.htm

http://bulletproofsteering.com/pricingoptions.html

http://www.go2rdsi.com/racing/jeepstore.html

http://www.solidsteel.ca/DSS.htm

http://thurenfabrication.com/products.html







1) adj track bar will put your axle back in the center (left/right), as lift coils will cause it to move to one side a bit.



2) longer control arms will put the axle back center (fore/aft) as lift coild will cause it to move back a bit.



3) sway bar drop blocks, or adj sway bar links, will allow you to set the sway bar tension where you want it, as lift will cause the sway bar to be at an angle which increases its resistance (torsion).



4) longer bump stops will keep your shocks from bottoming.



if you just do coils and longer shocks, you should not have to do anything else for a while. the truck will drive just as straight as it did before. if you want perfection, do all four mentioned above.



when you lift the truck, you place more leverage on the suspension links and components. thats why people who do the 2" lift up front, who do nothing else right now (thats me currently $$$), will drive just fine for months or years... ... then all of a sudden they get death wobble. as you drive, the track bar wears out, and possibly the bushings on the control arms a teeny bit. maybe even the steering links and box get a little loose. all this because of more leverage.



if, when you do the 2" coils, you do an adj track bar, you will avoid alot of this wear (spread out all over the front end), as the new bar puts the axle back center, and the joints are way stronger and durable than stock to keep things put.



if you also do longer control arms, which also have stronger bushings than stock, you help even more.



lastly, if you really want to sturdy things up, get heim joint steering links, and a brace for your steering box



cheers

 

[I SPEED]

Here is my truck with the leveling kit (spacer) installed. Sits level. I also went with the Bilstiens. The 315s will go on after the truck runs on the Dyno again, the 265s look lost under the fenders.



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[Blk-N-Blu06]

Sorry so late! I am new to this site!

I am a new member to the TDR so here is my set up on my truck. I have a 2002 2500 QC SB. I have a 3" front spacer because I only had 30,000 miles on my truck when it was lifted. I wanted to retain the stock spring set up to see how the ride was. So here is my setup:

1. 3" coil spring spacer

2. 1" add-a-leaf from skyjacker(needed custom u-bolts because they were too short)

3. 2003 trac bar upgrade from extreme diesel

4. skyjacker upper & lower control arms

5. bilstein 5100 front shocks part #BE5-6646-H5

6. bilstein 5100 rear shocks part #BE5-6647-H5



I have had 2 gas Ram 2500's and one diesel 2500 and by far once I did this upgrade it was the best riding truck I have ever owned.

Hope this helps.

 

[MErickson1]

My 01 QC was almost 4" higher in the back to the front even with a canopy on the back, when I bought the truck.



Before I measured the difference between the front and the back I was concerned about installing the 2" leveling kit because of the canopy and having it look lower in the back than the front.



But when it measured almost 4" difference, I wasn't concerned. What's weird is the back is now just under 2" higher but when you stand back and look at the truck it really looks level.



The 35's fit really well, the only time it rubs is when you have the wheel cranked hard over ( I can live with that).