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2 Low

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Looking for GCWR for 99 Dodge QC 4x4 5-speed

Needing anything brought out of FL. to central states?

Was wondering about disconnecting front drive shaft and running in 4 low to give the truck lower gearing on dry surfaces, if need be. Sound okay? I would assume this would not hurt the transfer case
 
Don't know your model or year but I Installed a 12 volt operated Vacuum Switch in the vacuum control line and with a switch I could switch the front axle on and off. That gave me a lower drive without four wheel drive. Works great when backing a trailer up hill. This was on a 1998 4WD.



John Holmes posted the procedure in the TDR several years ago.



Bill Davis
 
I've used 4 Low for many years, with many trucks, for low-speed backing and maneuvering. I've never disconnected a drive shaft or had any problem. The issue of winding up the drive line will only occur if you make a number of tight turns. In those cases, the different numbers of rotations between the front and rear axles will eventually add up, and the drive line will pick up some tension. For mostly straight line backing, I've never noticed any wind-up. (And still don't. ) For backing where I had to maneuver, shifting out of 4 low and then back in again always released the wind-up tension. It's not an issue on gravel.



Your mileage may vary, of course, but that's my experience. For several years, I was also a four wheel drive instructor for new employees.
 
Member Bob V makes a great 2 low kit. I have had one on my truck for a couple years now and it has been great. Do a search on 2 low and you should be able to find some threads about his stuff. You may be able to find a cheaper method but I think Bobs is the best way since it doesnt just cut the vacumn off it redirects it so that the front axle disconnect cant move just like when you are in 2 high and it is not connected. Not that you cant build your own using his method as I think there are threads on that too.
 
BarryG said:
Member Bob V makes a great 2 low kit. I have had one on my truck for a couple years now and it has been great. Do a search on 2 low and you should be able to find some threads about his stuff. You may be able to find a cheaper method but I think Bobs is the best way since it doesnt just cut the vacumn off it redirects it so that the front axle disconnect cant move just like when you are in 2 high and it is not connected. Not that you cant build your own using his method as I think there are threads on that too.



Agree with BarryG, had mine a few years also. Easy install and works great. Will not work on years without front axle disconnects, though.
 
Just don't jump on the go pedal when in 2 low. The rear u-joints won't like nearly three times the torque going through them (half of that is supposed to go to the front).
 
I had the vacume switch on my '01;
Does the 06 have different means/system for engaging the front axel the was used on the 2nd Gen. trucks?

Thanks for any help.

Vaughn
 
just don't lock in the hubs and put the t-case in 4 low. there is a kit,i forget who but some one should know,you can put lock out hubs on a vechile with out the. me with a 1990 4x4 i can use 2 low at any time with the hubs unlocked
 
BarryG said:
Member Bob V makes a great 2 low kit. You may be able to find a cheaper method but I think Bobs is the best way since it doesnt just cut the vacumn off it redirects it so that the front axle disconnect cant move just like when you are in 2 high and it is not connected. Not that you cant build your own using his method as I think there are threads on that too.



There are two ways to do this that I would consider proper: a lock out hub conversion (contact Dynatrac for this as they build one of axle assemblies and parts better than OEM and will outlast OEM). They other way is to install 2WL in the transfer case. I personally have a 2004 jeep wrangler (same driveline set up as dodge just slightly smaller) That I have installed half ton components in after years back. One of the things I did do was install a 2WL kit in it and several other wranglers cherokees grand cherokees and even my moms durango with 5. 9L V8. You could also install this in the dodge rams with 231 transfer case. I would reccomend this option whenever we did a slip yoke eliminator on a transfer case cuz is was so jeep and helped so much on the trail and on the street and plenty other instances. But anyways I just bought a 2004. 5 dodge ram 3500 with cummuns When ever I want to use low range I have to run front axle too. This causes bind that stretches the transfer case chain and causes deflection in the case that could "pop" the case in two big chucks held together by a chain. I personally wish to install 2WL cause you never know when you'll need it and when you have it you find so many more instances that it is handy such as in 1-2 mph traffic for miles 2WL 1st gear and no brakes or accellerator needed and you can pick up a magazine to catch up on reading.



To those of you out there who are wondering why do you ever need to use 4wd low range: by taking a transmission such as an automatic and install a second transmission behind it that is manual and shifting the 2nd transmission into reduction range you are taking the pressure off the 1st transmission and making the torque converter run cooler. Taking the pressure off an automatic transmission is useful because I have seen first hand just rebuild transmissions come back to the shop because the owner backed up a heavy camper and puked out alot of fluid because they didn't take the strain off the transmission while the entire drivetrain was in a bind cuz the wheel couldn't spin or roll very well while backing up the camper.



Installing lockout hubs is not the best of idea if you don't need them cuz then you have to get out and engage them before you go in the mud, snow, beach, pond, field, or bad place to be driving. then you trail the mud in the truck and have to clean the truck. Its just so much easier if the driver can stay in his seat and drive (definition: operate controls to go somewhere) from the inside instead of having one of the driver controls outside of the truck.
 
Oh and not to mention that a axle disconnect still turning the front end and can drive the frontend on the one side of the assembly. But ussually it won't unless there is a problem and the power cannot simply exhaust itself through the disconnected side of an open differential. not to mention axle disconnects failing is nothing uncommon. Also alot of the chrysler 4WD suv's and truck didn't come with an axle disconnect and the ones that did like some of the dodges we notorious for failure and worthless when you needed the front wheels to pull.



You best bet would be a driveline disconect on the driveshaft (custom and hard to find someone to do it right) or 2WL in the transfer case. Installing 2WL in a transfer case is not hard at all. I would like to talk to the guy who makes the 2WL kits for the dodges like my 2004. 5 I would be willing to spend money I don't have on the kit that really I don't have a real situation I need it for right now but I know I alway found a situation where it helped on the My 2004 jeep wrangler
 
Oh yeah somebody said remove the front driveshaft. Bad Idea you don't have 4WD when you need it and you can't simply install the front driveshaft while you are buried to the frame in sand, mud, or snow. The guy who mentioned pulling the front driveshaft should go unbolt his hold it in his hand for a minute then bolt it right back in his truck. Its a pretty silly thing to do and can be a pain in the *** with skid plates, crossmembers, and other stuff in the way. Yeah its 8 bolts or nuts that hold the drive shaft on but theres so much more to it that makes it a pain in the *** that make you realize "haaaah 8 bolts yeah right this is a bunch of bull****, never again will I consider this. Then when you drop the cap full of needle bearings and can't find that last needle bearing your screwed and you have a bigger headache on your hands. SO WHAT EVER YOU DO LEAVE THE DRIVESHAFT BOLTED IN CUASE YOU MAYBE SPENDING MONEY PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER. trust me front driveshafts are a pain to remove at the transfer case. I know cause I used to work at a 4wd center and was the fabrication, drivetrain, driveline, and suspension tech.
 
Heres my valve for 2 low kit. When the valve is up and in the 4wd selector, it is 4wd. . when it is down, and in 4-low, it is really 2wd low for maneuvering a trailer...



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Works great!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
There are two ways to do this that I would consider proper: a lock out hub conversion (contact Dynatrac for this as they build one of axle assemblies and parts better than OEM and will outlast OEM). They other way is to install 2WL in the transfer case. I personally have a 2004 jeep wrangler (same driveline set up as dodge just slightly smaller) That I have installed half ton components in after years back. One of the things I did do was install a 2WL kit in it and several other wranglers cherokees grand cherokees and even my moms durango with 5. 9L V8. You could also install this in the dodge rams with 231 transfer case. I would reccomend this option whenever we did a slip yoke eliminator on a transfer case cuz is was so jeep and helped so much on the trail and on the street and plenty other instances. But anyways I just bought a 2004. 5 dodge ram 3500 with cummuns When ever I want to use low range I have to run front axle too. This causes bind that stretches the transfer case chain and causes deflection in the case that could "pop" the case in two big chucks held together by a chain. I personally wish to install 2WL cause you never know when you'll need it and when you have it you find so many more instances that it is handy such as in 1-2 mph traffic for miles 2WL 1st gear and no brakes or accellerator needed and you can pick up a magazine to catch up on reading.



To those of you out there who are wondering why do you ever need to use 4wd low range: by taking a transmission such as an automatic and install a second transmission behind it that is manual and shifting the 2nd transmission into reduction range you are taking the pressure off the 1st transmission and making the torque converter run cooler. Taking the pressure off an automatic transmission is useful because I have seen first hand just rebuild transmissions come back to the shop because the owner backed up a heavy camper and puked out alot of fluid because they didn't take the strain off the transmission while the entire drivetrain was in a bind cuz the wheel couldn't spin or roll very well while backing up the camper.



Installing lockout hubs is not the best of idea if you don't need them cuz then you have to get out and engage them before you go in the mud, snow, beach, pond, field, or bad place to be driving. then you trail the mud in the truck and have to clean the truck. Its just so much easier if the driver can stay in his seat and drive (definition: operate controls to go somewhere) from the inside instead of having one of the driver controls outside of the truck.



Any details on how to make 2WL on the 2003+ transfercase?
 
I think my kit is the one Bob V has that Barry said above. . the metal mount is an option for extra. this works perfectly. ! Sorta worrying about getting a new truck later as they are harder to do this... Oh well.
 
Yep Eric, thats Bob V's mount. I also installed Bobs kit but opted for the small vacuum toggle switch instead of the plunger push\pull knob. Attached is a pic of his kit.



Clay
 
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