2 Wheel Low Kits-If you've got one, I've got a couple questions

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Hi everybody. My name is Eric and I'm a BOMBaholic.

My next upgrade will be a 2 wheel low kit. I'm familiar with how they work and I checked the archives and have a few more questions. Also, I would appreciate feedback on the kit you have and any problems with it.

So please answer:

1) Can you shift back and forth between 2 and 4 wheel drive using just the switch and not moving the lever?
Reason I'm asking: It was brought up on a previous post that the factory system appies vacuum to one side or the other. Some kits may not. This could lead to catistrophic results if you're as lucky as I am.

2) Manual vacuum switch or electric solonoid?
Reason I'm asking: Vac type simpler to install & less prone to problems(?)

3) What does the switch look like and how did you mount it?
Reason I'm asking: I REALLY like the idea of an electric switch on the side of the shift lever like the big trucks have. Cool stuff even though it means electrons have to flow to shift the axle.

4) Where did you get it? Price? (e-mail me with the price as it's illegal #ad
to post such things) Maybe we could use the frozen pizza and 6 pack of beer scale?

5) Kind of related topic:

Background info: I was looking at the switch that NAPA sells for the big trucks (Class 8 dump fleet 1 block away from the store). The guy whipped out the switch (14 bananas) and because of the way the connectors are positioned under the cover, I would really need the connector (17 bananas) to make it look good.

My question is: How would I mount the switch to the shift lever? (I am thinking plastic wire ties? A bracket would look alot better!)

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'94 3500 4x4, 205,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Air Filter & Lubes, AWOL silencer ring & intake boot. NRA member. Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"

 

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Eric,
I posted a reply last week. Apparently it got lost in the shuffle. I will post a response when I have more time.

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2001 ordered 12/20/99. Arrived 2/9/00 2500 RC, SLT,4X4,ETH,6-speed,4:10 anti-spin,Camper special,cab clearance lights,GPD trailer tow mirrors,sliding rear window,Snow Plow prep, power seat,Line-X'd OTR bed and quarter panels,DeeZee running boards,INTENSE Blue/ agate.

 

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I got the greatest looking shifter switch! I just took the shift knob out of a parts rig that had a 10 spd Fuller Roadranger! It was nice and big, so the switch that came with my E-brake mounted right on there. Still got that big splitter switch, that is actually an air valve, and have nothing to hook it to #ad
Someone give me some ideas #ad
Give me a minute and I'll try to put up a pic of the shifter, it is cool.

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• '93 250 LE 4x4 5spd 4:10 Loaded,dual 5" chrome stacks,12cm² turbo(37psi),PW injectors,K&N,pyro/boost,US Gear E-Brake,tool box,CB,10" AR rims, 285/75/16 Bf goodrich. "wirenut_21529" on Yahoo Messenger
• '97 Ford B-Series school bus (5. 9 Cummins!)I'm gonna Bomb it!
• '94 GMC 2500 6. 5L Turbo

PICTURES.

 

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Answers
1)No,you have to move the lever to engage the transfer case 4wd gears
2)Electric solenoid is better,it's easer to route wires than vacuum tubes
3)The switch can be very small,you can mount it most anywhere
4)I got my electric solenoid valve from Granger,$34 or two large pizzas,toggle switch from Radio Shack $3 or 1/2 six pack of good stuff
5)Be creative,the switch from Radio Shack is about the size of a stack of three nickels with two holes thru the side,you could use very small self tapping screws to mount to the T-case shift lever,I put mine on the steering column cover with just the toggle exposed,it sticks out only about 3/8"
Good luck and have fun

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,Driftwood,Banks&Phscotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

 

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Ok Eric I 'll try to duplicate my original response to you from last week.

1 - You can't just use the switch. You have to go in correct sequence, first flip the switch on, then shift the transfer case. If you reverse that sequence, you will be in 4=lo, not 2-lo. Also, if you are in 2 lo, and shut off the engine, when you restart the engine you will be back in 4 lo, and will have to go back through the proper sequence again. An easy to tell if you are in 2 lo, is that the normal 4wd light in the dash will not be illuminated. If the light is on, you are truly in 4-lo.
2- Electric toggle switch. There is also a small led in the tip of the toggle switch, to indicate when it is in the on position.

3 - I mounted mine where the ashtray used to be, just below where I mounted my electric brake controller. I used the switched power source from the lighter for power. The toggle switch supplied is just a normal toggle switch, designed to be mounted through something, and held in place with a nut. I don't remember the exact spec, but it required drilling about a 1/4" hole.

4 - I purchased it from BD, the guys up north. Ballpark is was around $80 - $90, including S & H.

5 - Can't help ya with this one.

The most difficult part was locating a switched power source, what wire to splice into, and then fishing the wire from the toggle switch through the grommet in the firewall. The rest of the installation was very easy. I use 2-lo to back a trailer into a pole barn, as where I park the trailer is offset from the location of the door, and is on a cement pad. Once the kit was installed, I really like the way it works, and the functionality.

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2001 ordered 12/20/99. Arrived 2/9/00 2500 RC, SLT,4X4,ETH,6-speed,4:10 anti-spin,Camper special,cab clearance lights,GPD trailer tow mirrors,sliding rear window,Snow Plow prep, power seat,Line-X'd OTR bed and quarter panels,DeeZee running boards,INTENSE Blue/ agate.

 

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Another question.
If you use a un-switched power source wouldn't you be able to shut the truck off and restart and still be in 2-lo? The only draw back I see is if you left it on forever it might drain the battery and that's why you have that RDL (Red Dummy Light or is it Really Dumb Luck if you leave it on?).

 

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BV,
I believe that would be correct. Just if you forgot to flip off the toggle switch, you'd have a slight drain. Or if you couldn't see the led was on, you might think you're in 4-lo, but are really in 2-lo, but it doesn't seem like it would take anyone a long time to figgure that out.

 

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the only thing I am thinking could be a problem is the solenoid getting too hot by leaving it on for a long time?

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TAZ... 2001 2500 SLT+ 4X4 Auto ETC Cummins, LSD 3. 54,Quad Cab, Long Bed, Agate Leather, White/Driftwood Exterior, Sliding rear window, Camper Special Group, Towing Group, Cab clearance lights,SPA-Technique Digital Dual Gauges (Pyro/Boost, Trans pressure/temp) Aux. Backup lamps. BNM 5th Wheel Hitch, Additional Body Molding on Bed. BD Torc Loc, BD Pressure Loc, Line-X bed-liner. DTT's TC & VB, Pac Brake, Power Edge, Edge EZ, Grover Air Horns

2000 32' Aljo Triple Slide 5th Wheel.

http://www.ramtaz.com

Add on's to come: any other Ram Runner required modifications...

 

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Most solenoids of this type are rated for continous duty,it may get hot and run the battery down,but the solenoid will be fine.

 

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BV,
I still have my 2-low switch wired to constant power. Been too lazy to hook it up to my Painless wiring box. Yes,you can leave the switch on and shut off the truck,then restart and still have it in 2-low.

I have actually parked my truck overnight a couple if times with the switch 'on' and in 2-low... not on purpose,it was by accident. The solenoid is such a low amp unit that it never seemed to cause any noticeable drain on the batteries.

-Mike