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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 20 miles per gallon

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Leaky Turbo Lube Line

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Vp-44

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My mileage stinks. Between 12 & 14 towing my 7000# trailer and between 16 & 19 running empty.

I am thinking the canopy might have something to to with it. It is cab high in front and slopes upward rising to about a foot higher at the rear.



Some improvement was seen after increasing the timing from 12 to 15 degrees.



I would hate to do without the canopy but may take it off for a while just to see.



Anyone have any ideas?
 
Hey Got smoke



When you tightened the AFC spring - you said you got better mileage. Did you notice any difference in performance after you tightened it?



thanks!

Dan
 
Originally posted by Dan_69GTX

Hey Got smoke



When you tightened the AFC spring - you said you got better mileage. Did you notice any difference in performance after you tightened it?



thanks!

Dan



I never touched the spring itslef, but I moved the AFC "HOUSING" from full forward to full back and my milage went back up, and I don't believe I noticed any performance difference.
 
Hey - Got Smoke - Thanks!



Ok, I've just done a search on the AFC - housing, cover, plate - and am learning a lot more!



My truck's plate and ? was moved before I bought it - so I have no idea on what was moved or how much - in fact the whole pump was gone through (supposedly had a twisted o-ring that caused some problems). So, I'm going to learn more - as well as experiment.



So, now to start playing - Thanks for answering the question, even if I didn't ask the right one.



My truck smokes a lot - any RPM, (more on low) , gets 17mpg. I set the timing to 14. 5 - 15 and it woke up a LOT in the upper RPM. So IF I can do anything to help mileage, and not hurt performance - I'm all for that!



Dan
 
Originally posted by EGaskamp

I don't know if it's my right foot or not but I only get around 13-14 mpg. Thats highway and city combine. What to do?



I would suspicion that your foot techique is not as smooth as it might be for good milage.



Practicing good mpg technique is at odds with "gotta be there now" disease. :)



I'm driving a 1 ton dually 4x4 w/4. 10s 47RE auto and 235r85 tires in city traffic here in the Phoenix metro area. I am consistantly averaging 16. 0 mpg per 40-50 gallon fill up.



This requires driving at the back of the pack and trying to make all of the traffic lights in green mode. It goes against the grain if you are in a hurry, but if you gotta jockey that throttle, ya have to pay the price.



A comparison. I made one of those gotta be there now runs from Mesa, AZ to Lost Vegas, NV back in December. Cool weather, should have been good for lots of mpg's. I followed a hot rodder running 90-95 & pushed 3200+ rpm all the way. I got less than 12 mpg on that tank. That is a 25%-30% penalty for being in a hurry. :(



The best and cheapest accessory for hi mpg is a light foot that holds the throttle steady and isn't jockeying it back and forth all the time AND staying at or under 2000 rpm. :{
 
Idlin' mpgs

Heck, my truck gets more mpgs just settin' at a stop light idlin' than some of you guys do rolling down the highway.
 
Originally posted by Neibe

I found out how to get 20 miles per gallon I followed my mother in law from Iowa to Missouri and was forced to go the speed limit and guess what I got 20 miles per gallon. Go Figure!



If you knew the route she was taking, why in the world would you follow her???:confused:

If I knew where my MIL was heared, I'd be going the opposite direction at a high rate of fuel consumption.

Eric
 
"I would suggest that a two month long mileage check is much more realistic, so that the one underfilled tank that nets a wonderful 'mileage' number doesn't become the 'bragging rights number'"



I'm with you, Greg. There's no way to get realistic numbers on the short term.



Diesels are best as 'steady state' motors meaning that they're most economical at a single set low RPM. Driving a diesel vehicle makes steady state nearly impossible to achieve. But it's what we do, and in the doing there are some things that we can do to try to give the engine a chance to do what it does best. Driving slowly is a big help, but if that's not ganna' happen at least do everything possible to minimize throttle setting changes. Many people rely on cruise controls to do this even though the control, by it's nature, changes throttle settings almost continually. This actually can hurt milage. It would be better to use a dashboard control that can be set at a desired RPM and left alone allowing the torque built into the engine spec. to pull through small rises and downshifting for bigger ones. For downhills the braking systems, service, or compression, and to some extent gearing can hold back speed while changing RPM only to stop or move very slowly. Ideal, but impracticable while driving in traffic or, mountains and difficult for drivers used to gas engine techniques to do at any time.



Great theory and true but I just got back from a 2000 mile run towing 7000k one way and a little over 9000k on the way back in our '01 HO/6sp. Careful to be sure that my fillups were really full, and going 55 mph for most of the length of Calif. both ways (was ticketted for towing at 72 mph north of Redding on the way down and became scrupulously law abiding after that). The truck gave an overall of 19 mpg for the whole trip, and that's about the same as it gives when I hotrod empty around town.



You see, there's no figuring it out.
 
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