200,000 Advice 2003

[CB HUNTER]

Well I finally hit the 200,000 mile mark on my 2003 and the only parts I have had to replace is the waterpump and Fuel Control Actuator and of course brakes and regular service on the engine and transmission. I did replace the Shocks and Tie rods about 20,000 miles ago. My batteries still seem to still be strong and I have not touch the transmission other than regular service. Is there any insight out there that might give me sugestions of items I might want to think about looking at. Oh yea and My dash is cracking all over the place and you would think Dodge would of had issue fixed before the 3rd generation and yes my Air stinks and I haven't had the courage yet to replace al the doors in the hvac. #@$%! Any advice is much appreciated, I plan to keep this truck to at least the 300,000 mile mark.

 

[HBarlow]

Belts, hoses, and fresh coolant?

 

[MickeyMiller]

What HBarlow said plus brake and power steering fluids. Re-charge the AC and I'd probably replace the U-Joints just so I wouldn't have to worry. Have a good shop inspect the front end.

 

[MickeyMiller]

Oh... one more thing... Lift Pump. If you still have the original 'on the filter' lift pump at least pick up a spare from Geno's!

 

[CB HUNTER]

Thanks for your replys! I have been a little spooked about the Lift Pump with this many miles and no issues, your advice on having an extra one is good advice, I will go with that and also HBarlo adivse on hoses also. I did replace the fluids when i replaced the water pump. I 'll have The AC Charged up and U joints replaced too. I usally replace the Belt every 75,000. I had one blow on a trip once and I was stranded, I always keep a extra one with me . Is it usual to get 200,000 out of a 47re with no problems, should I be concerned here? What do you all think?

 

[CPittman]

200K miles has cost me $12,585. 08 with the following list; oldest to most recent. OBTW, $5,500 of that was the DTT transmission.



RR Fan clutch

BFGoodrich Tires

Replace fuel lift pump - replaced under warranty

Toyo Open Country Tires

Transmission Svc / RR Serpentine Belt / Front Brakes / radiator flush & fill

New DTT transmission and Mag Hy-Tec double deep pan

Front U-joints

BFGoodrich Tires

Water Pump / Adjust Valves

Changed oil from Rotella T to Delo 400, changed air filter, changed fuel filter,

Changed two rear shocks - OEM Mopar parts

Replace both rear u-joints on drive shaft

Changed fluid in both differentials, transfer case, transmission - new trans filter

Changed two batteries

Front U-joints

Upper & lower ball joints

Front Brakes

Front pinion seal

Front end alignment

BFGoodrich Tires

Throttle Position Sensor

Replace two front hub assemblies - NAPA parts / Dodge labor

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

In addition to others' recommendations to replace belts, hoses, lubes, coolant, and the lift pump, I recommend you strongly consider new injectors. I have seen a lot of failures at about your mileage. They are cycling twice per firing event instead of once like with older Turbo Diesels. So, the wear is sort of like 400,000 miles in a 12-valve or 24-valve Turbo Diesel. Also, they (and the rest of the injection system) are very prone to wear and damage from particulates with the high fuel rail pressure—even more so with a pressure box added for performance. The check valve seat erodes with time, causing timing retard. Just as slightly bigger RV injectors help mileage in a 24 valve, and the 215 HP injectors help other 12-valves that came with smaller injectors, so you will find that stage 1 injectors such as the Dynomite Diesel Performance products will help mileage. They can supply complete new injectors, as they are a Bosch dealer. You should replace your fuel filter with the 7 micron Fleetguard available from Geno's Garage, and auxiliary 2 micron or 3 micron filters are very beneficial. Since you may be getting a lift pump anyway, you might consider the FASS system to provide a high quality lift pump, excellent filtration, and air removal from the diesel fuel.

 

[rbattelle]

In addition to others’ recommendations to replace belts, hoses, lubes, coolant, and the lift pump, I recommend you strongly consider new injectors.



You should replace your fuel filter with the 7 micron Fleetguard available from Geno’s Garage, and auxiliary 2 micron or 3 micron filters are very beneficial. Since you may be getting a lift pump anyway, you might consider the FASS system to provide a high quality lift pump, excellent filtration, and air removal from the diesel fuel.

I don't know, Joe, he's gone this long and my inclination would be "don't fix what isn't broken". While I agree with changing regular maintenance items like hoses and belts, I'm not so sure about replacing the injectors without any signs of a problem. If it were me, I think I'd leave it alone.



The advice to switch to the 7-micron filter is good (is there even an option for 10 micron anymore?).



Ryan

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

If you are unsure whether new injectors would be needed, you can send them to a good Bosch shop like Dynomite Diesel for testing. They can tell you if the fuel return rate is getting high due to wear at the check ball/seat or other sealing areas, and whether the solenoid is working well in each injector. I have seen enough failures, usually without any warning, at that mileage on 2003-up Turbo Diesels, so that I think the problem is worth considering.