2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2000 + Alum. Wheels on a pre-2000 truck

[JGK]

I'm looking to swap my steel chromies for some aluminum alloy ones off a newer truck so I can put tires on that require 8" wide wheels. I have a few questions for anyone that has done this.



From what I read, the ball joints on the front need to be ground off just a scoche in a non-critical area and the outside of the rear drums need to be turned down just a bit to fit inside the wheel. I've put a wheel up to the front hub and the grinding of the ball joint looks pretty straight forward - no biggie.



However, regarding the rear drums, how much does the diameter need to be reduced? That is, how much needs to be machined off (what should the final diameter be after machining)? Is it just limited to the "shoulder" at the lip of the drum or does it apply to the little fins around the circumference? Does the backing plate that all the brake hardware attaches to need to be addressed? What was the cost of having the drum machined (one local shop estimated $50 to $100 per drum depending on the time - that's nuts!)?



Anything else?



Thanks in advance,

-Jay

 

[Joe Mc]

Jay- I too have the dreaded potato chip chrome wheels. One was so bent that I had to change to the spare during the vacation trip. With the cost of the factory aluminum wheels and all the work that is required (god forbid grinding away some of the balljoints) + the cost of trimming the outside of the drums (I think 1/16 of an inch) it's probably cheaper to purchase some aftermarket wheels. That's the route I'm going / trying to go I haven't found anything I like yet though, at least that I think is worthy of my money.



Have you found anything? The Alcoa's are nice but I can only find them @ 6" wide and if I'm paying to change wheels I want at least an 8" wheel to install my 305's on.

 

[JGK]

Joe,



I found a set of nearly new OEM alloys for $250. The little bit that has to be ground off the ball joints is not enough to be a concern. If I can find someone to turn down the drums for a reasonable cost (like $50 or less), then this becomes cost competitive.



Wheels are not a hot issue with me - too much money for strictly cosmetics - but they should look good. I haven't found anything I like for less than about $120 a wheel.



-Jay

 

[Oxjockey]

Interesting. So did they switch the ball joint mounts in 2000?



Bryan

 

[Big_Daddy_T]

I originally purchased a 2000 set like you are talking about but the fitment was ailing. I didnt trust my driving style with a thinner brake drum in the rear. Im notorious for melting brakes. Im not content until the rotors glow. So I finally gave in and bought a good set of cast aluminum wheels. They are custom order but they sure do look good.

I think for 315s only, 1/3 in" wider than 305s, you need at least a 9" wheel. So the question I pose is will a 305 fit on a 8" wheel? I have 16x10s just in case I want to go to 13. 5" tire width.

 

[Whitmore]

I will sell you my 2001 alloy rims OEM units for 250 if you want them... ... ... ... ... ... Kevin

 

[JGK]

Oxjockey,



From what I read, yes, the ball joint setup is slightly different on 2000 and up trucks.





Big_Daddy_T,



From my research, I believe most 305s will fit on 8" wheels. I saw them mounted on at least 1 truck, though I can't say for sure the were the stock wheels (wasn't looking). These were Goodyear MTs.



Can't say if 315s would work in all cases, but on the Tire Rack site, the Goodyear MTs in a 315 size will fit on an 8" wheel.



-Jay

 

[Oxjockey]

Originally posted by JGK

Oxjockey,



From what I read, yes, the ball joint setup is slightly different on 2000 and up trucks.



-Jay

On my 95, they were pressed into the knuckle, ala older ball jointed Dana 44s. On my 2002, the ball joints are in the axle yokes, ala TJs. Just my observations, I wondered when they changed over.



Bryan

 

[MikeR]

You will also have to grind notches into the tie rods because the rims and wheel weights will hit them when you try making any kind of tight turn.



After all that grinding on my old truck, I didn't feel to good weakening all those components that much. That's why I never recommend doing it again.



-Mike

 

[LandShark]

JGK: I actually have done this so I could use some late model wheels on my '95. Only about 1/16" needs to come off the shoulder. Nothing off the cooling fins. There is a lot of metal there, so I didn't worry about it. Be sure to bring a wheel with the drum so you can check final clearance.



Most brake drum grinding machines can be set up to do the job. Trick is to find a local type shop with a operator with at least 1/2 a brain who is willing to take 5 minutes to set it up. I was charged the normal drum refinishing fee (about $8 per drum).



I didn't need to do any grinding up front on my '95 4x4.

 

[SGrady]

Whitmore what do you think it would cost to ship those rims to Massachusetts? Also would 245's be too small for them?

 

[Whitmore]

SGrady ??? I dont know on the shipping , and I aint much of a wheel guru so I cant help ya there either

 

[MikeR]

The 95's are a little different up front, no grinding need. The 98-99, yes it does.



245 tires will be way to narrow for an 8" rim. The 265's are barely wide enough.



-Mike

 

[JGK]

MikeR,



Thanks for the info. Your comment about the tie rods needing a little grinding was about the only thing I could think of that I haven't checked. How much, if you can quantify it some how, did you have to grind the tie rods? I assume this has to be done to both front wheels. Let's assume I could get the tire dealer to use stick-on weights or some such for the inside to avoid the kind you pound on at the edge of the rim. This would hopefully reduce the amount of grinding needed.



I wouldn't think a reduction of say, 10% of the diameter of the rod would be significant, but I certainly wouldn't remove much more than that. This needs to be the last of the mods that needs to be done - grinding-wise - or I'm going to reconsider the idea.



LandShark,



I pulled a drum off last evening and checked it over. Yes, you're right, there is a lot of metal there and even an 1/8" or more could be removed without it being a problem, it appears.



Thanks again,

-Jay