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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2000 lo power problem after batteries were replaced , need some ideas ...

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Rear End Service Info Needed

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guy on another site i frequent has this problem , i asked about a good dealer in west palm area and didn't get any responses ??? maybe this will work better ???



here is his post ...

the batteries in my 2000 ram 3500 went bad in my truck. no problem, they replaced the batteries under warranty but ever since, the truck is low on power. the low end power seems to be fairly normal but after 2400 rpm this thing is a dog. it actually pulls better if i let off the accelerator and let the truck shift at 2400 instead of keeping it floored. it used to pull hard all the way to 3150 rpm. in 2nd gear, it takes about 12 seconds to go from 2400 to 3100 rpm with the pedal to the floor. needless to say, it never used to be this way. the dealer tech say's there's nothing wrong with the way it runs. i've owned the truck since it was new so i know better than that. it has 35000 miles on it and doesn't show any trouble codes. they want ME to pay for chassis dyno time to prove there's a problem. could there be a relationship to the power problem and the dead

batteries (computer) or just a coincidence?



says they also replaced the lift pump as it was it fell in the recall that was on a certian run off early 00 , he has lookecd and can't find a reflash sticker either .



any ideas , i'm at a loss , he's afraid to check anything himself for fear of them denying a further warranty claim and voding it . he is a very talanted engine builder , so he knows his way around an engine .



thanks guys .
 
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Maybe a boost leak? If the dealer pulled the intercooler to manifold pipe to install a new pump they may have installed a leak.

Just a thought.

Other then that he may check for codes. Something this drastic ought to set one. His check engine light isn't on?
 
I would almost guarantee they reflashed his truck without his knowledge.



Mine does the same thing after they reflashed mine. It use to pull hard in the upper RPM's now after 2400 RPM's you can feel it bog down and it is real noticable with a load. I almost forgot about this until you brought it up. I guess I just let my truck shift at about 2200-2400 Rpm's while towing, with power upgrades I have I don't need anymore RPM's for towing so I don't worry about it.



It sure would be nice to have it pull hard all the way through the RPM band though, maybe I need to have my comp box reprogramed to the race mode:D, if I'am not mistaken I think that is the only difference between the two comp boxes, one uses factory fueling data and the other just keeps adding fuel all the way to the RPM limiter.



Ron
 
I believe the Drag versions compensate by adding what the computer is taking away. So where the regular Comps start to fall off, the Drags keep on going to red-line.

I think Ronsram is onto something. That is my worst fear about going to the dealer.
 
I bet Ron hit the nail on the head here. You know they plugged in there box to the computer, they do it anytime they work in the truck. I have watched them. Bring the truck in for a bad lift pump, they hook up there computer. Why? First thing the tech does is check the rev levels of the software. last time I was in there he said "you know, there is a new level code for the body computer, Being as your out of warrantee, do you want a price of installing it?".



At the time I was "UP" on what rev of code did what. The new rev of code fixed a problem with the lockup converter, only problem is my truck is a manual. I passed on it.



but if its under warrantee, you bet there going to flash it.





Originally posted by ronsram1999

I would almost guarantee they reflashed his truck without his knowledge.





Ron
 
I guess I'm lucky, the diesel tech at the dealership I go to (well, i've been 3 times... clock spring, power module, and track bar) always ask if I want him to update the ecm or leave it alone (i'm still running the one that came with the truck). This is why I drive an hour past 2 other dealerships to go to them.
 
thanks guys ... .



he checked intercooler clamps , they are tight , he's going to check the boost , no codes and no check engine light , i have a feeling it was reflashed . i have to take mine in for a couple things before my warranty expires in 10000 miles , nothing requiring them to connect the computer , i'm seriously debating on cutting the underdash connector off . i'm going to talk the the dealership first and find out if i can get them to not connect , if they give me any crap i'll have the service rep follow me to the truck so he can watch me cut it off and put it in my pocket ...



ronsram , did they afix a sticker under the hood stating they did a reflash ? if not i would look into what fines the EPA will levy against the dealership for not doing it , i think its required under law and you should report them ...
 
Mopar muscle,dont bring yours in with taking precautions,all 2000My trucks are supposed toi be reflashed no matter what they come in for,due to excessive emissions,Id put a padlock on the connector,or cut the data wires,to ensure they dont flash it,you wont lose any power,but mileage will go down the tubes if its anything like mine. I wouldnt trust the dealer to not do it,and no matter why they flash it,it gets all the latest updates.
 
I was going to suggest just drilling a hole and pad locking it so they can not plug in.



Yes they put a sticker on the radiator cowl stateing two reflashes, one for the ECM 18-11-99 the other for the PCM 18-25-99.



I took the truck in back when DC was touting the reflashs for improved power and better fuel mileage, damn reflashes made things worse instead of better :mad:



Ron
 
Don't know if this will help, try disconnecting both batteries for several hours. Once hooked back up, turn the key on and depress

the go pedal to the floor and let it up slow. If the computer did not know where top and bottom was it should refresh its memory. Want I don't is how long it takes for the computer to loose its mind before you hook the batteries up again.



Dave
 
I think DHawthorne nailed the problem... you have to recalibrate the APPS sensor when you disconnect your batteries.



After reconnecting batteries, you turn the ignition switch to the 'on' position (do not start the truck). Slowly press the accellerator pedal all the way to the floor, then slowly release all the way, and you are done! This step recalibrates the ECM to the APPS.



-Mike
 
MikeR,

So your saying I have been driveing around for two years with low power after 2400 RPM's because the ECM has not learned where the APPS settings are? This would be great if that is the cause. Please elaborate some more.



Ron
 
Bringing this back to the top.



I need to know if the APPS could be off for two years, wouldn't it recalibrate itself over time of zero to full pedal throttle while driveing?



I understand that you made the comment as something to try for a solution to his low power situation but could it really be off for two years, as in my situation.



I know I will try the disconnect and recalibrate thing myself just to see but if anyone has an explanation of how it could be off for so long or would it simply adjust over time and in my case it was the reflash that caused the low power over 2400 RPM's.



A curious mind needs to know!



Ron
 
Just found this post again.



No, I have not tried it due to time constrants. Maybe if I spend less time here and more time in the garage it would help. :D



Ron
 
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