Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2001 24 valve HO no start

[Gordon Maney]

Gordon,

P1694 = No CCD Messages Received From ECM.

Order a fuel pressure test gauge

Fuel Pressure Tester w/ Schrader Connection

Hook up the gauge on the schrader valve test port on the VP-44. Bump the starter, note pressure. Next start the engine, note pressure. If less than 12 psi, the lift pump is bad and should be replaced.

If you are gonna go with an OEM stock type pump, get the Aertex pump from your local NAPA or Oreilly auto parts store:

More Information for AIRTEX E7153

RockAuto Parts Catalog

You MUST have a minimum of 12 psi at ALL times or potential damage to the VP-44 can happen.

The best albeit expensive fix is an Air Dog or FASS.

Once you have verified good fuel pressure and clean filter and the engine will run you still need to conduct a full power pull in high gear to see what your fuel pressure will drop to.

Once you have 5 successful no fault starts, the ECM should clear the P1694 fault code.

You still need to troubleshoot what caused the P1694. A bad ECM, corrosson on ECM plug, bad grounds, bad batteries can wreak havoc with the ECM.

Good luck and hope this helps.

I am going to order a pressure gauge today.

One thing I wonder about, thinking out ahead, is the possibility that the lift pump is not getting 12 volts through its leads to trigger it. Do we ever see that? What is the source of this 25 second signal we hope to see during the bumping of the starter? A computer?

The pump I put on is a brand new Cummins pump, just like the original, I got three or four years ago.

Continuing to reveal how little I know... . what and where is the ECM? I recall learning that the truck as a computer that is from Cummins, and another that is from Chrysler. Are you meaning the engine's computer? ... . and where is it located?

At times I have thought it would be useful to have a remote fuel container I could use to run the engine, supplying it right at the injection pump. Does anyone ever do that?

Also, out of curiosity, how did you mount the airtex pump?

Thanks, gentlemen, for the continued help.

 

[Chief USA]

I am going to order a pressure gauge today.



One thing I wonder about, thinking out ahead, is the possibility that the lift pump is not getting 12 volts through its leads to trigger it. Do we ever see that? What is the source of this 25 second signal we hope to see during the bumping of the starter? A computer?



The pump I put on is a brand new Cummins pump, just like the original, I got three or four years ago.



Continuing to reveal how little I know... . what and where is the ECM? I recall learning that the truck as a computer that is from Cummins, and another that is from Chrysler. Are you meaning the engine's computer? ... . and where is it located?



At times I have thought it would be useful to have a remote fuel container I could use to run the engine, supplying it right at the injection pump. Does anyone ever do that?



Also, out of curiosity, how did you mount the airtex pump?



Thanks, gentlemen, for the continued help.

The lead to the lift pump gets power put through it by the ECM:



ENGINE CONTROL MODULE

DESCRIPTION - ECM

The ECM is bolted to the left side of the engine

behind the fuel filter. It is a separate component

and can be serviced.



During intial start up, you may or may NOT get an actual 12 volts due to the ECM receiving its power from battery power, especially if the grid heater cycles when you turn the ignition key on. The ECM will send whatever voltage it gets from the battery. Hence my first suggestion to check your batteries and ground connections as well. If these are fault, they can cause problems with the ECM and its functions.



The Cummins pumps are for the most part JUNK. Some last a very long time and some don't last long at all. VERY poor design. Carter has even stopped production of this particular design pump as I understand it and now the Airtex design is replacing it.



Vulcan Performance also sells the Airtex pumps in various configurations that might be more to your liking.



The basic replacement Airtex pump is a direct drop in replacement pump for the Cummins/Carter orginal pumps and mounts in the SAME location on the engine using the SAME hardware and electrical connector. The location of the pump on the engine is as much a part of the fuel pressure problem as the poorly designed pump was as it is mounted higher than the fuel tank and far away from it.



I got tired of replacing the Cummins Campaign pumps which was supposed to be a better design than the orginal, so a friend and I installed an Air Dog 150 on my truck since it is not stock.



I installed the Airtex pump on my wife's 2001. 5 truck but I purchased one of the Vulcan Performance pump relocation kits and mounted the Airtex pump on the frame of the truck below the fuel tank. This works VERY well for a STOCK truck but you STILL NEED to install a fuel pressure gauge in the cab to alert the driver to low or no fuel pressure to avoid damage to the VP-44.



I originally installed the Airtex pump on my wife's truck in the stock location on the drivers side of the engine. This was a pretty easy install/replacement and it worked pretty good. I would STRONGLY recommend installing the Airtex pump on the truck frame below the fuel tank using the Vulcan Pusher Pump Kit:



Draw Straw II 1/2 in. draw tube and 1/2 in. pushlock fitting



This is the kit and setup I installed on the wife's truck and it works GREAT. Call Eric at Vulcan and he can set you up with a kit and pump modified to bolt right in.



Since my wife's truck is bone stock, I installed the fuel pressure gauge on the steering column using this mount and gauge:



Fuel Pressure Tester w/ Schrader Connection



ISSPRO EV fuel pressure Kit



Again, talk to Eric at Vulcan and he can set up with the proper fittings and adapters to tap into the fuel hose which makes the fuel pressure gauge install a LOT easier and user friendly mounting the fuel pressure isolator.



Before you do anything more with the fuel system, double check your batteries using a hydrometer to check each battery cell to verify the battery is good. Next clean all the connectors and battery terminals on the battery. Verify your frame ground connections are good and solid too. This should eliminate the batteries as any potential problem.

 

[djosip]

Had a similar problem with my 2001. 5 about 2000miles ago. code generated indicated lack of communication between ecm and vp44. Didn"t like the intermittent nature of problem and the fact that during the times the truck would start and run okay, it ran perfect. Researched shop manual wiring diagrams for anything outside the vp44 which may cause the problem and found that the (fuel system relay) was a possibility and I swapped it out with a like relay,(fog lamp relay) and low and behold the problem no longer exists!!!!! The only function of this relay is the turn on the Vp44. Relays which are electro/mechanical devices, can have sticking contacts,poor contacts,etc. I WAS SUPER-HAPPY that I didn"t go the VP44 replacement route.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Had a similar problem with my 2001. 5 about 2000miles ago. code generated indicated lack of communication between ecm and vp44. Didn"t like the intermittent nature of problem and the fact that during the times the truck would start and run okay, it ran perfect. Researched shop manual wiring diagrams for anything outside the vp44 which may cause the problem and found that the (fuel system relay) was a possibility and I swapped it out with a like relay,(fog lamp relay) and low and behold the problem no longer exists!!!!! The only function of this relay is the turn on the Vp44. Relays which are electro/mechanical devices, can have sticking contacts,poor contacts,etc. I WAS SUPER-HAPPY that I didn"t go the VP44 replacement route.

Are you saying all these relays are in the same panel? Where are they located?

 

[Huff N Puff]

djosip is correct

Are you saying all these relays are in the same panel? Where are they located?

If the relay dosn't turn on the ECM nothing run by the ECM will work including the ECM bus the relay is in the Power distribution center under the hood next to the drivers side battery. After you replace the relay it would be a good idea to test the current draw on the relay cause the relay could be over loaded by one of the devices the ECM powers up. e. g a bad fuel pump.

 

[Gordon Maney]

If the relay dosn't turn on the ECM nothing run by the ECM will work including the ECM bus the relay is in the Power distribution center under the hood next to the drivers side battery. After you replace the relay it would be a good idea to test the current draw on the relay cause the relay could be over loaded by one of the devices the ECM powers up. e. g a bad fuel pump.

Due to how the relay plugs into that box, how are you suggesting I make connections to do a current draw test?

The brown UPS truck dropped off my pressure test gauge ordered from Geno's Garage. I am in the middle of a bunch of work, so won't have any chance to use it until next week. Dang.

My concern is that the lift pump may not be getting a control voltage. I checked the fuse and substituted a relay, but it does not run after the starter bump, as far as I can tell.

I am guessing I will have to diagnose that, but will try the pressure gauge first.

So... how would you make those series connections, given the inaccessibility of the spade terminals?

 

[Gordon Maney]

I did make up some test leads, allowing me to test for a voltage at the lead supplying the lift pump and to power up the lift pump directly from the battery.

The lead to the lift pump is only supplying 6. 5 volts, and it is constant. It does not appear only after bumping the starter, it appears once the key is turned to ON.

I powered up the lift pump. I heard a sound I have never heard in 129,000 miles; the lift pump. The truck has never made a sound after bumping the starter. I am thinking it may never have run.

When I power up the pump, the mechanical gauge I have connected to the test port first went up to 15 psi, and then after a time settled down to 7-10.

I loosened three injector lines and cranked it. I could only get fuel to come out one of them. I cranked and let that one bleed a bit, then closed it. The others would never leak any fuel.

That suggests to me the pump rotor is stuck, as someone's diagnostic text indicates. I am not sure that seems consistent with the operational history of the engine, and how recently it has run for short times, at least.

Is there another way to see if the rotor is stuck?

Thoughts? Thank you.

 

[Chief USA]

Try bleeding some of the other 3 injectors if you can get to them. The rotor may be stuck but if you can get fuel bled to 2 or 3 injectors, you may be able to start the engine and push the fuel to the other injectors IF the rotor is not stuck. When I ran my engine out of fuel due to a fault fuel sending unit in the tank, I bled the 1st 2 injectors and that was enough to get the engine started and the IP pushed the fuel through the other injectors and bled them out and the engine ran fine after a few seconds of running rough. Might be worth a try.

 

[Gordon Maney]

I am curious, is there any other sort of test to determine if the rotor is stuck?

I will try what you suggest. Thank you.....

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Gordon,

I have not read all 29 posts on this thread so the following may have already been suggested. The VP44 can be hooked directly to the battery and if the VP is good the engine will start and idle. Running this test will only prove that the VP is good or bad as it bypasses all electronic control of the VP (ECM, APPS, etc. ). The lift pump must be working to do this test, or at least provide fuel through some other measure in place of the lift pump.

Follow the directions in post 4 for hooking + and - to the VP.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[LeoRideout]

Sounds like it may be the computer on the vp44,mine went out at about 118,000 to br sure check out biuechip diesel.com, they have a proceedure to follow to make sure thatn is what the issue is,you want to make sure this is not a cheap fix. good luck