Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Extreme Truck Camper (XTC) DRIVETRAIN BUILD
Last week I consummated the final piece of my drivetrain build. Sean @River City Differential changed the differential gear ratios from 3.54:1 to 4.10:1. Am I happy with the result? An unqualified yes is the answer. Why would I change? It’s really a feel you get with the different loads you put on the truck and whether you need taller (lower numerically), or shorter (higher numerically) differential gears, or, can you live with what you have. Let’s review the why's and wherefores of the process.
I purchased a new 2001.5 Dodge 2500, 4WD, Cummins HO, that had an NV5600, 6 speed manual transmission with a 27% overdrive. This is important to know in developing a re gearing strategy. In stock form the truck came with 265/75R16 tires (31.5" diameter) on 7.5" inside, bead to bead cast aluminum wheels, 3.54:1 pigs, 7125 pounds with the driver and a full tank of fuel. 6826 pounds with 5 gallons of Mexican Fuel and no driver. With no load the stock drivetrain was the bomb. There was plenty of acceleration after the turbo spooled up. It was my daily drive for two years in L.A. traffic. I put 50K miles on the rig during those two years and enjoyed 18 to 19 mpg to boot.
TOWING
Subsequently we started to flat tow the rock crawling Jeep Scrambler around the western U.S.
#ad
With no weight in the truck bed and with those big and heavy 37” tires on a 4500 pound, up armored Jeep, the tail sometimes wagged the dog. The woe while flat towing was the stopping the train. On the way to Moab, we almost lost it on Hwy 70 on some of those 8% downgrades when the tail wanted to wag the dog. Then we bought a used Lance Camper which added another 2600 pounds (loaded) to the rear axle of the truck and the tail stopped wagging the dog. We then purchased a car trailer to carry the Jeep, towed by the truck, with a camper in the bed. Now we're up to 16.5 K pounds of rolling thunder. It was then that I finally broke down and bought a little commuter car and parked the truck.
SUPER SINGLES
Along the way I put Mickey Thompson 16x12" wide cast aluminum wheelson the rear axle. The first set of tires were Nitto Mud Grapplers in a 33x14.50R16 size. They wore like iron and were singularly the noisiest tire I’ve ever used. I could not wait for them to wear out, but they lingered on for 4 long years before replacements arrived. Subsequently, I found some of the last of the Mickey Thompson 375/65R16 (33x15.50R16) super singles. These were the ticket. Quiet; AT tread; the widest and likely the best tire I’ve ever had on a 4WD. Deflated to 20 pounds, they were absolutely the best sand tire ever for a heavy rig. The contact patch was about 15” long and 17” wide. That translates to a whole lot of floatation.
#ad
#ad
The wheels had a 3600 pound load rating, which was marginal but never materialized as a problem until the chipping.The tires were heavy and were E-rated at 3750 pounds, but well within the weight limits of Dana’s 11,000 pound rear axle. Chrysler Corp rated the same Dana 80 axle @7500pounds, for safety reasons, mostly to do with the stock tire loading. My problem was the cracking and chipping of the cast aluminum wheels. The reason they took such a beating is that the rear axle track was too wide for narrow jeep trails. I hit all the rocks that were sloughed off to the side by much narrower rigs. But the tires were tre tough. They’re in the sand-only stack now.
#ad
ARCHAIC 16 INCH WHEELS AND SAND
There is a special reason for sticking with 16” wheels and tires when everyone else is following the bandwagon to 17” and 18” wheels. We use our TC on sand; beach sand; sand dunes; sandy roads. The advantage is having the experience to know when to quickly deflate the tires and how far to deflate: and, of course, how to get those big meats back up to highway pressure when you get back to terra firma. This technique was developed during 50 years of using 4WD’s on sand. My first sand stick: May, 1965, Eastern Sierra Nevada near Big Pine, CA. The motational device? A 1949 Willys Ute Wagon; Chevy 265 V-8; 5.38 gears; Studebaker 33% overdrive;Dana-27/Dana-41.
#ad
Lost in bottomless sand, 2004
:
#ad
16” wheels and tall tires give you the most sidewall for deflating on sand. When researching 17” tires I found that they, as a group had less load carrying capacity. 18” had the highest load capacity of the 16, 17, and 18” tires. But they had a shorter sidewall dimension for deflating. If I were to do a wheel swap again, I would go with 18” steel wheels and install the tallest tires that would fit in my fender wells to eliminate the disc brake fitment problem.
STEEL WHEELS
Unhappy with aluminum wheels, it was time to investigate steel wheels. After looking around for high capacity steelies and coming up dry, I called Stockton Wheel and got in the queue to have four, 16” x 10" wide steel "Power Wagon", 8 on 6.5", lug centric wheels with two different backspacings. These had a stupid high load rating mostly because of the 1/2”solid steel plate center hubs. They are heavy...ugh; but should last into the next Ice Age. Yes, I know about unsprung weight and the negative effect it can have on acceleration and mpg, but I thought the pro of the extra capacity would off set the con of the unsprung weight. Besides, I’m getting older so speed and acceleration are receding from my lexicon
.
#ad
Knowing that most people who have wide truck wheels have a very shallow back spacing (3.5" to 4.5") and how that application over time chews up the front wheel bearings and causes bump steer because of the side loading on the spindles, I opted for the front 10" wheels to have the stock Corp. backspacing of 6.25" and the rears to have a wider track via the 4.5" B.S. Alas, in the end the front 6.25” B.S. is imbedded in the Burgess Shale and was not going to work. Why? The Stockton wheels use older H.D. DOT approved rims that have a neck down after the first 4-4.5” from the inside bead. Here is a comparo between a stock Dodge 7-1/2” wide, inside bead to bead steel wheel on the left and the 10” wide Stockton Wheel, inside bead to bead steelie on the right. Note the quick neck down on the right wheel (coming up from the floor mat) and the extended wider area on the left wheel which fits comfortably over the disc brakes, front or rear.
#ad
Here comes the woe: the front Stockton wheels with the 6.25” B.S. would not clear the disc brakes. I talked to some off-road builders, like my Brother John, (JR on the Pirates of the Rubicon page) and they said you could grind down about an 1/8” of the brake parts to make them fit, no problem. However, I was queasy about weakening the cast brake hardware. I also have a pair of 1/2” aluminum spacers that would move the wheel out away from the brakes but that would move the scrub radius of the front wheel farther out and rub on the fender opening on the swing. I’ve already tried and failed with some 10”/4-1/2” B.S. aluminum wheels. I then started to look for alternative front steel wheels and to that end dropped my spare tire down, which had a factory steel wheel. The wheel looked like it was H.D. enough to have a high load capacity, with its 3/16”stamped steel and welded hub with small cut outs. I could find no specs on this wheel except they were a rare commodity made in Brazil and used exclusively on Dodge 2500’s as the steel spare or the lowest trim level truck from 2000 to 2002. I settled on two, 7-1/2” wide, inside bead to bead, steel wheels with a 6-1/4” back spacing on the front axle. I chased down a pair from a Sacramento Scrap Yard, cleaned them up and painted them. Here is the front and rear view: note the big back spacing which gets the offset nicely over the wheel bearings
:
#ad
Turning to the rear axle I test fitted the new 10” wheels to make sure they cleared the disc brakes: no problem on the rear.
#ad
TIRES
The decision was Cooper Discoverer LT315/75R16 AT3’s that would fit these disparate rims and roll at the same speed in 4WD. These are E-rated@ 3860 pounds each; 12.4” section width; 34.49” in diameter; 9.8” treadwidth; weighing in @ 63 pounds; that's per tire. Here they are without the camper:
#ad
And, with the camper on and ready for action:
:
#ad
#ad
BUILDING FOR BEEF
A couple years ago, we set out to beef up the front axle. I half heartedly looked around for a used Dana 70 front axle. Unfortunately, it is built to the 7-1/2” backspacing of 4 and 5 series DRW trucks and with a 10 bolt wheel pattern. This was not going to work. Surveying available components I finally concocted my own derivative of which only the original housing and the 9.75” ring gear and 29 spline pinion remain at Dana 60 spec. The 2000 to 2002 Dana 60 Dodge front axle had 30 spline outer stub shafts and 32 spline, 3-piece axle shafts. Tyler at Geared Up Drive Train installed a SpynTec Dodge Dana 60 Hub Conversion Kit, inner spindle bearing kit, new Dana 70 spindles, 35 spline outer stub shafts, Mile Marker Dana 70 Lockout hubs, factory ABS sensors and studs, Mosier 35 spline front Dana 70 long and short axle shafts, Generation 4 tie rod, drag link, TRE’s, pitman arm and stabilizer, new ball joints, a front 35 spine Eaton Detroit True Trac torque biasing, gear driven limited slip, deleting the central axle disconnect (CAD) and front unit bearings. Using ball joints may have saved Chrysler Corp. a few pennies, but added a sack of woe to the front end of their trucks. The best version of the Dana 60 front axle is the Ford version with a high pinion and actual king pins, not ball joints.
CONTROL ARMS
Some time ago, thinking I was going to appropriate a taller 35” tire, I installed Top Gun Customz longer control arms to the front suspension.They are the 6” lift version, but installed on a 3” lift, the result of which locates the front axle forward 1-1/2”. This gave me the clearance for the scrub radius on a 2nd generation Dodge at the rear of the front fenderopening that I needed.
GEARS
I drove the new 35” tires/wheels around for a week trying to get over how tall the final drive gearing now became with no load in the truck. In our neighborhood I was unable to use 6th gear. So, I searched the net to find out what optional gearing was actually available for this truck. It was then that I came upon http://www.grimmjeeper.com and their terrific gear ratio calculator. You simply select your transmission, put in 2 of the 3 numbers (speed, ratio, or diameter), and out come other parts of the gearing equation. After running their chart I had a choice between 4.10 gears used by Dodge and 4.30:1 gears used as an option mostly in Ford F-450’s but would still fit in my cases. The fact that my 6th gear is 27% overdrive and the engine pulls best between 1700 and 2000 rpm swung me over to the 4.10’s. When I ran the calculator, I noticed that the engine was ostensibly running right at peak torque: @ 1600 rpm in 6th, @ 55 mph with 3.54’s and 32” tires. Change the numbers: 1607 rpm in 6th, @55 mph with 4.10’s and 34.5” tires. Just a coincidence to have it that close. Sean at River City Differential told me on the phone that he had a slightly used set of Dana 60/Dana 80 RGP’s that he could install saving me a lot of cash on parts. The ring gear and pinion are always a married set. Used sets need no break intime. I motored down the hill @ 80 mph, for the last time, and left the truck off for him to do his magic. Actually, he only had the front Dana 60 used parts and had to install a new Dana 80 RGP. Sean called and said my beloved Power Lok for the Dana 80 was now obsolete and no spare parts were available. The Power Lok would not fit on the thicker 4.10 carrier flange without a lot of machining anyway. He gave me a $350 credit for my old Power Lok, carriers and RGP’s. All was not lost as he installed another Eaton Detroit True Trac in its stead. Actually I like it better as the tires do not chirp in tight corners and it’s much more transparent on pavement. I’m now toward the end of a break in period where I’m not going fast; nor accelerating harshly; and driving only 20 to 30 minutes or so at a time, followed by a cool down period for the RGP and oil. There is some metallurgical mystery happening if the gears get too hot or have too much torque applied during the first 500 miles.
So, I’ve come full circle from the beginning of this article. I said I’m liking the result with the 4.10’s but there is more there than meets the eye. The Gross Vehicle Weight with the camper on is 10,400 pounds. Does your engine have enough power to easily sustain a road speed? Other considerations: Tire diameter and unsprung weight. Heavier Wheel size and unsprung weight. Wind resistance at speed. 27% overdrive top gear. The 4.10’s are stronger, on paper, than the 3.54’s, mostly due to the size of the pinion. On my year truck, the printed GCVWR was higher by just changing to 4.10’s. These are all parts of the build puzzle and have their hand in the result. With the camper on now, it feels just right and I can use the overdrive 6th gear again and don’t have to downshift as much on hills. The 245 HP and 505 TQ of the 24 valve Gen II HO Cummins, which seemed so powerful when I bought it, was built at the dawn of the Diesel Warz, and is now an anemic slug compared to the latest generations of diesel power on the market. The clutch should last longer with lower gears as the friction patch per shift is less especially when starting out. There is one more item that comes into play here. Age. I’m no longer a hot rodder or crazy, death defying rockcrawler,
#ad
so our adventures in the TC contain more leisure than ever. I set out to improve the traction, clearance and over-built-ness, and the ability to camp, stealth camp, and travel during any season; in any weather; under any road (or not) condition, for months on end.......... and park in a regular parking place long the way to resupply.
Thanks for reading, jefe
Last week I consummated the final piece of my drivetrain build. Sean @River City Differential changed the differential gear ratios from 3.54:1 to 4.10:1. Am I happy with the result? An unqualified yes is the answer. Why would I change? It’s really a feel you get with the different loads you put on the truck and whether you need taller (lower numerically), or shorter (higher numerically) differential gears, or, can you live with what you have. Let’s review the why's and wherefores of the process.
I purchased a new 2001.5 Dodge 2500, 4WD, Cummins HO, that had an NV5600, 6 speed manual transmission with a 27% overdrive. This is important to know in developing a re gearing strategy. In stock form the truck came with 265/75R16 tires (31.5" diameter) on 7.5" inside, bead to bead cast aluminum wheels, 3.54:1 pigs, 7125 pounds with the driver and a full tank of fuel. 6826 pounds with 5 gallons of Mexican Fuel and no driver. With no load the stock drivetrain was the bomb. There was plenty of acceleration after the turbo spooled up. It was my daily drive for two years in L.A. traffic. I put 50K miles on the rig during those two years and enjoyed 18 to 19 mpg to boot.
TOWING
Subsequently we started to flat tow the rock crawling Jeep Scrambler around the western U.S.
#adWith no weight in the truck bed and with those big and heavy 37” tires on a 4500 pound, up armored Jeep, the tail sometimes wagged the dog. The woe while flat towing was the stopping the train. On the way to Moab, we almost lost it on Hwy 70 on some of those 8% downgrades when the tail wanted to wag the dog. Then we bought a used Lance Camper which added another 2600 pounds (loaded) to the rear axle of the truck and the tail stopped wagging the dog. We then purchased a car trailer to carry the Jeep, towed by the truck, with a camper in the bed. Now we're up to 16.5 K pounds of rolling thunder. It was then that I finally broke down and bought a little commuter car and parked the truck.
SUPER SINGLES
Along the way I put Mickey Thompson 16x12" wide cast aluminum wheelson the rear axle. The first set of tires were Nitto Mud Grapplers in a 33x14.50R16 size. They wore like iron and were singularly the noisiest tire I’ve ever used. I could not wait for them to wear out, but they lingered on for 4 long years before replacements arrived. Subsequently, I found some of the last of the Mickey Thompson 375/65R16 (33x15.50R16) super singles. These were the ticket. Quiet; AT tread; the widest and likely the best tire I’ve ever had on a 4WD. Deflated to 20 pounds, they were absolutely the best sand tire ever for a heavy rig. The contact patch was about 15” long and 17” wide. That translates to a whole lot of floatation.
#ad#adThe wheels had a 3600 pound load rating, which was marginal but never materialized as a problem until the chipping.The tires were heavy and were E-rated at 3750 pounds, but well within the weight limits of Dana’s 11,000 pound rear axle. Chrysler Corp rated the same Dana 80 axle @7500pounds, for safety reasons, mostly to do with the stock tire loading. My problem was the cracking and chipping of the cast aluminum wheels. The reason they took such a beating is that the rear axle track was too wide for narrow jeep trails. I hit all the rocks that were sloughed off to the side by much narrower rigs. But the tires were tre tough. They’re in the sand-only stack now.
#adARCHAIC 16 INCH WHEELS AND SAND
There is a special reason for sticking with 16” wheels and tires when everyone else is following the bandwagon to 17” and 18” wheels. We use our TC on sand; beach sand; sand dunes; sandy roads. The advantage is having the experience to know when to quickly deflate the tires and how far to deflate: and, of course, how to get those big meats back up to highway pressure when you get back to terra firma. This technique was developed during 50 years of using 4WD’s on sand. My first sand stick: May, 1965, Eastern Sierra Nevada near Big Pine, CA. The motational device? A 1949 Willys Ute Wagon; Chevy 265 V-8; 5.38 gears; Studebaker 33% overdrive;Dana-27/Dana-41.
#adLost in bottomless sand, 2004
:
#ad16” wheels and tall tires give you the most sidewall for deflating on sand. When researching 17” tires I found that they, as a group had less load carrying capacity. 18” had the highest load capacity of the 16, 17, and 18” tires. But they had a shorter sidewall dimension for deflating. If I were to do a wheel swap again, I would go with 18” steel wheels and install the tallest tires that would fit in my fender wells to eliminate the disc brake fitment problem.
STEEL WHEELS
Unhappy with aluminum wheels, it was time to investigate steel wheels. After looking around for high capacity steelies and coming up dry, I called Stockton Wheel and got in the queue to have four, 16” x 10" wide steel "Power Wagon", 8 on 6.5", lug centric wheels with two different backspacings. These had a stupid high load rating mostly because of the 1/2”solid steel plate center hubs. They are heavy...ugh; but should last into the next Ice Age. Yes, I know about unsprung weight and the negative effect it can have on acceleration and mpg, but I thought the pro of the extra capacity would off set the con of the unsprung weight. Besides, I’m getting older so speed and acceleration are receding from my lexicon
.
#adKnowing that most people who have wide truck wheels have a very shallow back spacing (3.5" to 4.5") and how that application over time chews up the front wheel bearings and causes bump steer because of the side loading on the spindles, I opted for the front 10" wheels to have the stock Corp. backspacing of 6.25" and the rears to have a wider track via the 4.5" B.S. Alas, in the end the front 6.25” B.S. is imbedded in the Burgess Shale and was not going to work. Why? The Stockton wheels use older H.D. DOT approved rims that have a neck down after the first 4-4.5” from the inside bead. Here is a comparo between a stock Dodge 7-1/2” wide, inside bead to bead steel wheel on the left and the 10” wide Stockton Wheel, inside bead to bead steelie on the right. Note the quick neck down on the right wheel (coming up from the floor mat) and the extended wider area on the left wheel which fits comfortably over the disc brakes, front or rear.
#adHere comes the woe: the front Stockton wheels with the 6.25” B.S. would not clear the disc brakes. I talked to some off-road builders, like my Brother John, (JR on the Pirates of the Rubicon page) and they said you could grind down about an 1/8” of the brake parts to make them fit, no problem. However, I was queasy about weakening the cast brake hardware. I also have a pair of 1/2” aluminum spacers that would move the wheel out away from the brakes but that would move the scrub radius of the front wheel farther out and rub on the fender opening on the swing. I’ve already tried and failed with some 10”/4-1/2” B.S. aluminum wheels. I then started to look for alternative front steel wheels and to that end dropped my spare tire down, which had a factory steel wheel. The wheel looked like it was H.D. enough to have a high load capacity, with its 3/16”stamped steel and welded hub with small cut outs. I could find no specs on this wheel except they were a rare commodity made in Brazil and used exclusively on Dodge 2500’s as the steel spare or the lowest trim level truck from 2000 to 2002. I settled on two, 7-1/2” wide, inside bead to bead, steel wheels with a 6-1/4” back spacing on the front axle. I chased down a pair from a Sacramento Scrap Yard, cleaned them up and painted them. Here is the front and rear view: note the big back spacing which gets the offset nicely over the wheel bearings
:
#adTurning to the rear axle I test fitted the new 10” wheels to make sure they cleared the disc brakes: no problem on the rear.
#adTIRES
The decision was Cooper Discoverer LT315/75R16 AT3’s that would fit these disparate rims and roll at the same speed in 4WD. These are E-rated@ 3860 pounds each; 12.4” section width; 34.49” in diameter; 9.8” treadwidth; weighing in @ 63 pounds; that's per tire. Here they are without the camper:
#adAnd, with the camper on and ready for action:
:
#ad#adBUILDING FOR BEEF
A couple years ago, we set out to beef up the front axle. I half heartedly looked around for a used Dana 70 front axle. Unfortunately, it is built to the 7-1/2” backspacing of 4 and 5 series DRW trucks and with a 10 bolt wheel pattern. This was not going to work. Surveying available components I finally concocted my own derivative of which only the original housing and the 9.75” ring gear and 29 spline pinion remain at Dana 60 spec. The 2000 to 2002 Dana 60 Dodge front axle had 30 spline outer stub shafts and 32 spline, 3-piece axle shafts. Tyler at Geared Up Drive Train installed a SpynTec Dodge Dana 60 Hub Conversion Kit, inner spindle bearing kit, new Dana 70 spindles, 35 spline outer stub shafts, Mile Marker Dana 70 Lockout hubs, factory ABS sensors and studs, Mosier 35 spline front Dana 70 long and short axle shafts, Generation 4 tie rod, drag link, TRE’s, pitman arm and stabilizer, new ball joints, a front 35 spine Eaton Detroit True Trac torque biasing, gear driven limited slip, deleting the central axle disconnect (CAD) and front unit bearings. Using ball joints may have saved Chrysler Corp. a few pennies, but added a sack of woe to the front end of their trucks. The best version of the Dana 60 front axle is the Ford version with a high pinion and actual king pins, not ball joints.
CONTROL ARMS
Some time ago, thinking I was going to appropriate a taller 35” tire, I installed Top Gun Customz longer control arms to the front suspension.They are the 6” lift version, but installed on a 3” lift, the result of which locates the front axle forward 1-1/2”. This gave me the clearance for the scrub radius on a 2nd generation Dodge at the rear of the front fenderopening that I needed.
GEARS
I drove the new 35” tires/wheels around for a week trying to get over how tall the final drive gearing now became with no load in the truck. In our neighborhood I was unable to use 6th gear. So, I searched the net to find out what optional gearing was actually available for this truck. It was then that I came upon http://www.grimmjeeper.com and their terrific gear ratio calculator. You simply select your transmission, put in 2 of the 3 numbers (speed, ratio, or diameter), and out come other parts of the gearing equation. After running their chart I had a choice between 4.10 gears used by Dodge and 4.30:1 gears used as an option mostly in Ford F-450’s but would still fit in my cases. The fact that my 6th gear is 27% overdrive and the engine pulls best between 1700 and 2000 rpm swung me over to the 4.10’s. When I ran the calculator, I noticed that the engine was ostensibly running right at peak torque: @ 1600 rpm in 6th, @ 55 mph with 3.54’s and 32” tires. Change the numbers: 1607 rpm in 6th, @55 mph with 4.10’s and 34.5” tires. Just a coincidence to have it that close. Sean at River City Differential told me on the phone that he had a slightly used set of Dana 60/Dana 80 RGP’s that he could install saving me a lot of cash on parts. The ring gear and pinion are always a married set. Used sets need no break intime. I motored down the hill @ 80 mph, for the last time, and left the truck off for him to do his magic. Actually, he only had the front Dana 60 used parts and had to install a new Dana 80 RGP. Sean called and said my beloved Power Lok for the Dana 80 was now obsolete and no spare parts were available. The Power Lok would not fit on the thicker 4.10 carrier flange without a lot of machining anyway. He gave me a $350 credit for my old Power Lok, carriers and RGP’s. All was not lost as he installed another Eaton Detroit True Trac in its stead. Actually I like it better as the tires do not chirp in tight corners and it’s much more transparent on pavement. I’m now toward the end of a break in period where I’m not going fast; nor accelerating harshly; and driving only 20 to 30 minutes or so at a time, followed by a cool down period for the RGP and oil. There is some metallurgical mystery happening if the gears get too hot or have too much torque applied during the first 500 miles.
So, I’ve come full circle from the beginning of this article. I said I’m liking the result with the 4.10’s but there is more there than meets the eye. The Gross Vehicle Weight with the camper on is 10,400 pounds. Does your engine have enough power to easily sustain a road speed? Other considerations: Tire diameter and unsprung weight. Heavier Wheel size and unsprung weight. Wind resistance at speed. 27% overdrive top gear. The 4.10’s are stronger, on paper, than the 3.54’s, mostly due to the size of the pinion. On my year truck, the printed GCVWR was higher by just changing to 4.10’s. These are all parts of the build puzzle and have their hand in the result. With the camper on now, it feels just right and I can use the overdrive 6th gear again and don’t have to downshift as much on hills. The 245 HP and 505 TQ of the 24 valve Gen II HO Cummins, which seemed so powerful when I bought it, was built at the dawn of the Diesel Warz, and is now an anemic slug compared to the latest generations of diesel power on the market. The clutch should last longer with lower gears as the friction patch per shift is less especially when starting out. There is one more item that comes into play here. Age. I’m no longer a hot rodder or crazy, death defying rockcrawler,
#adso our adventures in the TC contain more leisure than ever. I set out to improve the traction, clearance and over-built-ness, and the ability to camp, stealth camp, and travel during any season; in any weather; under any road (or not) condition, for months on end.......... and park in a regular parking place long the way to resupply.
Thanks for reading, jefe
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