Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2001 Clutch Question

[MAleshire]

My brother-in-law has a stock 2001 with a manual transmission. When the clutch pedal is pushed in, the clutch is not disengaging, so he cannot start it, shift gears, or come to a stop without killing the engine. I'm wondering if this year truck has a hydraulic clutch, and if so, is it a sealed unit, or can you add fluid? Is this a symptom of something simple (needing fluid or an adjustment), or something major, like needing a new clutch.



Thx, Skip

 

[CAPTPHIL]

Pilot bearing is likely shot.
Good Luck Capt Phil

 

[HBarlow]

The truck does have a hydraulic clutch assembly and the hydraulic cylinder could be leaking and unable to disengage the clutch.

I would try to eliminate the clutch hydraulics as the cause before pulling the transmission and clutch. Your bil might get off lucky and cheap if its only the clutch hydraulics.

 

[TboneMan]

Been there, done that... . second vote for the hydraulics being shot.

 

[GCroyle]

Factory hydraulics are non-adjustable, compare to disc brakes being non-adjustable. In spite of Dodge's statement that they cannot be serviced at the component level, they can. They can be bled, but the process is to get the air bubbles out the top, forget about trying to get air bubbles out of a sealed S/C. These systems can easily be tested for integrity by blocking the S/C piston with a steering wheel puller and testing for air by compressing M/C pushrod, I have details if you would like.



Also check your M/C pushrod pin for wear.



Pilot bearings are a prime culprit also.



In my experience Dodge trucks have just about the best release system (pedal assy. to release bearing) that exists in full size P/U's.

 

[DMather]

What's the mileage on it? What type of driving and loads has it had during it's life. This will help narrow it to the most likely.

You have 4 likely possibilities. Three have been mentioned.

1. Pilot Bearing
2. Throw Out Bearing
3. Throw Out Pivot Ball
4. Clutch/Slave Hydraulics

I have done two 'clutch problem" trucks. One with 350,000 miles and the other with 65,000 miles. The high milage truck had a dragging pilot bearing. Everything else, including the stock clutch, was fine. It's life had consisted of very little clutch usage in long distance towing. The low milage truck had nothing left of the clutch, throw out bearing and the hydraulics were "soft". In addition, the pivot ball was warn to 3/4 size. Even with other new parts it didn't work until the ball was replaced. It's life was pulling lawn equipment up and down streets for a lawn service. Lot of clutch usage.

Apply history to your guess. You might be able to narrow down the likely component.

 

[MAleshire]

Doug---the truck has 150k on it. It has been used as a driver with a lot of city driving and clutch usage, and used to pull a 10k 5ver. Probably 30% for towing the 5ver.



Skip

 

[GCroyle]

I like Doug's observation about the size of the ball wearing, very good.



I'll add one caution on R&R for the ball stud, be carefull. We did AndyMan's clutch here at work a couple of years ago, decided to R&R the stud, had our newbie tech go at it, S-N-A-P stud broke off, leaving the threaded stud in the case neat as can be.



About some sweating time later, I had it sucessfully drilled out w/o anything beyone cosmetic damage to a thread or two.



Forks also have a radiused crown where the bearing ears contact, needs crown to flat relationship, not flat to flat as resulting from high service life. We just installed one, about $50 at Dodge.



SERIOUS:

Make sure the grease groove in the bearing collar is GREASED! I just did an install and took out a non-greased collar and bearing remains, it was major ugly. It's in the FSM Chapter 6 typically noted as Clutch Release Component Lubrication Points or such.



Pilot bearings only have a certain service life, and YOU are in control over a lot of how you SPEND that service life.



Put it in N when possible at lights and stops, engage clutch (pedal up) and the meter stops running, pilot goes back to sleep. Pilot is active while engine is running AND input shaft is not turning at same speed, waiting at lights, traffic crawls, shifts etc.

 

[CraigGrant]

When the hydraulic assembly failed on my 01. 5 it was obvious... soft pedal, did not disengage. I was able to circle around the neighborhood, speed shifting my way back home.

 

[LSchulz]

I had the same issue on mine last spring. I replaced the factory hydraulics with a South Bend kit, and all was well. The swap is easy (as long as you can get your hands in there), just a few bolts, two screws for the reservoir, and a clip on the clutch pedal. Try that first, as it's certainly easier than going after the pilot bearing or other anything else.