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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2001 Dash Replacement Help

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Turbo questions

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Hi ya'll. Well I have a busted heater core and figured to do the dash while I was elbow deep in this mess. The dash is breaking all to pieces while I am working on getting it out. My problem is on the right side where the airbag bezel fits the dash oval cutout. I can't figure out how to get the airbag cover out of or off the dash. I have searched every article and back issue on here and every other web forum and cannot find any reference about that. Can someone please tell me what else needs to come loose to get that out? Also, what is the preferred method of putting the front screws back in the dash after the new one goes back on? I need a new windshield as well, should I get the glass out then use the gaping hole to get to those screws??



Thanks for any info you guys can provide!



Mark Mullins
 
Thanks for the replies. So far I have the glove box out and way down in there are some little bolts. But when looking at the new dash panel, it has slots in it like where a "tab" would go, but not really any screw holes... this is what has me confused. I'll work on those bolts tonight and see where that takes me.
 
Thanks for the pic link Jeff. Mine looks just like that mess!
I am wondering if you had any trouble getting the little screws into the front side of the dash cover? (windshield side) Also, did you have to remove the whole airbag module to get the right hand side loose? That is what I am having trouble with. I did get my new OEM heater core in, and didn't even bend anything important! One other thing, there is a screw hole on the firewall on the driver's side of the black painted bracket that holds the computer. Its the top screw hole. The thing is, my memory stinks and I can't remember if there was a bolt already sticking through that slot, or you have to put a bolt in that hole from the firewall side? I have had the truck in there torn down for several days now and working on it in small pieces of time. We have a 10 month old and he's keeping us hopping busy. Thanks for the replies so far and info, its all valuable.
 
Its hard to remember after two yrs. I did remove the airbag and glove box for better access to the dash. I bolted the air duct to the dash before I put it in the truck. I think there were a couple of screws I had a little bit of an issue with. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet for most of the small screws. If you have anymore questions don't hesitate to ask. Good luck... . Jeff
 
UPDATE: I know this thread is getting dated but I wanted to write up what I managed to accomplish on my 2001.

I basically removed every bolt and screw I could reach and a few I couldn't to get everything out of there. I didn't end up with too many parts and screws left over in the little box-o-parts! The airbag came out, glove box, airbag connection, all guards and covers. I did end up not getting one of the bolts back in that goes through the firewall and helps hold the black bracket for the computer on the firewall. I couldn't find where it went in at during my re-install, but everything seems secure nonetheless. The new Dodge factory dash bolt holes didn't line up with 100% perfection, so I used a tapered punch to help "adjust" the fit a little. All screws went back in without too much trouble. I used some baby wipes on a long poker and cleaned out the dust and crap from all the duct work and any other place I could reach. I had purchased the Napa heater core and at the last minute decided to go with the Dodge unit instead. It cost me $198. 00 at my local dealer. The tubes on the factory unit were a bear to get in there without breaking anything, but I managed. I used new heater hoses under the hood. One thing I did at the recommendation of my local diesel shop. He told me to drill out the fitting on the head that feeds the heater core. Or is a return, I'm not sure. Didn't ask. Anyway, I got a bit the same size as where the hose connects and just punched it on through. It was about 3/8 I think. I don't have a before and after but I think it had to help given the reduced flow that tiny hole must have caused.

So, now I have a nice looking dash that a cat won't fall through, heat that rivals my wife's Nissan Frontier, and a new blower motor that isn't gummed up with crud. I also have clean duct work and an overall cleaner rig that should last longer as a result.
 
I'll make my usual suggestion here. Before putting the dash assembly back in place, it is a good idea to check the condition of the snap-in plastic parts that the upper dash cover screws go into. These snap into the firewall just below the windshield. These are essential to holding the dashboard firmly in place. If they are hardened, crumbly or otherwise not in perfect shape, they won't hold the long sheet metal screws firmly. The result is going to be persistent and annoying dashboard squeaks and rattles, as well as the whole dash assembly oscillating up and down on washboard roads. Oo.



I live where it's hot and it is normal to expect plastic parts under the windshield to keel over and die. But this will be a problem anywhere. They may only be available at the dealer, who is likely to be very proud of them. If you can stand the noise, don't worry about this step. I replaced them and was very glad I did. :)
 
I have to replace my heater core in the next couple of months. What's this "head" thing your are referring to?



"One thing I did at the recommendation of my local diesel shop. He told me to drill out the fitting on the head that feeds the heater core. Or is a return, I'm not sure. "



Also, how does the black plastic cover that covers the instrument cluster, radio and heater controls come off? Does it just pull off and snap back in?
 
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The head your asking about it the cylinder head krtcummins. The heater core hoses come out from the core tubes and one goes to the passenger side of the truck and into a black tube heading I think towards the pump or thermostat. (I didn't look) The other tube goes to the cylinder head on the passenger side about 2/3 of the way to the rear of the head. It sticks straight up and isn't hard to find. The heater hose goes right to it and all of that is very open and easy to see when you look in there.



The dash cover on mine is the "agate" color and matches the rest of my truck. I didn't ask about other colors once I talked to them and determined that the color was good to go. It cost me about $430 IIRC, and no freight as it was a stock order. Here in Alaska the freight sometimes can cost more than the part.



Any screws in any power port door shouldn't need to come out to get the dash to come back. All the wiring under the dash is loose enough to move with the dash assembly when it comes rearward. As a matter of fact I didn't take any wires loose on my truck under there except the gauge pillar wires and the heater blower wires. I was replacing the blower motor anyway but otherwise it didn't need to be unhooked. Oh, and the glove box airbag module hookup came out.





The instrument cover bexel just pops right out but you might need to tilt your steering wheel down to wiggle it out of there. Mine is cracked too so I priced it. IIRC it was $360. 00. I have too many numbers in my head right now. Too many things to fix.



Like everyone here has said numerous times, TAKE YOUR TIME. That's with any job really though. But when I had my dash pulled back, if I pulled on it just right, it came down a bit and bumped the 4X4 shifter lever. I heard some ominous cracking noises a couple times but still cannot find anything broken. It'll likely manifest itself in 3 or 4 years when every body part on the dang truck is obsoleted.

Its very easy to crack this plastic on these trucks, must be whatever they used to make it with or something, maybe the UV rays. ?? Who knows, but be careful. Though the job sucks, its a lot cheaper to do it yourself than have a dealer do it. The dealer will likely not even tell you if they break, crack, scrape, scuff, ding, strip, etc, etc any parts in there. They most of the time care about the bottom line and the next sucker. I know, some dealers are awesome and all that and I am not bashing them but it happens. i said that to say this: if you do it yourself, it will be done right and you'll be proud of your handiwork. Good luck.
 
"The head your asking about it the cylinder head krtcummins. The heater core hoses come out from the core tubes and one goes to the passenger side of the truck and into a black tube heading I think towards the pump or thermostat. (I didn't look) The other tube goes to the cylinder head on the passenger side about 2/3 of the way to the rear of the head. It sticks straight up and isn't hard to find. The heater hose goes right to it and all of that is very open and easy to see when you look in there. "



So you drill out the restriction hole in the fitting? To what size? Just open it up to the ID of the fitting? And why are we doing this? Has Dodge screwed up again. I live in the desert, so it's hot during the summer and cold during the winter. But not as cold as Montana, Etc. What's the advantage of doing so?
 
Yes, drill out the little hole to the size the nipple is. I just tried a couple bits til one fit the nipple snugly. I drilled that out then used a drill and abrasive stone to radius the hole I made as it was quite square. I doubt it helps or anything, I am just like that. This procedure was recommended to me by a diesel repair shop owner here in Anchorage. He said it would help the heat. If your truck has good heat and cooling, leave it alone. I wouldn't do a modification just for the sake of hanging out in your garage. Pick stuff that works better or fixes a problem. My truck heated horribly. I first spent $1,600 on an Espar heater for my truck, it never even occurred to me that the heater core could be stopped up. The coolant looked great in the radiator and overflow bottle. It has been flushed at regular intervals when my buddy owned the truck. I have a theory though. The heater core, since it has tiny little galleys for the coolant to flow through gets plugged way easier than a radiator. When the system is flushed, I think small particles get loosened and then find their way straight to the heater core where they stay and render your butt cold because there is no more flow. does this mean you shouldn't flush and clean the system? No, but this is only a theory on my part.

So, I sort of went about my heat fix a** backwards, but the result is good. Finally. So I have a new heater core, drilled out fitting, new heater blower motor and Espar heater. The Espar does work, but now it works better than it did because of the flow. I don't know if the nipple drilling actually improved anything because there's no way to isolate each fix. Take the advice of those who have been there and spent the cash before to do the cheapest and easiest fixes first, then escalate from there.
 
I have a new Dodge heater core sitting on my bench waiting for some good weather to R&R the dash and install it. My heater will blow you out, so a "not enough heat" problem is not an issue. I'll just leave it alone when I replace the core.



I would think the reason the heater core hose nipple has a small hole from the factory would be to regulate coolant pressure to the core. Or to slow down the coolant flow so the core can dissipate the heat.
 
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