Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2001 Fuel Lift Pump won't run the 25 Seconds on Engine bump.

[randall53]

Here’s the update.

I checked the LP first thing this morning by cracking the fuel in-port banjo bolt which is how the shop manual says to purge the LP side of air. I got no flow at all in the 2 seconds of run time. I tried it a couple of times, then listened to the pump with a Harbor Freight stethoscope. It was running, but didn’t sound good at all. Lots of rattling inside and it sounded like it was just spinning free. So, I drained the fuel from the filter canister and decided to change it out. I mean with 140K on that LP, and all I’ve learned on here from all you guys, I decided it was just time anyway and the best place to start. The new pump sounded lots stronger with the stethoscope and I was able to easily bleed the low pressure side and had pretty good fuel flow. I don’t have a gauge yet, but I felt good about the flow I was seeing so I tried to start her up but it wouldn’t fire up at all. The next step was to bleed the HP side at the injectors. With the engine turning over, I did get air out of the first injector, then fuel, but no startup yet. I went to the second one and got air, then fuel and she fired right up and ran like new. I went ahead and cracked 1 more just in case. I didn't get much air at all and it ran smooth. Money is tight, so I bought a stock replacement Precision LP (made in USA) from Oreillys, since they are located about a half mile from my house, and put it back in the stock location. If I have to do it again, I’ll probably move it to the frame. I’m crossing my fingers and hoping the VM keeps on doing its thing and wasn't damaged. Oriellys sells one but it’s $1600.00 tax included. My next project is to install a simple gauge so I can keep watch on the LP from here on out, or maybe the light that Mwilson mentioned above (thanks Mwilson for all the info and suggestions!!) . I never pull much anymore since I retired, a 17 ft aluminum boat and a 4 wheeler, so I’m hoping this pump works out.

Thanks again to everyone that helped me with this. It’s not a hard job at all and I’m sure if I have to do it again, I’ll be able to do it in half the time. I did pull the starter this time, as the manual says, and it’s good I did as it turns out since the shop that replaced the last one for me didn't have one of the bolts very tight at all and the power cable was much too loose. This is another reason I’d rather do anything I can myself, then I know it's done right. I’m thinking it can be done pretty easily from top-side though without this. I put the new LP back on from the top by laying a moving blanket on top of the engine. It was pretty comfy too. LOL.

Maybe next time I can help someone else out!

Randall

Edited because I forgot to say the price of the Precision LP pump. it was $159 + tax. I was glad it was made in USA!

 

[NIsaacs]

Good job!

Nick

 

[code3_cowboy]

I'm recently having a similar problem. I don't hear the 25-30 second pumping sound before kicking over the engine. My driveway has a slight incline to it and the truck is parked nose up. I'm wondering if the fuel is draining backwards, and/or the lift pump is going out. They aren't cheap. Does anyone know if it's more likely an electrical issue than the pump? What did you finally diagnose?

 

[Mingoglia]

I typically replaced my LP every 15 or 20k miles. Anytime the pressure would drop to single digits upon acceleration. I built a pressure gauge, and would hook it up temporarily by taping it to my windshield every time I changed my oil. Would drive down the road, if it was below where I'd like it I replaced it. Lift pumps were about $150 from the Cummins dealer and over twice that from Dodge. Find the part number you need online, then track down a Cummins dealer. Find some online instructions/video on how to replace it. It's not very tough, just a little tight to get to. I used to remove my filter housing and let it hang to gain access.

Permanent fix others have mentioned... but I just replaced them and left it all stock. Worked fine for me, and I had no fear of losing the injector pump since I periodically checked the pressure.

 

[code3_cowboy]

Wow, wasn't expecting to hear that. I tow a lot with my horse trailer. I would replace at least twice a year at that interval. I'm going to look into it, from what I've read it sounds like this is the problem source. I'm going to look at a low pressure warning whether gauge or light, and replace to stock. Thank you for the input.

 

[JR]

Don't sell yourself short on the Carter lift pumps. Especially if yours is mounted on the side of the engine block. There is a reason Cummins only mounted them there 3-4 years out of the 18 years they've been running electric lift pumps. Vibration + heat is hell on an electric motor. Not to mention pumps are more efficient pushing than they are pulling.

 

[code3_cowboy]

I haven't located mine yet, haven't had time to look. Mine is a 2001 24V.

 

[randall53]

I'm recently having a similar problem. I don't hear the 25-30 second pumping sound before kicking over the engine. My driveway has a slight incline to it and the truck is parked nose up. I'm wondering if the fuel is draining backwards, and/or the lift pump is going out. They aren't cheap. Does anyone know if it's more likely an electrical issue than the pump? What did you finally diagnose?

I pretty much updated my thread and included all of the information I could to maybe help someone else in the future. If you'll look at post #21 of this thread I think you'll find what you need. I hope everything works out good. My truck is running great again and I've had no further issues.