2001 steering pump Power

[bdmcrudolph]

PSA sorry in advance for long post. I searched old threads but couldn't find an answer to my issue.

About 3 months ago pulled engine to replace oil pan gasket so had all PS lines loose. Put engine back in truck and all was good for about a month. Then had growling when steering and after a few days had a puddle under truck where PS fluid foamed out the top of reservoir. Let truck sit till fluid settled, topped off as suspected low fluid and was aerated being low. Drove and steered fine about 3 weeks (wife was driving it and did say afterward growled when cold but stopped when warmed up) then foamed out again and now no steering or brakes. Suspected I had damaged pump with low fluid and foaming so purchased new (rebuilt) pump and installed. Started truck and up nothing. No growl but no PS or brakes. Did some research and found threads about debris in hydroboost and need to flush. So disconnected high pressure line from truck and started it up to look for flow from pump. Nothing with the new (rebuilt) pump. Checked the screen and spring, looked clean. Removed pump and started truck to verify vacuum pump was turning and it was. Reinstalled and verified correct engagement of the tangs and still no flow from pump. Took pump back to Advance and swapped it out. Pulled vacuum pump from truck and assembled 2nd new rebuilt pump on the bench verifying correct engagement of the couplings. Installed assembly. Started truck with high pressure line disconnected (yes I filled reservoir ) and no flow. I verified I had vacuum so I know vacuum pump is turning. Seems pretty low odds I would get 2 bad rebuilds. Anyone have thoughts on what to try next? Should there not be flow from the pump with the hose disconnected from hydroboost? I'm stumped. Never had this much trouble with a PS pump on other vehicles.

 

[Joe Mc]

Not questioning anything you did. Wondering if you have an FSM and followed "Power Steering Pump - Initial Operation"? If not here's what it says (mine is a 99, not sure what yours is = no signature...)
1- (engine off) turn wheel all the way left.
2- fill reservoir to proper level and let settle for at least 2 minutes.
3- raise front wheels off ground.
4- slowly turn steering wheel lock-to-lock 20 times with engine off while checking fluid level.
NOTE: Vehicles with long return lines or oil coolers turn wheel 40 times.
5- start engine. With engine idling maintain fluid level.
6- lower the front wheels and let engine idle 2 minutes.
7- turn steering wheel in both directions and verify power assist and quit operation of the pump.
If the fluid is extremely foamy or milky looking, allow vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat procedure.
CAUTION: Do not run a vehicle with foamy fluid for an extended period. This may cause pump damage.

 

[JMcCoy]

X2

 

[bdmcrudolph]

X2

I did do the crank the wheel bleed process on the very first PS pump change, sorry I neglected to state that. I had no steering or brakes even after doing it. I have not done the procedure on subsequent changes when the high pressure line was disconnected and testing for flow from the pump. I could be wrong but I think that process works to get fluid into the hoses not priming the pump. I don't understand why I can't get flow from the pump with the discharge hose open to atmosphere. I had the high pressure hose loose from the pump and filled the reservoir and had fluid come out the port telling me there was fluid in the pump but with engine running no flow out that port.

 

[Joe Mc]

Yea dosen't make sense? The foaming makes me feel there's still air in there somehow. Look at FSM for bleeding hydo boost system. I think it involves disconnecting lines or at least supply to hydro unit. If it was old pump I'd think the psi reg was defective. Here's a thought, wondering if discharge line from pump has an internal integrity issue? Like a flap of the line that only closes off (like a check/one way valve) when pressure is applied. Or perhaps bits of schmutz in other return lines are collecting in pump and clogging suction port in reservoir. This one is very intriguing and I look forward to reading about your further analysis and wish you a quick remedy. Please keep in mind note that FSM stated = WTE do not drive... I'd hate to have you or your lovely bride loose steering and/or brakes

 

[bdmcrudolph]

It's parked, no driving as there is no steering or brakes

Last thing I've done with latest new pump is everything is disconnected (no hoses at all) and filled reservoir, had it dripping out all 3 ports and started truck and no flow from the high pressure port. It is either plugged but doubt it or pump is bad from factory. Hard to believe getting multiple bad pumps but has to be only explanation. I've talked with 2 mechanic friends and they're stumped and to point pump is bad. I have not disassembled these but wondering if something could be on shaft backwards so it doesn't pump??? Just thought i'd throw it out to see if others have seen similar.

 

[Joe Mc]

OK so if I understand correctly the pump attached with no hoses = return or supply. If this is correct you might try this, not sure if it'll work never had to try myself but here goes,
Connect an open hose to return/reservoir tube, make sure reservoir is at cold full, take a funnel that'll fit into the open hose you just connected to return/reservoir tube, fill hose/funnel contraption just until you have funnel filled to bottom, place a towel close to the pump discharge port, then with pump discharge still open (nothing connected) have someone start engine and turn wheel a little. This should show flow out of discharge port and you should see the level in the funnel drop. If all looks good or not you should only have to run the truck for 5-10 seconds to tell, shut it down.

Like I said never had to try this, but essentially you are testing the pump without any other possible line etc in the circuit. Should you have gotten 2 new "bad" pumps, I'd return and source elsewhere. The place you got it at might have gotten a bad run of pumps. Now you could probably use the above test scenario before installing the 3rd (if needed) pump by clamping it into a vise and perhaps rigging something to the pump drive that'll connect to a slow speed drill and try away.

To be sure this "suggested test method" might be viable, chat with a few of your mechanic friends to get their opinion on the method. There might be something that "has to be" hooked up in order to make the pump produce pressure??? Not sure, but would imagine if the reservoir has fluid the pump (pump is a pump right?) should flow not just dribble.

Let us know if this works or not and for sure what you find out in the end result.

 

[JMcCoy]

Seems very odd. Any chance a portion of the plastic packaging pugs remained in one of the hose ports? I know it sounds unlikely, but it wouldn't be the first bad pump to leave an auto parts store. I hope you get this figured out.

 

[bdmcrudolph]

Appreciate the input. With work and coaching basketball it will be at least the weekend before I get back to it. I'll post when I have an update.

 

[Joe Mc]

Look forward to your reply. Really think there's some air or restriction somewhere. I'd continue to repeat the process outlined in initial operation at least several more times. At some point you mentioned new hydro booster...

 

[bdmcrudolph]

Sorry forgot to post update but also wanted to drive truck for a while before I claimed victory. Returned 2nd rebuilt pimp for refund. Purchased new pump (not rebuilt), installed, primed and worked fine. Been driving it several weeks no isdues. I just got 2 bum rebuilds from Cardone.

 

[JMcCoy]

Unbelievable... Glad you're back up and running.

 

[GAmes]

I just got 2 bum rebuilds from Cardone.

No surprise there. Saginaw pumps have been used since the '60s. My old Chevy has one. When you get a reman there is no telling what it originally came from and how close to the maximum tolerances it was rebuilt. I went through 5 lifetime warranty pumps in a year before I finally got smart about it and bought a new one. I must have close to 300k on it by now.

 

[Joe Mc]

Glad you figured it out.

 

[VFabricius]

I know this takes time, especially after all the work you did involving the pumps but post a bad review for that product on the Advance Auto Parts site. I'm gong thru issues with my power steering and my son replaced both lines with the kit from Genos as it was leaking all the time. And he said a line to the vacuum pump was finger tight. I'm crossing fingers my pump hasn't been compromised.

 

[Joe Mc]

A friend of mine installed a remanufactured unit from AZ because he felt his stock unit wasn't giving enough assist and wanted more, wish he would have spoken with me first... Anyway, he had to return 3 times and finally bought new unit from NAPA (I think) and he's finally done with pumps...

My opinion, most reman companies just replace what's "not in spec" and call it good. If you buy new it "should" be new, right? You'd think so. My $0.02