2001 Won't Start

[SmokinGator]

Have always changed my own fuel filter so very familiar with bleeding the fuel system but having trouble...

FASS DDRP is running and getting fuel to VP44

Can only get fuel to #4 injector.

Batteries are fully charged

Don't shoot me but I even tried starting fluid to no avail. I thought it was going to go but still wouldn't start.


I recently ran out of fuel (fuel gauge sending unit bad) and got truck going on side of road, drove it home fine as it ran great. When tried to start again later that day it would turn over but would not start. Made me wonder about an air getting in. This is the first time I've been able to work on it since then so started with changing the filter.

No, I don't have a fuel gauge (I should, I know).

Thanks for any help! I've been a member a long time without posting much but have gained so much from being a member.

Matt

 

[Chief USA]

By chance, did you check for any codes set? The fact that you are only able to bleed #4 injector line gives me cause to consider something may have gone wrong inside the VP-44 when it ran out of fuel or during the bleeding process.

My fuel gauge pulled that nasty trick on me too but I was close to home and got my tool kit and bled the first 3 injectors and then attempted a start and she fired right up but was not real happy about only 3 bled injectors at first but the other 3 quickly cleared and all was well.

I never run mine below 3/4 of a tank now. Later on, while driving, the engine hiccuped on my a missed for a revolution or two which immediately grabbed my attention because diesel rarely miss a firing sequence. I checked for codes as soon as I got home and sure enough P0216 the death code for the VP-44 had set. The engine still ran fine but I was on the last month of my engine warranty and took it in to have the VP-44 replaced.

 

[SmokinGator]

No, don't have a reader - calling O'Reilly's to see if they rent them now.

They don't.

Yeah, I've run the truck by the odometer with great success but it sat for a bit and I'd forgot that I partially filled and didn't reset the odometer so there I was.

 

[SmokinGator]

Turned the key 3 times to see this sequence (I added definitions from looking around at their meaning):

P PCU
------
P1693 Turbo Charge Control Circuit Malfunction or A companion DTC was set in both the ECM and PCM
------
P done
------
P ECU
------
P1689 No Communication Between ECM and Injection Pump Module Data
------
P0230 Fuel pump relay -circuit malfunction
------
P done


Digging in now.

 

[BSeyler]

I’d try a different O’Reilly store. I’ve never been turned down for tool use

 

[KATOOM]

Those codes are not good, as the two combined with no other codes present are usually an indication that the VP has failed. But...before you throw expensive parts at it, check for other possibilities since you claim it wont start on ether.

This is what I would suggest. First, disconnect the grid heater relays in order to assure they dont cycle and cause damage during this test. Take the rubber boot off the intake horn. Have someone crank the engine while you spray some ether directly into the intake horn. There is no reason it shouldnt start other than a very very slow cranking speed and/or very very cold intake charge not allowing enough combustion heat or if the VP is not functioning. If it does start then stop spraying ether and see if it idles.

If it doesnt idle then you need to hot wire the VP in order to bypass everything else and see if the engine will start and idle. Follow these instructions to do that, and then repeat the above process.

 

[SmokinGator]

Ok, I'll give that a try - I was spraying in through the air filter box as I was by myself working on it. Just a couple of quick solid shots is all I gave it.

I'm also going to look at:

• all areas it could be pulling air in
• switching fuel pump relay
• electrical connection to vp

 

[SmokinGator]

Quick update:

-Rented a pressure gauge, 15-19 lb at the port on the side of the VP44
-I've had some issues with the water/fuel separator valve in the past not closing completely until I found the right spot. It wasn't leaking recently until I opened it to check it yesterday. Now with the LP running it's leaking, possible source of air when trying to crank the truck?
- I switched relays around, the fuel pump relay works for the horn at least

Not sure why sometimes the LP pressure was 15 and most times 19 (checked it 4-5 times) but I did notice backflow from the LP when it shut off. I was under the truck checking the prefilter when that happened - saw and heard fuel come back as the pump shut off. Sounded like it "vented." Not sure if there is a check valve that should keep it "primed" so to speak.

 

[KATOOM]

The water/fuel drain can be a bugger to get closed but it does close. Just keep messing with it and it will shut completely. And if it is leaking then yes, that will allow the prime to be lost and fuel will drain back out of the fuel lines and into the tank.
The pressure isnt as important right now because air that made it into the system is going to take a day or two of driving to work its way out, and thats when the pressure should stabilize.

All that said, did you see if it started on ether yet?

 

[SAndreasen]

You need a pump plain and simple it sucks but that’s the problem

 

[KATOOM]

Make sure it wont idle after starting off ether before spending the coin on a new injection pump...

 

[SmokinGator]

Thanks Fellas, great input and reminders. I haven't done anything on it for a couple of days except order a new water separator valve from Geno's. This evening I started a front end tear down on my wife's 2001 Land Cruiser - will replace both upper and lower ball joints and inner and outer tie rod ends. Hope to finish that tomorrow, if not then Friday sometime. When done I'll jump back on the Dodge.

When I do, I'll switch out the valve and then go back through the filter change steps as usual - making sure canister is full, bleed at the VP, crack 1,3,&4 and see if it'll go. If it doesn't, I think I'm going to check all the lines and fittings and try again. Starting fluid too at some point. We'll see what happens from there.

As I'm thinking back on the history of this truck which I have owned since new and always serviced. It's always fired right up and ran like a champ. I replaced the lift pump about 5 years ago (FASS DDRP) when I noticed original lift pump was getting weak. Only recently I noticed a quick miss or skip every great once in a while. So slight it hardly skipped a beat. Then more recently I ran it out of fuel (*or at least I'm pretty sure that's what happened) and was hard to bleed on the side of the road but all of the sudden it just caught and was fine driving home. After I got home it sat for a an hour or so and when I jumped back in to go top off the tank it would not start. *Years ago, I did have a hole rub in a fuel line between the tank and the rail and when fuel got below there it would act like it was out of fuel due to air. So in thinking about all that, I'm going to track all of that down first and maintain hope that it's not the VP44.

I love both of my 2001 vehicles and one reason is because I can work on them. The other side of that story is they're getting to the age where you have to work on them!

Thanks again, I'll update soon!

 

[rkressg]

P1689 No Communication Between ECM and Injection Pump Module Data
P0230 Fuel pump relay -circuit malfunction

Your VP44 has most likely died. Blue Chip has a good troubleshooting guide:
https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/diagnosing-vp44-fuel-system-issues

Given the age, check all the fuel lines, and replace anything that looks questionable. There is a banjo bolt on the back of the head that connects the fuel return to the tank, if that is cracked, when the engine is off, air can get in and starting will be a very big PITA.

Get a good mechanical fuel pressure gauge connected with a good hydraulic hose (so you don't get a diesel leak in the cab). The FASS is probably fine, but you should check the pressure, given the way these VP44s are cooled/lubricated by fuel.
If you are going to upgrade, replace all the banjo bolts with AN fittings.