Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2002 6speed oil?

[Hemiless]

I'm getting ready to swap all of my fluids over to Synthetic but I'm unsure what to run in the 6-speed box. The 5-speeds run gear-oil but my manual says to run special Mopar oil in the 6-speed and doesn’t give the weight or type. Is anyone else running synthetics in their 6-speed? Being in Alaska I like to run Synthetics due to the cold winter weather. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Rman]

There is gobs and gobs of posts about this. Try searchin, most people are using the following:



Stock DC oil (Texaco)

Amsoil HDD 5W-30 series 3000

Redline MTL

Royal Purple synchromax



I tried the synchromax and still have it in there. It shifts better, especially when cold... but i did develop a leak shortly there after. May or may not be caused by the oil, i don't know. Its a slow leak not worth my attention just yet.



Again, there is a wealth of information on the topic, search away.

 

[Pit Bull]

Unless you are beyond your 7/70 drive train warranty I would not use anything but the Mopar lube. If you have a problem with your 6 speed they will check your lube and if it is not the recommended Mopar stuff you will pay. Personally I would recommend the Mopar lube anyway. It is what NV and Dodge both recommend. But for some fun reading check out this thread for what the members that like to think they are lube engineers are doing https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=65730&highlight=6*speed+lube

 

[klenger]

The spec for the proper oil is MS-9224. It was made by Texaco, but I think they no longer make it. I've heard the Quaker State makes a fluid to this spec, and that it is available at some auto parts stores, and a bunch cheaper than Dodge's stuff.



Here's a link to the product spec from Quaker State



http://www.pennzoil-quakerstate.com...te/Gear&Transmission/pdf/SynchromeshFluid.PDF

 

[Ole Blue]

I'm running Royal Purple Synchromax in mine and no problems... ... ..... Blue

 

[jwinnie]

Pennzoil makes a fluid called synchromesh, It meets the DC spec.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/oilstore/pensyn5gal.html



I am also running the Royal purple, shifts better.



John

 

[krs]

Looks like the Quaker State and Pennzoil products are one and the same and it does meet the DC requirement, but it's a dyno oil. .



I'd like to know of a synthetic that meets the same specification, if there is one.

 

[Sticks]

I just switched out to the Penzoil stuff, and everything seems fine. I have not noticed any difference between that and the OEM goo that was in there.

 

[Cliffman]

Stick with the OEM Oil

I would highly recommend sticking with the OEM oil. I tried several different types of oil and all ways had a problem with ease of shifting or a slight grinding in cold weather. I went back to the OEM Mopar oil and it made a huge difference in ease of shifting and no grinding in cold weather. Some times I wonder if maybe they had the wrong oil in from the factory or maybe they changed the oil spec. This oil was specially blended for our 6 speeds. I wouldn’t run anything else.

 

[Pit Bull]

Re: Stick with the OEM Oil

Originally posted by Cliffman

I would highly recommend sticking with the OEM oil. I tried several different types of oil and all ways had a problem with ease of shifting or a slight grinding in cold weather. I went back to the OEM Mopar oil and it made a huge difference in ease of shifting and no grinding in cold weather. Some times I wonder if maybe they had the wrong oil in from the factory or maybe they changed the oil spec. This oil was specially blended for our 6 speeds. I wouldn’t run anything else.

When did you change your's back to the oem? I wonder if they changed the lube oil spec's? Some one else mentioned this on another thread.

 

[Cliffman]

I changed back to the OEM December of 02 at 95,314 miles. I now have 113,013 on the counter. transmission shifts almost as easy as a 5 speed.

 

[Dane]

My six speed shifts are silky smooth with the factory oil. Even the guy who did the front end alignment commented on how easy it shifts. I changed it at 10K and then every 30K. Synthetic is not necessarily better than dino oil except in very cold climates. The additive package is the key. Don't go on how "clean" the oil looks because you can't tell the condition of the additives by cleanliness. By the time it looks dirty the damage is already done. As always jmho

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by Dane





I changed it at 10K and then every 30K.

Dane, just wondering if you pull real heavy and that is why you change the transmission lube so often? I don't tow or haul at all and planned on changing mine at 35K miles and again at 69K miles right before the warranty was up (just incase there was a problem).

 

[Cliffman]

Wow

Dane, you change your transmission oil that much? It's supposed to be life time. I had to check the owner’s manual to be sure and this is how it reads “This fluid does not require periodic changing”. Not to be argumentative but just seems a bit much.

 

[krs]

Although I'm somewhat uncomfortable with a truck transmission that is so delicate as to be at risk of failure if an incorrect oil is used I'm willing to follow the manufacturer's specification. I do think that synthetic oils in general have been proven to possess many properties which enhance their useful life - that in which they remain able to retain their original characteristics for extended periods in both extreme and normal use. So I'd rather use a synthetic if it meets the requirements of the designer of the equipment.



It may be that the required oil IS a synthetic oil. Does anyone know? Is that why DC assures us that the transmission oil does not require periodic servicing?

 

[Sticks]

Re: Wow

Originally posted by Cliffman

Dane, you change your transmission oil that much? It's supposed to be life time. I had to check the owner’s manual to be sure and this is how it reads “This fluid does not require periodic changing”. Not to be argumentative but just seems a bit much.

Oil, in the grand scheme of things, is cheap (unless it's MOPAR). I bought my truck used at 30K, and changed the oil, it was NASTY (not uncommon for the first oil change). I plan on changing it every 20-30K, just like my engine oil every 3K religiously.



Sticks

 

[Dane]

I changed it at 10K to get rid of break-in metal. I change it at 30K cause it's cheap insurance. imo, the term "lubed for life" is meaningless unless they tell you what the expected life is. I figure "lubed for life" is 100K unless stated otherwise... I've always gotten 250K trouble free miles on my cars and trucks using this schedule.