2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2002 A/C freon leak

[JDoiron]

Well I guess it is time to fix the old rag but I do not know where to start. I have been adding 2-3 cans of freon to the A/C each year and cannot find the leak. I do not see any oily stuff around anything under the hood or around the radiator. Anyone has any idea where all the freon is going?

 

[Hammer]

I would bet any amount of money on it being the evap core inside the heater/ac box inside the truck. They are notorious for having them fail after about 4-5 years and if your has never been done its a good bet thats what it is. IF you do find out that the evap core is the culprit and you decide to have it fixed,make sure you do the heater core also as a little extra when its already apart may save you a huge expense later... ... Andy

 

[AClayton]

Evap core!!! Another Dodge trait to deal with!



Alan

 

[Tractorat]

I have the same problem. I have to have it charged every year. What is involved with getting at the evap core ? Do they have to take the dashboard apart ? Or can they get at it from below the dashboard ? (I dont know if I trust anyone to take my dashboard apart and put it back together again without causing a rattle)

 

[Missouri Mule]

You have to get to the ac/heater unit box from above so the dash has to come out but quite a few members have been able to tilt it forward to get the evap/heater core.

 

[Fireman Dave]

I'm on my 3rd evaporator and may be looking at a 4th come spring. The third one was covered under warranty - the second one didn't even last a year.

 

[Tractorat]

Fireman Dave,

Being on your third makes you kind of an expert on evaporators going out. When they were giving you trouble, was there any indication ? A smell of freon for instance /

 

[Fireman Dave]

I don't recall smelling anything - but my own odors may have something to do with that (just ask my wife). :-laf It just wasn't putting out cold air anymore. It happened gradually at first. It was none too cheap to have it done at the dealership that first time. Then when it took a dump less than a year later, I was really happy to find out it was under the replacement warranty of the one I just had put in the summer before. I'm still not sure they didn't make some mistake on that - giving me a year warranty on parts and labor of a replacement part. But I didn't argue!



This third one that's in it now is probably 5 or 6 years old (I'd have to check my records). Last summer it wasn't blowing very cold, but enough for when I really needed it. I only drive about 10 minutes to and from work, so unless it's really hot and humid, I just have the windows down. I like hearing the truck anyway, and we spend to darn many months with the windows up around here. Fuel prices have put a damper in the long out of state towing/camping trips, so I was able to work around it. But I'll have to do something about it in a few months as I'm sure it's probably weaker by now. I'm going to start with a recharge to see what that does. I might just have a different issue, too. Depending on how much a recharge costs and how long it lasts, I'd maybe opt for that for awhile before paying someone to put another new evaporator in - if that's my problem again. I could tackle it myself, too. Sounds like a real PIA, though - one of the few jobs I might not want to do.

 

[SeanM]

I just replaced my evaporater while I had my HVAC housing out looking for other problems. When I pulled my evap out it was coated in a oily mud and plugged up to the point you couldn't see through it when you held a flash light behind it.



Its no big deal to pull it, some people just seem to make it sound like its impossible. It takes 20-30 mins to roll the dash and about another 30-40 to yank out the HVAC housing. I re-did my whole HVAC housing today and the part that took the longest was replacing all the weather stripping and foam in side the housing. It should take you 5-6 hours working at a relaxed pace.



If you do ended up wanting to take it out I can give detailed directions that will help you out alot if you have never pulled a dash out before.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

I just replaced my evaporater while I had my HVAC housing out looking for other problems. When I pulled my evap out it was coated in a oily mud and plugged up to the point you couldn't see through it when you held a flash light behind it.



Its no big deal to pull it, some people just seem to make it sound like its impossible. It takes 20-30 mins to roll the dash and about another 30-40 to yank out the HVAC housing. I re-did my whole HVAC housing today and the part that took the longest was replacing all the weather stripping and foam in side the housing. It should take you 5-6 hours working at a relaxed pace.



If you do ended up wanting to take it out I can give detailed directions that will help you out alot if you have never pulled a dash out before.

Let's have those directions! Does yur heater/ AC air feel like it came back alive after the swap? Mine still blows hot air and cool (at least it did last summer) but the fan feels like it needs a shot of HGH or something. I flushed m8ine out last spring and got tons of nasty stuff out the firewall drain but it didn't feel like it blew any stronger. I probably just plugged it up even further, huh?

 

[Fireman Dave]

Yes Sean, post those directions if you would.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[SeanM]

Ok heres the short version. My grammer sucks so bear with me.



First remove the kick panels underneath the dash, then remove the panel covering the bottom of the steering column. (the panel by your knees) If you have a manual your going to have to remove the cup holders and the shifter to allow the dash to come out and to remove the 2 bolts by the airbag computer. Now remove the two bolts that hold the lower part of the dash to the bracket that sits over top of the airbag comp. (I will put up pics tonight to show you what I am talking about). Next remove the two nuts that hold the column to the dash and let the steering wheel rest on the seat. Then remove the 5 screws along the windshield. Now behind the kick panels you removed earlier there are 2 large bolts on either side, loosen those but do not remove completly. This step is easier with two people but I did it buy myself so it isn't that bad. Gently roll the dash towards you while lifting the dash on the pass side off the bolt and hang it from the handle on the A piller with rope or a small cargo strap and there you go you go, now you can see the HVAC housing.



To remove the HVAC housing I started in the cab first. There are 2 nuts that hold the housing in the cab. The first on located by the top of the recric door on the right hand side, the second should have a grounding strap running to it from the top of the heater core so its easy to find. If you don't have the grounding strap the nut is located just to the right of the heater core. Now I removed the A/C lines and heater hoses inside the engine compartment. To remove the A/C lines you may need the file down the cheap A/C disconnect tool to fit underneath the spring inside the connection. Now after all that is done you have four nuts to remove. One is located behind the valve cover, two are located behind the A/C accumulater and the 4th... ... ... is located behind the PCM. Yea somebody thought that was a good place to put that. All you have to do is remove the three screws that hold the PCM in place and gently move it to get at the nut.



Back to the cab. Its takes a little pulling and shaking but slowly work the HVAC housing back a few inches and unclip the 2 vacuum lines from the housing. 1 is green and one is black. The green runs to the heat/ac control and the black one runs into the engine compartment. They are held the housing so don't just rip them off. There are three more vacuum hoses on the furthest left hand side of the housing, mark them and pull them off. Also don't forget the the wire connections on the front of the HVAC housing.



Now gently work the HVAC housing out and underneath the dash. You may have to lift the dash to fit the housing underneath, just take your time and use common sense. I will pics up of the fasteners an their locations later tonight.



A few more things. First, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE FULLY DRAINED THE A/C SYSTEM!!!!!!!

One of the lines you have to disconnect is the high side line. It will blow up in your face if it is not drained. Two, when lifting the dash becareful not to bend it to much or you will crack your dash. Finally, also make sure to disconnet BOTH batteries before you start this project.

 

[JDoiron]

I have a 2002 Dodge 2500 2wd,TD with 145000 miles on it. I have been adding a can or two of freon for the past 3 summers. It has gotten so expensive I decided to get it fixed. My leak was not the evap coil but the compressor. Changed it out and everything seems to be working fine. I guess I am on borrowed time with the evap coil.