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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2002 aluminum rims on 96 truck..

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission pan

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Dan_69GTX

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I might be able to get a set of 2002 aluminum rims for my 1996 truck.



From what I've read in the searches all I should need to do is have the rear drums machined to fit the new rims.



Is there anything else I might run into or be aware of?



Thanks!

Dan
 
Memory says that there was also a potential problem with interference with tie rod ends or the steering arms on the spindles on the front end. But then again, I'm an old man, so memory isn't always a good reference point! :{



Rusty
 
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All you need to do is have the square lip on the outside of rear drums turned down a little. The front will be tight, but they do fit.

If you try to put these on a 98 or 99 you will have interferance problems on the front steering components as they were changed from the 94-97 design.
 
Thanks!



I didn't realize that there was a difference in steering components between those years!



Guess I'll see about getting those rims... .



Thanks!

Dan
 
I had the drums turned on my 96 so that i could run the wheels off the 02 on it.



They fit, but i didn't like the way it looked. The 02 rims sit much further in the wheel openings on the 96 then they do on the 02. It made the truck look bad from the front or back (just my opinion). So while you can make the wheels work, it may not look the same as an 02 when your done.



Chris
 
Here is what I did:



I used fellow TDR member JPittinger's advice https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=105097&highlight=grinder and did the following: Jack up the vehicle, take off rear tires/rims, install 2 lug nuts to hold the drum on. Start the truck, put it in 1st and low range of the transfer case - this makes the drums turn REAL SLOW. If you have an auto, you may not be able to do this - whatever you do - make sure the drums turn REAL SLOW so not to hurt yourself. I then used a 4 1/2" grinder to remove metal from the outside of the rim so that the new rims would fit. If I had the time would I do this again - maybe. If you have the time to take the drums to a machine shop to have them turned - That would be much faster and no where near as messy (grinding dust everywhere).



The approximate dimensions of the rim's outer lip width was . 325 before - and approx . 25" after - note - these measurements were not real accurate since I don't have accurate instruments!!



After I did this, I checked the rims on a balancer. They were off just a tad - most people wouldn't even notice (one was . 1 oz the other was . 2 oz). If you have a balancer - go ahead and true them up.



Then I installed the rear rims - yes, it is a tight fit. Make sure you remove enough metal from the drum to allow for some expansion of the drum. I have about 1/16" clearance.



The front bolted on w/o any problem - BUT you need to check clearance of the brake lines. I found the right side to be fine. The left side I had to bend the hose bracket to make sure the tire wouldn't rub on the hose when turning. According to one of the attached posts - there are steering interference problems that need to be addressed in the 98-99 trucks



Even with the rim width being different, the offset is correct for my truck. I measured the distance from the front surface of the rim to the mounting flange surface and the difference was only 1/32" - which could be due to the way I measured it.



Good luck and hope this helps!



Here's a pic of the before and after of the drum grinding.



Dan
 
Considering I had 2 rims that were BENT and 1 rim that was just bent a little - There was a GREAT difference in ride quality.



I should have done this years ago when I first got the truck.



When I got it, 2 rims were bent. Last time I balanced my tires I noticed the 2 was bent more and another rim was slightly tweaked. Why - I don't know. I don't do "4 wheeling" - but need 4wd due to the area in which I live (If the ground is even slightly damp I need it to get the flatbed trailer out of the field).



Good idea on the grinder - I can see where an 8" grinder would have been much faster - oh well



What gap do you have between the rim and the drum? Any problems with brake cooling?



Thanks!

Dan
 
I also used a grinder to modify the brake drums except I put the truck 5th gear and let it idle. I figured the faster the drum was spinning, the more even the gringer would remove metal , thus keeping the brake drum in balance.
 
this isnt really important but with the alumminzed rims you should go to autozone and get the eagleone chrome and wire cleaner in a black bottle, it makes those babies shine, mine went from **** to shine in seconds, sporay on spray off, caution though there is etch in it so dont sray it anywhere else or you will ruin ur bumoper like i did!
 
Well it’s too bad I wasn’t registered to TDR when I did mine. That metal and grinder dust is a killer. Make sure you get that off right away, it ruined my paint. I had to scrub at it for quite a while with one of those abrasive green kitchen sponges, which was rather painful to do to my finish, but regardless I would still do the modification again for anyone else who is debating it.

Quick question though...

What is different about the 2001's that the wheels stick out further, are the knuckles different? What is the distance between wheel mounting surfaces front and back on a 1997 vs. a 2001?



Andrew
 
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