Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 2002 Replacing Engine Compartment Water Heater Hoses

[rweis]

I plan to replace the engine compartment water heater hoses on my 2002 ETC.



One primary reason is to get the OEM metal heater hose tubing out of the way of the exhaust manifold bolts so they can be reached and checked much easier.



A second reason is to get to the top of the oil filter housing so I can get to the 1/4" NPT plug and an oil pressure sensor line can be tapped in at that location.



Other than the obvious of keeping the rerouting away from heat sources do you have any advice or ideas?



Thanks for your opinions,



Bob Weis

 

[rkressg]

Are you thinking of using more steel lines, just bent in a different manner, or 5/8" rubber lines?

 

[pgleavitt]

You can replace the steel one that runs under the manifold with one from an older 12 valve engine and it will now run above the manifold but still kind of in the way of the top bolts or do what I did. Find a good hose shop that makes steel hard lines for construction equipment and have a new one bent to your needs. They use a heavy wall tubing that works well.

 

[rweis]

I want to use rubber hoses and ditch the steel one totally.



Actually, I dove into it today.



Had to cut the steel lines out or you have to take the entire turbo system out. Replaced the steel with Gates rubber heater hose. I had changed my af to a Scotty II so had some room where the old box went. Ran a line from the firewall heater in forward to the lip where the other wire harnesses go, turn it toward the outside run it over to the fender, forward to the passenger battery tray, then turn it to the rear outlet of the water pump. I did put a 90* metal elbow on the water pump rear outlet so the gates hose goes straight in.



Took the top outlet of the water pump, 90* metal elbow, hose basically along the same route but turn it down the fender to the water heat exchanger (WELL clear of the turbo), 90* metal elbow, to the water heat exchanger.



Out of the water heat exchager loop (WELL clear of the turbo) under the turbo to the fender up to the wireing harness bundle along the lip of the firewall, turn toward passenger side valve cover to a new verticle hose adapter like the cab heater has, but on the next forward water jacket plug.



I took the transmission water return out from between the alternator and the block. I did not like the idea that a rubber water 90* elbow could take out the alternator if it ever sprung a leak. BTW transmission water return fitting is put into the block with an internal allen wrench in the block fitting. Of course you have to take the alternator off to get to the water fitting, of course.



I also installed a snubber line for a oil pressure sensor into the top of the oil filter head that would not fit right with the metal lines. So now I have two oil pressure sensors, one DC and one Westach.



Anyway, the result is that I can change my oil filter WAY easier because the metal lines are not in the way for filter removal. I can easily check my exhause manifold nuts torque. I put in the backup oil pressure guage. I feel better without the rubber heater return aimed right at the side of the alternator. And routine hose replacement is done. I also had a beautiful day to do it 70* sunny (that is for y'all still below freezing in your part of the woods )



Bob Weis