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2003 2500 4x4....Ball Joints?

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One has to question whether these folks with 100k+ mi. and no problems even check

for play in the balljoints. Some people are happy as long as they can keep it between

the lines and some of us want every aspect of our trucks maintained as they should be.

I would also point out that this is not just a DODGE problem, the superdutys have the

same problem with low mileage balljoint failure. I don't believe the joints in either the DODGE or ford are up to the task they have been assigned
 
The THREE high mileage trucks I know personaly (two 03s with 115 and 155k and one 05 with 90k) have never even needed a alignment. The 03s went over 90k on factory tires and the 05 has 88k and needs tires now. But not due to uneven wear.
 
I have been chasing down a vibration problem in the front end. Looks like the ball joints all need to be replaced. I have 63K and the KORE Chase suspension with big tires. I would have to say they went out aout 3K ago or more.
 
ACoffel said:
One has to question whether these folks with 100k+ mi. and no problems even check

for play in the balljoints. Some people are happy as long as they can keep it between

the lines and some of us want every aspect of our trucks maintained as they should be.



I've never checked the play on mine (don't have a dial indicator), but I've not had any reason to do so yet. Tire wear is even, no vibrations, no wandering.



I like to think I want every aspect of my truck to be maintained as it should be.



-Ryan
 
Just changed my front differential fluid to Royal Purple. Factory stuff was clean and was last changed at 15K. Got 38,000 miles on her now. Since I had the front end up about 3", I put a long pry bar under each front tire and lifted up. This was the first time I have ever checked the ball joints. To my disappointment, the driver's side had a noticable "clunk" sound and the other side did so also but just a little less. I have the top extended warranty so I will make an appointment with the dealer just to hear them tell me that it is within tolerance I'll bet. I only have sight wander at highway speeds but no unusual tire wear. Joe.
 
Ball Joints

Add my truck the list. With 67,000 miles my started pulling ,cupping the right front tire. I am on the oirignal michelin tires.
 
Turbo Kidd said:
Quick questions:



1. ) How many miles did you get on your factory ball joints?



2. ) Reccomendations for replacements and cost for parts?



3. ) What signs did you have that you noticed your ball joints were going bad?



Any info. would be most appreciated.



Thanks!



I've got a 3500 dually, but just replaced all 4 ball joints and all rod ends this week at 210,000 miles. Factory parts were cheaper than NAPA parts and that's what I went with!
 
JoeDiesel said:
Just changed my front differential fluid to Royal Purple. Factory stuff was clean and was last changed at 15K. Got 38,000 miles on her now. Since I had the front end up about 3", I put a long pry bar under each front tire and lifted up. This was the first time I have ever checked the ball joints. To my disappointment, the driver's side had a noticable "clunk" sound and the other side did so also but just a little less. I have the top extended warranty so I will make an appointment with the dealer just to hear them tell me that it is within tolerance I'll bet. I only have sight wander at highway speeds but no unusual tire wear. Joe.



Up and down is acceptable in the AAMs... you just don't want any in and out play (like a loose wheel bearing type play...



With that said, my driver's side has some play in it, but the passenger side is still nice and tight... which seems backwards to me since roads tend to be worse along the edge and not the middle... I'll probably end up replaceing all 4 joints before next inspection... Napa lists a greaseable joint (upper and lower) that were old to me to be TRWs that cost $380 to do all four...



I also have around 95k on, some of that was with 35s (on stock wheels), and some of that is carrying a slide in camper...



steved
 
ACoffel said:
One has to question whether these folks with 100k+ mi. and no problems even check

for play in the balljoints. Some people are happy as long as they can keep it between

the lines and some of us want every aspect of our trucks maintained as they should be.

I would also point out that this is not just a DODGE problem, the superdutys have the

same problem with low mileage balljoint failure. I don't believe the joints in either the DODGE or ford are up to the task they have been assigned

I have my tires rotated and balanced every month. The small shop I use, lets me look at brake pads, balljoints etc while they are doing tires. I make a living with my truck, eating up tires, eats into the bottom line. I've gotton 70,000 plus with the factory GoodYear GSAs, MasterCraft C/Ts (which are kind of aggressive) and MasterCraft A/Ts. I just today ordered another set of the C/Ts ... ... . I've not run a highway tread yet!



210,000 miles and just now doing ball joints and rod ends!
 
steved said:
Napa lists a greaseable joint (upper and lower) that were old to me to be TRWs that cost $380 to do all four...

steved

NAPA told me they couldn't garantee a grease zerk until they had the part in their hand, and was almost $500 for all four :confused: I know there are independants and corporates though too. I would definatly stay away from the adjustable version from Rock Auto though.
 
JHardwick said:
NAPA told me they couldn't garantee a grease zerk until they had the part in their hand, and was almost $500 for all four :confused: I know there are independants and corporates though too. I would definatly stay away from the adjustable version from Rock Auto though.



They told me this in April, guaranteed me they would be greaseable and that they were indeed made by TRW... but being independant... who knows for sure...



I agree, unless you need the adjustables for alignment issues, I'd avoid them too.



steved
 
had an 04 4x4 with 100k. told the ball jounts needed replaced. pretty bad but did not feel a thing. went to another frame and axle shop i know and got a price of $850 with new u-joints also. said those trucks had a life of about 80k before ball joints go bad. said only lower ball woul have grease fitting. got me an 06 instead.
 
HSpiering said:
had an 04 4x4 with 100k. told the ball jounts needed replaced. pretty bad but did not feel a thing. went to another frame and axle shop i know and got a price of $850 with new u-joints also. said those trucks had a life of about 80k before ball joints go bad. said only lower ball woul have grease fitting. got me an 06 instead.



So you're going to trade the 06 before you get 80k? :D



I was told both the napa's (upper and lower) were greaseable... they were even listed as such.



Another shop could get me the lowers in MOOG, but not uppers even though there was a part number for the upper??? MOOG was less than helpful. .



I have considered buying the joints from quad4x4 and drilling the caps (tin) to install a zerk... at least I could grease them...



steved
 
I just had new upper and lower Moog Ball Joint installed Thursday, 68,000 miles. MOOG Part #K7467 is the lower ball joint and MOOG Part #K7448 is the adjustable Moog upper ball joints, it really helped with the alignment. Both upper and lower have zerks.



Left Front

Camber 0. 2*

Caster 4. 2*

Toe 0. 09*



Right Front

Camber 0. 0*

Caster 4. 3*

Toe 0. 10*



Front

0. 19* Total Toe

0. 00* Tear Ahead



Rear

-0. 02* Total Toe

-0. 14* Thrust Angle



The shop told me that they had never seen a Dodge truck come out with this good of alignment.



When you do ball joints, make sure you replace the front axle u-joints. I replaced mine with the PRECISION Part #464, they also have zerks. The factory u-joint bearings were totally dry and rusted, certain to fail very soon. Now I'm worried about the other u-joints and carrier bearing. I'll probably do them soon.



I also installed a set of 5100 Bilsteins:

Front #BE5 6681 H5

Rears #BE5 6647 H5 (this is now superceeded by BE5 6647 H1)



Tomorrow I will install new Carbon Metallic brake pads on the front and Centramatic Wheel Balancers on all four.



New MasterCraft Courser A/T's went on a couple of weeks ago. I should be pretty well set for winter now! :D And Broke!! :-laf
 
OK. My '06 2500 with only 5k miles on it has pulled to the left for about 2k miles now. I have been gone for a while so no time to look into it and it never really bothered me that much. I went to get an alignment Monday and they told me they could not get the pull out because the upper drivers side ball joint would not adjust enough. He did not say they were bad, he just said the upper would not adjust. They moved the tires around and that did not help at all. Can the dealership help, or do I have to drop all that money to get the adjustable Moog uppers? I know they are going to whine about it having 35" tires on it and will not replace them under warranty (which is crap). I drive two Found On Roadside Dead (FORD for some people) trucks for over three years with 35s on them with no alignment problems... ... (just venting. Sorry)

By the way... is the ball joint tool from Quad 4x4 the only one? Geez 500 bucks plus shipping to Alaska for a tool I hopefully only need once.
 
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Any one else also have trouble with the front wheel bearings? My right front on the 03 whent out at 100 000 km and like clockwork at 200 000km. Same thing with the front end... These ball joints are festering pieses of crap!
 
Plowboy said:
Any one else also have trouble with the front wheel bearings? My right front on the 03 whent out at 100 000 km and like clockwork at 200 000km. Same thing with the front end... These ball joints are festering pieses of crap!





Mine were still tight and smooth at 70k... I installed the DT kit.



steved
 
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