2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2003 Tow mirrors on 2001 truck

[Nickaru]

Not fun . I'm trying to convert some 2003 electric and heated mirrors to my 2001 tow mirror bases. I followed some instructions posted on the TDR, but it's not as easy as stated. :--) I'm about to give up with reinstalling the big springs . If someone is interested in taking over this project, I'll let everything go for a good price. The 2003 mirrors are brand new and I have the 2001 mirrors also. PM me for more info. Cipa here I come.

 

[pgleavitt]

Don't give up just yet. Put the springs in a vise and then use tie wire to secure. Better yet I will pm you. give me a call

 

[ntillm01]

I wish I was further along in my 2003 power tow mirror swap to help. I bought battery hold down J-bolts to make a puller press to get the springs back in. I don't like the idea of leaving wire in the assembly. Unfortunately, I don't know if it will work yet.



Do your 2003 arms fit in the 2001 bases properly? I've learned that the casting changed for the 3rd-gen mirrors, and some "clearancing" is needed to get them to seat together correctly. If not, you have a 1/4 inch gap between them, and the spring will never go back on then.

 

[Rob Thomas]

Originally posted by ntillm01

I don't like the idea of leaving wire in the assembly. Unfortunately, I don't know if it will work yet.

The wire has been in my mirrors for well over 2 years, hasn't caused a lick of trouble.



C'mon guys, at least you have some instructions for help, remember, I had no instructions (or clue, or wasn't even sure it would work) when I did it, still was done in one day, it's not THAT big a job.





Rob

 

[ntillm01]

Sorry Rob, it isn't a huge deal, but they did change the casting since you did your's I think. I'll show some pictures when I can. I am certainly a proponent of doing the swap. Even my old (2001) mirror bases have the wire tunnel cast into them like they were always meant to be powered. When they are apart, it's clear they go together and almost came from the same mold. Anyway, I think the J-bolt deal will work and I'm going to try it.

 

[ntillm01]

I forgot to give cudos to Rob for doing this, without knowing if it would work. It takes some vision and brain power to figure out that the mirrors are the same from the break-away joint out. That's what makes it possible! Oo.

 

[bighammer]

I have a pair of heated power mirrors from my 03 that I took off to do the tow mirrors. I never thought of putting them on the 94 untill recently. (plowing kicks up a LOT of snow and heated mirrors would REALLY be handy) I should try to see if they would fit.

 

[ntillm01]

The bases (mirror flags) are very different between the 03 (3rd-gen) and the 94 (2nd-gen). From what I've seen, the standard power mirrors don't come apart nicely enough to do this kind of swap. Good thought though!

 

[Wiredawg]

Mine work fine!

Hey Rob:



Belated thanks on the instructions. Mine work great. Real PITA job; took me over 6 hours to complete. Compessing the springs and tying them is tough. I had aircraft safety wire which worked great. I spent the $145 at the dealer for the new climate control panel w/ the heated mirrror switch, but I wanted this to look OEM.



Guys: you really need patience to do this.



Rob: BTW, you still making those console coolers? Mine is great.



Happy trails, Wiredawg

 

[Rob Thomas]

Your welcome Wiredawg, I pretty much gave up on the console thing, I love mine also, but the dollars to time ratio is very low.



Take care, Rob

 

[stg2500]

I have to agree with needing a tremendous amount of patience. I had a friend over when I did mine since I am not the most patient individual. I agree that compressing the springs is the worst part. It took me several tries compressing each spring and tying it with mechanics wire to accomplish the task. I found that compressing the spring in a bench vise and using two lengths of wire on opposite sides of the spring a good approach.



I don't think that the J bolts will work. I had no extra room to spare. Barely enough room for the mechanics wire to fit in with the spring.



It is definately the most useful addition to the truck. Try it again, you will be impressed.

 

[Nickaru]

Thanks for all the support and thanks to Rob for the instructions. It's just that the spring has got some tension when I have it tied down and I can't get it down far enough. I'll have to try some thinner wire because what I used wouldn't let the spring go all the way down the mount. As for the fit onto the old bases, it does need some modifications as ntillm01 mentioned. If you look at the 03 mirror arms, they look parallel 90 degrees. My 01 bases have a slight taper inward and when I place the 03 mirrors on them, there was about a 1/4 inch gap and they didn't sit all the way down. After sanding down the mirror arms so they taper, they fit together better. I also tried the J bolt idea on the inside of the housing. I used an all thread rod with a bend in it. It just kept slipping out. I'll keep trying, I just keep thinking why I just didn't go with the Cipa mirrors and save me the aggravation. I had them on another truck and were great. I just keep hearing what a good mod this is. Thanks again.

 

[klenger]

I added the comments about the spring to the instructions on my website. I have the power mirrors on my 04. 5. They are nice, but I had to pay $40,000 to get them.



Here are the instructions:

http://www.klenger.net/dodge/2nd-gen-reference/heated-towing-mirrors.html

 

[Big White Beast]

I seem to recall someone had pics of this....

Or maybe it was someone that fixed a loose mirror. Anyway if someone could snap a few it would be a great addition to the instructions.



Thanks,



Garrett

 

[klenger]

If someone can get the pics, I'll add them to the instructions.

 

[ntillm01]

Originally posted by Nickaru

As for the fit onto the old bases, it does need some modifications as ntillm01 mentioned. If you look at the 03 mirror arms, they look parallel 90 degrees. My 01 bases have a slight taper inward and when I place the 03 mirrors on them, there was about a 1/4 inch gap and they didn't sit all the way down. After sanding down the mirror arms so they taper, they fit together better.

Exactly what I ran into. The 2001 "ring" has about 0. 040 inch taper, whereas the 2003 is a straight cylinder. I had to grind out the thick tabs (the break-away "stops") from the 2003 also.



Klenger-I've got pics, just need to get them developed and turned into digitals. Your gonna end up with one heck of an instruction manual.

 

[EricBu12]

Woo Hoo! I just did this swap!



Knock me on the head for not doing pictures but it was fun to do. The instructions Rob did was good but for one thing. I had to modify/grind the castings on both sides for it to work. Not just the drivers side.



Also I had to grind ALL around the vertical lip a bit as it was dragging on the base. Just grind a bit and test fit until you get the clunk of the notched areas.



I used slim Mech. wire to compress the spring, did three wraps to hold. Put spring in,... . (I used the old spring as it was longer by a bit and it worked out)..... clip on, bent tabs, then broke Wire by way of a chissel..... no problem... . its still in there but thats how it is... ...



On the wires, I just clipped the wires right at the connector and extended them. On the base that is the old one, after you get it back together, there is a small tunnel for the wire to go through, then I connected the extentions, made a jiig around to a square cut out notch next to the center of the triangle. this is the route so the wires won't get pinched. I left off the plastic "T" retainer in the center for the wires to go through there. Wires also go through the foam center of the triangle plate on the inside.



In the connector on the door, the two wires next to eachother are the heater wires. The three below is the power Wires. On the wiring on mine, the white from the mirror went to the blue on the door... on both sides. Cant remember the others but there is a 50/50 chance there, just hook up and test and redo if necc.



Once I hooked it all up, Everything worked good. I used a switch and a 12 volt source for the heaters. I used the power Windows since they are with the key on only. 12 volt went to switch then to a wire to hook to one of the heater wires. I used the blue first hooking it to both the door wire and the mirror wire so both mirrors get power, then the other wire (black) from the door and mirror go to ground. When the key is on, I turn on a switch and the mirrors get warm. A $2 switch beats a $150 new panel anyday...



Glad I did this. Looks Good and now since I have power mirrors, The value of the truck just went up by the fact alone that it has power mirrors... .

 

[EricBu12]

OK here are some finished pics



<img src=https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=9879&width=2/src img>



<img src=https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=9878&width=2/src img>



The red switch is for the mirror heaters. I used the Power for the mirrors to power the heaters. Keeps it on one circuit. Both work fine at the same time.



<img src=https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=9875&width=2/src img>



Here are my Manual ones. I wasn't able to fit the 03 bases onto the 01 arms, don't work. If anyone needs any of the below Items, PM Me



<img src=https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=9877&width=2/src img>



<img src=https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=9876&width=2/src img>

 

[C. Harlan]

I did the swap back in September, and love every minute of it!!! You flip those big boogers out, and you can really see around those trailers! I wish I would have done the swap sooner!



It does take lots of patience!



-Chris-

 

[EricBu12]

Just did a 200 mile Day ride, (solo, mirrors down... ) And there is no vibration, shaking or anything, just like it was factory... . Very pleased I did this...