2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2003 Tow mirrors on 2001 truck

[RTrenary]

make the spring install an easy one!!!!! I used my 10pound slide hammer, one hit and it's done!!!!!!!!! I used a few wood blocks, duct tape and cloth towels, wood blocks to support the mirrors, duct tape to hold mirror in place and the towels to protect the surface, by myself it took me about 5 to 5. 5 hours to complete the change over and install them on my truck, I tow a 26 foot inclosed car trailer, this is the best upgrade, just hit the switch and adjust on the fly!!!!!

 

[Nickaru]

Has anyone just thought about the first time some bicyclist hits your cars mirror as it's parked in the lot or on the street and we just ground down those tabs that prevent those mirrors from making contact with body sheet metal. I know we couldn't get around that to make these fit but I'm sure there will be a thread when that occurs.

 

[Rob Thomas]

My passenger side mirror lock still works, but the drivers side doesn't, and didnt work before I made the swap either.





Rob

 

[ntillm01]

Originally posted by Nickaru

Has anyone just thought about the first time some bicyclist hits your cars mirror as it's parked in the lot or on the street and we just ground down those tabs that prevent those mirrors from making contact with body sheet metal. I know we couldn't get around that to make these fit but I'm sure there will be a thread when that occurs.

Yes, I did think about that, and made it work like the 2001 style. It takes some work with a dremel tool to get the correct groove carved into the 2003 arm, but it can work. In Rob's case, he could keep the tab on the passenger side. His driver side might have been broken before. The 2003 newer casting has significantly more beef in the "stop-tab" area. Possibly because they could be broken when really slammed.

 

[ntillm01]

More progress on my project, in case any one is interested:

I successfully put both mirrors together this weekend with a home-built spring compressor thingy. I have pictures to post later, but it is basically this:



(2) Battery hold-down J-bolts, with the J cut almost flush to the bend.

(1) 3/4 drive, 1 3/16 socket

(1) Piece of 1/4 inch bar stock with two holes, 19/32 on center

(2) Nuts for the J-bolts, SAE Grade 5 or better.



I used anti-seize to prevent galling. The springs compress very smooth and easy with this setup. You can't even feel or hear the retainers clip into place, but they do. I evenly tightened until the nuts got very snug. Then, backed em off and everything stayed put!

For insurance, I tapped each tang with a hammer and punch, just to be sure they were well-seated. I don't want that thing flinging apart on it's own.