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2004.5 runs but will not start when shut off

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Clutch starting to slip

Good transmission shop in Georgia

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I was on my way back to Alaska from a trip south. I shut the truck off to clean the windows and make the final leg back to the border. When I went to start the truck it took longer than normal. I though it was wierd but figured I would look into it later.

150 miles later I reach the border and the agent asks me to shut the truck off some can ask me some questions. After he clears me to proceed into Alaska the truck just cranks over well But will not start. Now I am blocking the gate. I get some help and we push the truck out of the way. I had a spare fuel filter so I pull the old one out. While

It is out I turn the key on and the fuel flows into the bowl. The truck does have the dealer lift pump in the tank so I figure it is good if fuel is coming up. I put the new filter in but it will still not start.

Next I get some fuel from the tank in the bed in a small jug. I take one of the intake horn bolts out on top of the engine next to the valve cover. I pour a thimble full of fuel into the hole and it starts and runs fine. Ran fine the last 380 miles home.

I have been running the smarty on 5, power does not seem to be low and the idle sounds fine. Any ideas where to start? I made it home and let the truck sit since last night. Tried to start it again when it was cold. Cranks fine but will not start without pouring fuel into the intake.
 
Injectors, FCA, rail PRV, CP-3, gremlins. Do NOT feed the mogwai after midnite! :-laf



You can unplug the FCA and try starting it. If it fires it could be FCA or injectors, still hard to narrow down. Have you done any injector work lately? Cross over tube TQ is critical or no start. Periodically one will loosen with no help.



Are you sure you have adequate fuel pressure at the CP-3? Normally it will draw enoug to start unless there is a blockage.



Considering the cost of randomly replacing parts, a trip to the dealer or a competent diesel mechanic with a scanner capable of reading rail pressure, cylinder contribution, and doing some flow tests may be in order.



The FCA's are the cheapest part at $150 but the rest get expensive quick and guessing wrong will cost more than a diagnostic attempt.
 
I disconnected the plug on the CP3 and it still does not start unless I pour fuel directly into the intake.

No resent work done, getting plenty of fuel because it runs great once running.
 
She just hit 130,000. I bough her about 15,000 ago and was
Told the dealer said the injectors were weak. I just finished a 10,369 mile trip and I installed the smarty POD right before the trip. I drove pretty hard so I figure that was enough to finish the injectors off.
 
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