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2005 feul filter after 13k miles

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Fuel pressure or trans temp?

Batteries-OK, so I screwed up!

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Changed my fuel filter this weekend for the first time, 15,000 miles. Had trouble getting the cap back on, the treads wouldn't catch. Come to find out that the top of the filter that hooks under the tabs on the cap didn't stay with the filter. I didn't know better. I do now.
 
I agree with the change intervals being shorter. I do mine at every oil change or if I see my mileage starting to slip!!! Sometimes if you travel you can get some bad diesel and it will clog up pretty quick. I use the Genos fleetguard ones as well!!
 
I'm sorta surprised at the black FF - I was sorta thinking the new ULSD would be refined better enough than the LSD to not contain as many asphaltines (sp?) and cause the darkening as the LSD had - guess I was wrong...



It could also be the ULSD cleaning the old stuff out of the lines in the refining/distrubution process is still picking up the asphaltines. I am certainly no expert.
 
Good points all, especially protecting the open filter bowl from contamination.

-Draining the housing completely removes all water, and most contaminants. Best time to get rid of this is at the filter change.

-If you were to leave the old fuel you run the risk of contaminating the clean side of the filter. When you draw the filer cap out it will be dripping non-filtered fuel.

-The general consensus is that you do NOT wipe the inside of the filter bowl. Too risky. Even tiny bits of lint/debris from the cloth will clog injectors.

-I'll never understand the recommended interval in the manual. Way too long. A cynic might think DC wants the engine to fail. I change mine (7 micron Fleetguard "premium" filter from Genos) at 10k as per TDR consensus. Mine is always black. California has been running ULSD for about 2 years now, and my engine has never seen anything but ULSD.

-Theory is that the filters clean better as they get dirty, 10k seems like a fairly safe interval, not overdoing it.

-This is one job that all CTD owners absolutely need to know "how to" DIY. Do it once and your as good as a pro, also save yourself about $150.

-Carry a spare fuel filter, 6-point socket and wrench at all times. Genos sells a nice low-profile 6-point socket for the fuel filter cap.
 
I changed mine at about 500 miles with the 7 micron filter from Geno's for peace of mind in case it had the 10 Micron still from the factory. It was dark grey by than.
 
I error on the side of caution. I change the fuel filter at every oil change, which is 5,000 miles. For the price of a pump, or even a new engine, this is cheap insurance.
 
when i changed mine i simply used the socket 27mm? (dont remember). loosened the cap, took the old one out changed the o-ring,put a little oul on it to lubricate it and put the new filter in and tightned it back up. then cycled the key a few times and thats it. i didnt drain anything and really didnt spill much at all... ... . is there any other reason you guys are draining the filter out then just to keep it from spilling?



I used a 1 1/8" wrench to change my fuel filter today as a matter of fact. I change my fuel filter every oil change. I simply run down to napa and pick up a new filter which comes with the o ring. I talked to the guys at napa and they said the filter is a 7 micron.
 
I use FleetGuard Filters direct from Cummins. I change my filter every 7500 miles at every oil change (most of the time the fuel filters are dark grey or black) I have 70K miles on the truck now and I have not had a single injector problem to date (knock on wood).



Also since ULSD fuel has become the new gold standard, I noticed my mileage went down by about 2 MPG city and hwy so I have started running 2 cycle oil at 100:1 ratio with every fill up - comes out to be about 32 ounces per tank this returned my MPG to normal 18 city 23 hwy not pulling anything - its my daily driver.
 
Good thread, thank you TFarrell. I have learned a few good things here. I use Fleetguard every other oil change.
 
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