2006 2500 4x4 cranked but no start

[Motorhead]

My friend has a cherry 2006 with only 80,000 miles on it. It is a 2006, automatic, 4x4, 2500, all stock.
He tried to start it and it just cranked but didn't catch. He tried it three times and no start. NO CODES!
He tried the truck the next day and it started and ran with no issues.
Here is another thing. He only had ONE O.E. fob key when he bought the truck. He had a NON O.E. Dodge key made up and programmed for it and that's the key he has been using for 6 months.
I questioned about the remade key and suggested he use the OE key and keep the other for a spare.
ANY thoughts?
I thought about re-torquing the cross over tubes on the head. The truck seems to take just a bit longer cranking to start. What is the TORQUE for the injector cross over fittings? Any Ideas?

 

[TCDiesel]

Its not the C-Tubes unless the interjectors have been replace recently, OEM is 37FT LBS, We recommend 42FT LBS.

If the SKIM lost the key value (for whatever reason) it would need to be reprogramed, for that year its always the best to have 3 Keys, You can program a 3rd key with two known good ones W/O WItech, otherwise Your SOL with just one.

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks TC, Problem is, is that the aftermarket programmed key worked the next day.
Let me ask this: If a key, say just a cut key is put into the ignition, Will it allow the starter to crank but not start? I have a hide-a-key for my 2007. It is just a plain cut key. My '07 doesn't have the factory alarm. I use that key just to open the door if I have locked the fob key in the truck. I have never tried to use the plain, un-programmed key to start the truck to know what works and what doesn't.
So in a few words, the AFTERMARKET, Programmed key will still start the truck since that day of NO-Start.

 

[sag2]

A $2.00 blade key will start the truck twice for a couple seconds, then die. After the third attempt it will no longer crank. If your going to try that, just make sure you crank long enough for it to start, because you only have two tries to verify it starts. The little round security light should be on in the cluster after that. A programmed fob will be required to start it the next time, or you can leave the programmed key in the run position (put a charger on it) for 45 minutes to reset.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I used to make those replacement programed keys at an ACE HW I managed. They can quit for no reason at any time. Then I could program them again and they'd be fine.
The store owner had one of them for his F150 that was 6 mos old and quit. I reprogrammed it and several years later it still works (he's my neighbor so I'd hear about it if it quit).

 

[Wayne M.]

I’m doubting it’s the key. Like Sag2 said, it wouldn’t crank. It was cranking, right Motorhead? The two things I can think of that’ll surely cause a crank/ no start would be not enough rail pressure, and a loss of crank reference. Other things like electrical issues like bad grounds and harness problems could do it too. these things likely wouldn’t cause a DTC either.
The best thing that could happen now would be for it to quit again and stay quit long enough to get a diagnosis.

 

[DonFitzwater]

no start would be not enough rail pressure,

Nearly every 3rd gen I've run into with a crank/no start was fuel related. Some with a dead lift pump and some with worn out injectors.

 

[Wayne M.]

Nearly every 3rd gen I've run into with a crank/no start was fuel related. Some with a dead lift pump and some with worn out injectors.

Exactly.

 

[Motorhead]

Nearly every 3rd gen I've run into with a crank/no start was fuel related. Some with a dead lift pump and some with worn out injectors.

Only 80,000 miles on it. It seems to crank longer than my manual trans 2007 before it starts. Thats why I also asked about re-torquing the cross over tubes.

I’m doubting it’s the key. Like Sag2 said, it wouldn’t crank. It was cranking, right Motorhead? The two things I can think of that’ll surely cause a crank/ no start would be not enough rail pressure, and a loss of crank reference. Other things like electrical issues like bad grounds and harness problems could do it too. these things likely wouldn’t cause a DTC either.
The best thing that could happen now would be for it to quit again and stay quit long enough to get a diagnosis.

Wayne, it did crank but no fire. New batteries. Hasn't done it since. I told him to use the OE key and keep the non OE key as the spare.

 

[Ozymandias]

Re-torque the tubes, that can easy be done in 10 Minutes. Then we move on to more difficult solutions.

CKP and CPS can be checked with wiTech or similar uf they deliver a proper signal while cranking.