2006 5.9 CTD stranded me...

[BRBoling]

Truck is a 4WD quad cab LB SRW 2500 auto with 192k on the odometer. FASS fuel pump installed, original injectors, & starter. K&N filter, 4” turbo back exhaust, otherwise 100% stock, never modded. Original trans just got serviced literally one week ago and is in good shape per my mechanic. Recently replaced the water pump and alternator. Truck has NEVER EVER stranded me until two weeks ago, when the alternator took a dump. Got that replaced. Now the truck stranded me again last night, had a $440 bill for a 150 mi tow. This truck is my daily driver, like it has been the last 13 years. I bought it new, this is a one owner truck! Here are the details and symptoms of the situation:

The initial event was driving down the road 70 mph felt a strong thud seemingly in the drivetrain not sure exactly the source. I immediately heard a beep from the ECU and the check engine light came on immediately too. No power loss and we continued on down the road. We did stop at the auto parts store to check the check engine light code. The Only code was P2509.

I started the truck three or four times through the course of the next 1.5 hours, and it shifted and ran just fine. Get back on the freeway after some deliberation, gamble did not pay off LOL

10 minutes later 70 mph The truck seem to lose power and shutter. I took it out of gear manually let it idle. I revved it a few times as I was coasting. Did so fine. Put the truck back in drive manually and not less than five seconds later the engine shut off the lights on the dash were strangely flashy and from there I simply coasted to a stop. Tuck will not start but turns over fine. Battery charge seem fine. Gauges all were normal during the whole process until the end when it shut off and a few dash symbols were flickering.

Any ideas and help would be appreciated. Thank you!
Blake in Puyallup, WA

 

[petersonj]

The following information from the Internet may benefit you. You may be able check some of the potential causes yourself. Hope this helps.

- John

Special note for Dodge/Ram Cummins diesel owners: There is a technical service bulletin (TSB), number 18-001-07 that may apply to your 2006-older truck that will fix it. The fix for that bulletin is to reprogram the PCM.

Symptoms of a P2509 engine code may include.

• Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination with P2509 DTC set
• Hard to start or failure to start
• Tachometer may fluctuate between 500 to 700 rpm when idling cold
• Check gauges light may illuminate and voltmeter displays 11 volts or less
• Truck may cut off while driving
• Additional codes P2502 - charging system error and P2503 - charging system output low may accompany the code P2509

The causes for this DTC may include:

• Battery failure
• Poor connection at the batteries
• Alternator is either overcharging or undercharging
• Large voltage drop through loose or corroded cables
• Electrical clutch fan short to ground
• Bad connection at ECM
• Leaking diode
• Battery + positive shorted to ground or other circuits
• Open or return ground circuit

 

[p-Bar]

How old are batteries? Check Ground on both batteries especially the driver side one. Clean all Battery connections

 

[Ozymandias]

Disconnect the fan clutch at the lower edge of the radiator, disconnect this it will run but set another DTC according to what Cerberusiam said.
A bad fan clutch sets all sorts off DTC and can shut down an engine.

 

[BRBoling]

How old are batteries? Check Ground on both batteries especially the driver side one. Clean all Battery connections

Thanks guys, batteries are older so I will get on those, might even replace em. Voltage this am was 12.2 each

 

[Ozymandias]

12.2 is as dead as Osama.

 

[BRBoling]

12.2 is as dead as Osama.

But why would it not start even tho it turns / cranks over?

 

[Ozymandias]

To crank is 11 enough but not for all electronic systems, these trucks have all kind of problems with just slightly bad batterys.
A full battery shows 12.8-13V after a night on the parking lot.

The best you can do to your batterys is - ignore the WTS light and just crank it over, these unnecessary grid heater cycles do really harm the batterys, especially on a vehicle thats doin short rides.

 

[BRBoling]

To crank is 11 enough but not for all electronic systems, these trucks have all kind of problems with just slightly bad batterys.
A full battery shows 12.8-13V after a night on the parking lot.

The best you can do to your batterys is - ignore the WTS light and just crank it over, these unnecessary grid heater cycles do really harm the batterys, especially on a vehicle thats doin short rides.

Copy thanks guys stay tuned

 

[JR]

If you cranked the engine excessively and then took a voltage reading I'd expect a low reading. Best bet is get a good slow, extended charge on them, check electrolyte level and do a load test after they've sat for a bit to determine their health.

 

[BRBoling]

Replaced the batteries, truck started right up and runs and shifts fine. I only drove it around the block. The check engine light is still on. Should I delete it or let it ride?

 

[p-Bar]

Delete it. It shouldn't come back. These trucks are hard on batteries due to the glow plugs as mentioned above. I bought the crappy interstates from Costco took them back at 3 years for some fresh ones. Good thing under full replacement warranty.

 

[JR]

I wouldn't venture too far from home for a while.

 

[BRBoling]

Delete it. It shouldn't come back. These trucks are hard on batteries due to the glow plugs as mentioned above. I bought the crappy interstates from Costco took them back at 3 years for some fresh ones. Good thing under full replacement warranty.

. Well scheit, those are the ones I bought - Costco. I’ll be sure to keep the receipt.

 

[BRBoling]

I wouldn't venture too far from home for a while.

What I was thinking. I will add one more tidbit - which is that when I went to replace the batteries, the tightening bolt/ nut on the negative side of the passenger battery was loose as a goose. I blame that on the mechanic who worked on my truck less than ten days ago. I bet that didn’t help my situation. The cable was pretty tight on the terminal, but still.

 

[p-Bar]

. Well scheit, those are the ones I bought - Costco. I’ll be sure to keep the receipt.

Dont worry they are cheap and they don't test when you return them. Receipt is in the system so don't worry about losing it. They are a good deal all the way around.

 

[BRBoling]

Dont worry they are cheap and they don't test when you return them. Receipt is in the system so don't worry about losing it. They are a good deal all the way around.

To close the loop on this one. The failure was a combination of weak batteries and the pass side neg terminal not being properly clamped down (mistake made by the last tech who worked on my car). I actually think the latter was a bigger factor, but in any case, replaced batteries, and about 5 or so starts later all codes gone and engine purrs perfectly, just like it always has!!!! The shop that worked on my truck last offered to pay my huge tow bill! (Since I just got the truck back from them 3 days before the breakdown). Cool they stepped up to make it right. There is still good in this world, folks! Thanks to all who chimed in on this thread.