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2006 Dodge CTD Oil Change and Fuel Filter Questions

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Transitioned from a 1999 to a 2006 Dodge CTD and noted that the 2006 oil filter is located in an even more tight spot than the 1999. Additionally, the fuel filter canister seems a little different.



**Question 1: Any tips on how to effectively remove the 2006 oil filter within its tight confines. (attack it from underneath).



On my 1999, there was enough room to get a Oil Filter Wrench that looked like channel locks to remove the filter.





**Question 2: Is the 2006 fuel filter removal procedure any different than that of the 1999? (drain, unplug water sensor, remove canister).



I notice that the fuel filter only appears to have one large O-ring verses 2-O-rings on the 1999.



Gonna hopefully do the above maintenance with Geno's Garage supplied items this Sunday afternoon.



Thanks in advance for any hints! Oo.
 
I've found...

I've found that my 06 mega cab is much easier to service than my 99.



On the 99, the oil filter is removed from the top (cant be removed from the bottom) and must be tilted a bit (unless you take everything out of the way) and a spill is risked. On the 06, the filter is easily removed from the bottom and just comes straight down into the dump pan.



On the 99 the fuel filter must be drained, removed from the bottom and removed through all of the stuff thats in the way. Once you change the filter, you have to refill the "cup" and maneuver it back into place without spilling the fuel. On the 06, you just drain the canister (or not) unscrew the lid, change the filter, refill (if applicable) screw the lid back on and off you go.



Good luck on your service!

Craig
 
make sure you cycle the ignition a few times to prime the fuel filter... dont run the truck, just run the pump a few times or it will be hard too start
 
'06 oil change.



Real easy (easier than this sounds)



Get a milk crate. stand on it and first disconnect the air intake/map sensor connector. Stick the end out of the way thru the enging lift hole.



Using a orange nut driver (7mm), disconnect both ends of the blak air intake tube (goes from airtbox to turbo). set it out of the way.



Filter is right there. No angling/tilting to get to it.
 
I have just learned the last 2 oil changes that if I let the oil drain for 30 min before I attack the oil filter, enough oil has left the filter so I don't spill a drop. I used to use a plastic zip lock bag around it to catch the oil, then switched to the blue cup sold by Genos. Now, just enjoy an adult beverage or vacuum stuff out before I change the filter. I used to use the filter wrench from Genos but that didn't last too long. Now I use this claw looking thing that goes on a ratchet and extensions that I got from Sears and it works amazing on all my vehicles, not just my truck.
 
a lot of guys take a plastic liter bottle cut at the top slipped over the a loosened filter to keep the oil from spilling. I like a challenge and don't.
 
* Get the motor hot.

* Remove the turbo inlet hose from the air cleaner to the turb

* Loosen (only) the the oil filter from the top using the wrench of your choice.

* Let the oil drain overnight



The next day when you go to remove the oil filter from the top the oil level will be below the sealing surface allowing a dripless removal.



If your 06 has had the latest reflash you will not need to cycle the key to prime the filter. My 05 has the latest flash, and I notice the in tank fuel pump runs the minute you turn on the key and stays on.



Mac:cool:
 
Everyone has great advice on here.

My opinion for filters... .
Baldwin PF7977 fuel filter. It is the best filter for the OEM canister. 2um nominal and 5um absolute. .

The best oil filter is either the Donaldson ELF7349 or Amsoil EaO80. Exact same filter media inside.

You can go to A Parts Depot.com and order four Donaldson oil filters and two Baldwin fuel filters (mentioned above) and it will be cheaper than Geno's and you get better filtration.

There is no need to fiddle around with removing extra stuff just to change the oil filter. It all can be done straight up from underneath. Get a cam-style wrench.

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Oil Change and Filter within an Hour...NO mess

Thanks for all the tips... used a little of everyone's advise. What I ended up doing is start engine, drain warm oil, and attack the filter using a long socket extension and a Lisle End Cap from Geno's..... FRICK'N RETARD :eek: who did the last oil change, barely screwed on the filter, so it came off easy. FUEL Filter was easy with a partial drain of fuel and remove filter... ... FRICK'N RETARD #@$%! who did the last change didn't use the O-ring and probably didn't change the filter for near 50,000 miles if that... . filter was black with dirt!



Thanks again for all the advise. :D
 
I've found over the years, to avoid an oily mess when removing the oil filter, spiking teh filter with a punch, making 2 holes in the bottom of it, allows the old oil to flow right out and into the catch pan. It takes a little longer, but there is no chance of spilling old, black oil all over the place when the filter is unscrewed to be removed.
 
If you remove the filter from the top side, you run the risk of not having to change your shirt or clean the garage floor from dripping oil. If you want, you could put a glad bag/condom over the filter but it wont burp if it's removed slowly, so not real necessary. Do the filter change from a creeper (or rack underneath) and ...



Removing it from the underside with a clamp and extension reminds me of those afternoons at the state fair cleaning out porta-pottys from underneath. Usually there is that window of inactivity... . sometimes it just dumps on you.
 
I use a freezer bag around the filter while removing. I've spilled exactly one drop in six years. I also buy my filters from Napa. They're Wix.
 
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