2006 Driveshaft is a non-service item

[TowPro]

MoparDave is right. You don't need to get it red hot, even a propane torch will heat it up enough and the plastic will start coming out of the hole they use to inject it. You might have to heat it a couple times as your pressing it. I always used a socket and a vice to pop the old ones out.

the new U-joints had a clip machined into the cup on the inside. once you pressed the cup in, you slide the clip on, then move it out a little so the clip has pressure on it.

But they might not make those U-joints as a replacment for the dodge yet?
Someone else said there was groves machined into the outer edge of the driveshaft hole that the cup presses into?

I just checked Napa online and Autozone, both show no u-joints yet for the 06. Sooner or later the company that makes U-joints for the aftermarket will be making them.

 

[HBarlow]

I returned to the driveline shop this a. m. and inspected the driveshaft myself in better light and talked to them again. The shaft does have snap ring grooves. The driveline shop has no u-joints or yolks for '06 trucks and no parts catalogs for yolks or u-joints. They still maintain that the transmission output shaft is a different size on my '06. They still believe that the shaft size is smaller and the OD of the yolk is the same or similar size to earlier trucks but the ID is much smaller making the yolk much thicker. A former Dodge dealer transmission tech friend looked at the driveshaft today and agreed with them.



NAPA has no parts for '06 driveshaft components.



Dodge dealers have no u-joints or other driveline parts for '06 trucks. Dealers replace entire driveshafts if parts are damaged or worn.



I talked again with the machinist at the shop. He told me again that heating the driveshaft ends will cause distortion. He said u-joints will not fit properly after heating. He said he could cold press the u-joints out but was almost certain that once they were out other than paying a labor charge I would accomplish nothing.



I repeat: NO replacement universal joints, slip splines, or yolks are currently available. If anyone has actual part numbers of components that fit '06 not '03 - '05 trucks please post them.



Harvey

 

[sag2]

Send me your vin and I will look up the correct parts. StarParts lists the yoke, U-Joints, clips bearings and everything to repair your shaft. With the VIN we can make sure you get the right numbers.

 

[HBarlow]

Send me your vin and I will look up the correct parts. StarParts lists the yoke, U-Joints, clips bearings and everything to repair your shaft. With the VIN we can make sure you get the right numbers.

Sag2,



That would be fantastic if you have a way to source the correct parts.



Here is my VIN: 3D7ML48C06GXXXXXX.



VIN removed from the internet on edit after parts numbers received.



Thanks,

Harvey

 

[hammersley]

Great quote.........

"It looked like something made in a Communist Chinese wheelbarrow factory. " The beancounters are having a field day aren't they??????

 

[sag2]

For everyone else, this is specific to his VIN so don't use it for your trucks.



Drive line 52123138AB

Flange 5183074AA

Yoke 5183076AA

U Joint pkg 5093376AB (3 required)

Snap Ring 5127828AA (4 required)

Center Brg 5183075AA

Boot 5093380AA (between shafts)

Yoke 5183076AA, 5183924AA, (rear shaft to front shaft)

Flange 5183074AA (Rear shaft to diff)

 

[HBarlow]

Sag2,



Thank you very much for your research and assistance. I am grateful to you. I will contact an internet parts supplier MOPAR4LESS this a. m. if they are open on Saturday or Monday if not. If I can do you a favor please ask.



I can certainly understand why the local driveline shop and NAPA don't yet have parts for an '06 Ram but cannot understand why the technician and service writer at the dealer in Kingman, AZ and a transmission specialist from another one here in my hometown told me no parts are available and I'd have to replace the driveshaft. Is it, in your opinion, because the joints are held in place by injected plastic and they don't have the tools or skills to remove the plastic without damaging the shaft?



Your normal signature normally contains the line, "fixing them and loving it" and you have access to STAR parts catalogs. Does that mean you work in a Dodge dealership? How do you and your dealeship repair drivelines with injected plastic holding parts in place?



Thanks again for your help.



Harvey

 

[RDusch]

PRECISION Part # 330A from Rock auto
13. 61 each

Note: the same joint is used on years 03 - 06 auto trucks

Rick

 

[steved]

... dealeship repair drivelines with injected plastic holding parts in place?

Harvey

While I can't speak for Sag2; when I had issues with mine, they simply handed me a complete new front shaft. But I told them the driveline shop told me it (the entire shaft) needed replaced. They didn't argue and simply ordered me a new shaft and I returned the old one (like a core?).



steved

 

[HBarlow]

I just got off the phone with MOPAR4LESS. According to the internet parts person who, BTW, was a very sharp woman named "K", all the parts are available from a warehouse in Milwaukee, WI. The bad news is they will take approximately one week to get to me.



Thanks to Sag2 for providing the part numbers and to all who contributed to a solution.



This thread proved once again... ... you have to ask the right person to get the correct answers. I got a lot of bad info until I asked here. Thanks to Sag2 I eventually got the correct answers.



Harvey

 

[Andersonville]

I am experiencing the same thing. I got vibration between 20-50 mph and fluid leaking out of the back of the trans and the front of the differential. I haven't been anywhere to get it diagnosed yet. I drove the truck 60 miles and pulled it up on a curb and crawled underneath. U joints didn't feel hot just normal warm. Last 6 of my VIN6G181280. 106K. I tow for a living too. Any good shops near Ashburn GA? Thanks

 

[AKaiser]

I talked again with the machinist at the shop. He told me again that heating the driveshaft ends will cause distortion. He said u-joints will not fit properly after heating. He said he could cold press the u-joints out but was almost certain that once they were out other than paying a labor charge I would accomplish nothing.

Well, any machinist worth his salt should know that the key word is "judicious" and with the judicious application of heat to the proper component (i. e. the plastic) the driveshaft shouldn't warp. We're not talking about heating to red-hot here.

 

[AmmoVan]

I have replaced a lot of U-joints with the plastic filler. Chevy loves the stuff. I know some of the older corvets had the filler in every u-joint. I replace 8 u-joints (independent rear suspension). I never had a problem with damaging the driveshaft from the heat. I did it at my house with a small plumbers tourch, I bought a Walmart and a large vice (with wood inserts to protect the metal). Like everyone else you don't have to heat the metal until it is glowing, just enough to melt the plastic. I would find a new driveshaft shop. I think they want to sell you an expensive custom drive shaft for no reason. If I had to replace my u-joints today I would still do it the same way with a torch and a vise.

 

[HBarlow]

Andersonville,



My problem turned out to be the bushing in the tail housing of the transmission missing in action. The bushing, which looks like a a 4" piece of soft metal paper towel roll and is supposed to be pressed into place at the rear of the housing was out of place. Apparently the driveshaft yolk pushed it out of its pressed in location. When that happened the output shaft was free to wobble and took out the seal. I suspect there is something not quite right with our trucks that causes it. It might be a heavy load carried on the rear springs which I consider too soft. I get a lot of rebound over dips with a heavy fifth wheel on. If the rear is depressed then rebound up and down again it might cause the yolk to move in and out of the bushing and push it out of place.



Harvey